diff --git a/README.md b/README.md index e69de29..ed2378f 100644 --- a/README.md +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,26 @@ +Repairs for 2018. + +AppleMacbook 2010: A battery had blown up inside, and I removed the battery. +Just a quick note about putting the cables back (microscopes and tweezers help) + +Bose Cinemate: A repair from Craigslist. A Generation 1 Bose Cinemate, would +not turn on (light stays red). Turned out the remote control IR receiver failed. Easy repair. +Also covered by others online. + +Harbor Freight Bauer Drill - A drill made to fail, (surprise) failed. Attempts +to replace the Power MosFETs inside. + +HP Pavilion 15 cs0053 - + +NYNE Bass - Water (rain) caused a chip inside to go into a safety mode. It was +necessary to dismantle the device and turn it off, turn it back on. Success! + +Sony PVM 14M4U - A television that was displaying moving lines. Op Amp negative +voltage rail is off by 5-7 volts. + +Weller WSD51 - Soldering Iron suddenly failed. Under warranty so covered by +Weller. May have been the iron's fragile temperature probe wire which was +damaged by rough usage. + + + diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/SonyPVM_14M4U_Repair.pdf b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/SonyPVM_14M4U_Repair.pdf new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e05fa79 Binary files /dev/null and b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/SonyPVM_14M4U_Repair.pdf differ diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/.11.tex.swp b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/.11.tex.swp new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7d5c73 --- /dev/null +++ b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/.11.tex.swp @@ -0,0 +1,94 @@ +\documentclass[11pt]{article} +%Gummi|065|=) +\usepackage{graphicx} +\usepackage{caption} +\title{\textbf{Sony PVM 14M4U Repair}} +\author{Steak Electronics} +\date{} +\begin{document} + +\maketitle +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1101.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Barely User Service-able!} + +\section{Start} + +Video 1105.webm shows the problem. Lines moving both vertically (obvious) and horizontally (less obvious, looks diagnolly). + +The second problem, which was more of a problem at the start, was disassembly, and then putting it in a way that it could be repaired. Video from botnet tube (Sony PVM-8041Q Monitor Teardown and Repair-iyJDam0blYA) Shows a repair of a smaller 10 inch model, and you can see, the user is able to easily access parts of the board to repair. However, the 14 inch models are not as simple. The board with all the processing on it (the A board), is on the bottom of the chassis, and to take that out... well video 1104.webm shows what I had to do to get access to the board, while it's powered on. + +\section{CAUTION} +The tube is extremely damgerous, and I get nervous anytime I go near it. Do NOT try this if you aren't careful. There is also 600V rails on the bottom of board A where the hi voltage (read flyback) transformer is. The only thing in our favor, is that there IS a service manual with some explanations of where everything is. The problem, as I already mentioned, is that actually servicing this device is damn near impossible. + +\section{Repair} +At first I suspected capacitors had gone bad - due to the failure mode. When it originally failed, it had been working, then suddenly failed. I used an ESR meter but was unable to find any bad caps. This ESR meter is untested, so it's either that there are no bad caps, the bad caps have failed in a way besides high ESR, or that the esr meter doesn't actually work. I do not have a capacitance meter. + +I poked around a bit, but after a few minutes, remembered that voltages should always be checked somewhere early in the repair. Lucky for me, a -15v voltage is showing -25 volts. It being a negative voltage (in my limited knowledge) points to it being for an op amp, and op amps that don't have the right voltage might fail the H and V sync. I will try to fix that and hope there is no other damage. + +\begin{center} +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1106.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{The Rail is listed as -15V...} + +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1107.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Fault. Later on I moved to a Fluke 27 for this, so please bear with the low quality DMM} +\end{center} + +I looked around, and the output from the PWM is fed into a transformer, where it's rectified into a number of different voltages. The service manual tells all of this. + +\includegraphics[scale=0.6]{../pics/powerboardschematicblockdiagram.jpg} +\captionof{figure}{PWM to Transformer to Zener} +It appears that the -15V rail (as well as the +7V rail, both have voltages slightly off. I thought at first, the diodes from the block diagram were zeners (being backwards) but it looks like instead, the problem is before the transformer. I'll have to delve a little deeper to see what is giving an incorrect value. + +\vspace{0.2in} +\section {Day 2} + +I did some more work on this, but was unable to determine the fault. I think that the fault is before the transformer, but I can't figure out which component has failed. There are not many electrolytic caps before the transformer, and I don't have equipment to check capacitance of other caps. The rail that is marked as 110V before the transformer reads 130, which 'might' be acceptable (my meter is also not true RMS). 110V would refer to Japan's 110V, and for it to be higher in US is expected. Add that to my non true RMS meter, and the error is not glaringly bad. On the other hand, the -22 Volts on the (spec'd) -15V rail definitely is out of spec. I did try a few things, such as isolating the Mains input (i.e. cutting traces on a few spots, and caps) before it entered into the main Rectifier, but I did not find anything conclusive. +\vspace{0.2in} + +What I know is that there are two rails that are off, the 7V and -15V rails. The 7V rail doesn't appear to be used. I've decided to add in an additional -15V regulator using an LM337, to output 1.5A of -15V. I tried adding another cap on C629, the one of two electrolytics on the -15V rail, but no difference. There are two paths the -15V rail takes in from the mains. One is from the PWM pin B, which has a resistor divider go to S and then down to the pin of the transformer for -15V. One of these resistors might be underspec. +\vspace{0.2in} +\begin{center} +\includegraphics[scale=0.6]{../pics/15vrail.jpg} +\captionof{figure}{-15V Rail} +\end{center} + +R605 Measures 380, which may be right (due to it being on board when measuring. it IS close). R604 is .4K (390). Supposed to be 1.2K. But, measuring on board... R607 is .4K again. Seems measuring these in circuit is a losing game. C616 is not a short. R610 is 8.1K. Seems high. It's value should be no higher than 2.2K... Looks like this is a schematic error, as R608 and R609 are the same value resistors and both are similar readings. R610 is in spec. About all I can think, is pulling R604, R605, and R607 and measuring them. +\vspace{0.2in} + +I'm a bit confused whether the test probe measurements are AC or DC. It says 110, which is after a rectifier, (so DC) but I see AC also on this line, and as well, it's going through a transformer, so it must be AC that is coupling, but the AC is 22V, while the DC is 135V or so. Perhaps the fault is near the bridge diode, and with the coupling capacitors nearby... I tried removing them before, but I don't have equipment to test their values. I didn't see any shorts. I give up - I will put in the LM337 and call it a day. + +\vspace{0.2in} + +One thing that is interesting, is that I really shouldn't need to troubleshoot this at all. This kind of information should be found on a forum or document provided by the manufacturer. Surely they have had this failure mode on other Televisions. A true shortcoming of capitalism, and disposable electronics. It does not endear me to this company in any way. + +\vspace{0.2in} +\subsection{Day 3} + +I managed to get an LM337 tested and built up on perfboard. As I was soldering wires to the machine, (while unplugged) some caps discharged back into the 115 VOut of the STRS3115 chip as I accidentally moved the probe the wrong way. Oops. Too bad there wasn't a diode there. Now the chip won't output 115V DC. Upon turning the Television on, you can hear the tube attempt to start (sounds like a high voltage ping, which fails to complete, then repeatedly pings - see video). Not enough voltage. + +\vspace{0.2in} + +Good news is, a new chip should fix the 115V rail. There is nothing else on that rail that would've failed (although I can't speak for downstream), so a reasonably straightforward fix. The Television remains on the bench another few days. And some more good news, the LM337 seems to output a near clean -15V. It will be interesting to see what the repaired voltage rail does to the tv output once the 115V rail is back in order. + +\section{Conclusion} + +This was my first Television repair. After I replaced the new chip which I had shorted out earlier, I attempted to turn it on, but the tube would only start for a brief moment before turning itself off (after what seems to be the opto-coupler relay on the power board switched on). At this point, out of the need to clean my desk, I threw in the towel, and tore down the device for what I wanted, giving the rest to recyclers. All in all, it was a learning experience for televisions, and I'm not afraid of CRTs (maybe I should be, though) as much as I was... The lessons to learn in this experience are: +\begin{itemize} +\item Be careful of multiple grounds on power supplies like this +\item Fuses are good. Without a fuse on this, I would've burned something, my probe likely. +\item Be especially careful when checking voltages in a device like this. Any caps that are charged, will release a shock into other lines if you slip while probing, and that can be the end of your repair right there. Probe as little as possible. +\end{itemize} +Upon watching other videos online \footnote{Example being EEVblog \#378, where he attemps a repair of a Yamaha Stereo Amp.} I noticed a few other aspects which would've been useful for my setup (in terms of safety), and also one for repair success. +\begin{itemize} +\item Use an isolation transformer for the device under test +\item Use isolated probes (or make them from the math function and two probes with the ground leads disconnected... Look online if you are not familiar with this). +\item Use a GFCI on the outlet where the device is connected. (I need one of these for my lab bench). +\end{itemize} + +And the one note about repair success is, that if I systematically took all (or some of the early ones perhaps, or the ones in the target 15V rail) of the capacitors, and was able to measure with both ESR and a Capacitance meter - which I don't have - I might've been able to find a fault there. Not just electrolytics, but other caps, and of course as Michael Geier wrote in his book on diagnosing electronics, not just caps but anything can fail. TV Try \#1 was not a success but there's no telling what will happen next time. + +\vspace{0.2in} +Onto the next repair! + + +\end{document} diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/1.tex b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/1.tex new file mode 100644 index 0000000..feac6b1 --- /dev/null +++ b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/1.tex @@ -0,0 +1,22 @@ +\documentclass[11pt]{article} +%Gummi|065|=) +\title{\textbf{Sony PVM 14M4U Repair}} +\author{Steak Electronics} +\date{} +\begin{document} + +\maketitle + +\section{Start} + +Video 1105.webm shows the problem. Lines moving both vertically (obvious) and horizontally (less obvious, looks diagnolly). + +The second problem, which was more of a problem at the start, was disassembly, and then putting it in a way that it could be repaired. Video from botnet Sony PVM-8041Q Monitor Teardown and Repair-iyJDam0blYA) Shows a repair of a smaller 10 inch model, and you can see, the user is able to easily access parts of the board to repair. However, the 14 inch models are not nearly as simple to access. The board with all the processing on it (the A board), is on the bottom of the chassis, and to take that out... well video 1104.webm shows what I had to do to get access to the board, while it's powered on. + +\section{Repair} +I poked around a bit, but after a few minutes, remembered that voltages should always be checked somewhere early in the repair. Lucky for me, a -15v voltage is showing -25 volts. It being a negative voltage points (in my limited knowledge) to it being for an op amp, and op amps that don't have the right voltage might fail the H and V sync. I will try to fix that and hope there is no other damage. + +\section{CAUTION} +The tube is extremely damgerous, and I get nervous anytime I go near it. Do NOT try this if you aren't careful. There is also 600V rails on the bottom of board A where the hi voltage (read flyback) transformer is. The only thing in our favor, is that there IS a service manual with some explanations of where everything is. The only problem, as I already mentioned, is that actually servicing this device is near impossible. + +\end{document} diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/10.tex b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/10.tex new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7d5c73 --- /dev/null +++ b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/10.tex @@ -0,0 +1,94 @@ +\documentclass[11pt]{article} +%Gummi|065|=) +\usepackage{graphicx} +\usepackage{caption} +\title{\textbf{Sony PVM 14M4U Repair}} +\author{Steak Electronics} +\date{} +\begin{document} + +\maketitle +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1101.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Barely User Service-able!} + +\section{Start} + +Video 1105.webm shows the problem. Lines moving both vertically (obvious) and horizontally (less obvious, looks diagnolly). + +The second problem, which was more of a problem at the start, was disassembly, and then putting it in a way that it could be repaired. Video from botnet tube (Sony PVM-8041Q Monitor Teardown and Repair-iyJDam0blYA) Shows a repair of a smaller 10 inch model, and you can see, the user is able to easily access parts of the board to repair. However, the 14 inch models are not as simple. The board with all the processing on it (the A board), is on the bottom of the chassis, and to take that out... well video 1104.webm shows what I had to do to get access to the board, while it's powered on. + +\section{CAUTION} +The tube is extremely damgerous, and I get nervous anytime I go near it. Do NOT try this if you aren't careful. There is also 600V rails on the bottom of board A where the hi voltage (read flyback) transformer is. The only thing in our favor, is that there IS a service manual with some explanations of where everything is. The problem, as I already mentioned, is that actually servicing this device is damn near impossible. + +\section{Repair} +At first I suspected capacitors had gone bad - due to the failure mode. When it originally failed, it had been working, then suddenly failed. I used an ESR meter but was unable to find any bad caps. This ESR meter is untested, so it's either that there are no bad caps, the bad caps have failed in a way besides high ESR, or that the esr meter doesn't actually work. I do not have a capacitance meter. + +I poked around a bit, but after a few minutes, remembered that voltages should always be checked somewhere early in the repair. Lucky for me, a -15v voltage is showing -25 volts. It being a negative voltage (in my limited knowledge) points to it being for an op amp, and op amps that don't have the right voltage might fail the H and V sync. I will try to fix that and hope there is no other damage. + +\begin{center} +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1106.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{The Rail is listed as -15V...} + +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1107.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Fault. Later on I moved to a Fluke 27 for this, so please bear with the low quality DMM} +\end{center} + +I looked around, and the output from the PWM is fed into a transformer, where it's rectified into a number of different voltages. The service manual tells all of this. + +\includegraphics[scale=0.6]{../pics/powerboardschematicblockdiagram.jpg} +\captionof{figure}{PWM to Transformer to Zener} +It appears that the -15V rail (as well as the +7V rail, both have voltages slightly off. I thought at first, the diodes from the block diagram were zeners (being backwards) but it looks like instead, the problem is before the transformer. I'll have to delve a little deeper to see what is giving an incorrect value. + +\vspace{0.2in} +\section {Day 2} + +I did some more work on this, but was unable to determine the fault. I think that the fault is before the transformer, but I can't figure out which component has failed. There are not many electrolytic caps before the transformer, and I don't have equipment to check capacitance of other caps. The rail that is marked as 110V before the transformer reads 130, which 'might' be acceptable (my meter is also not true RMS). 110V would refer to Japan's 110V, and for it to be higher in US is expected. Add that to my non true RMS meter, and the error is not glaringly bad. On the other hand, the -22 Volts on the (spec'd) -15V rail definitely is out of spec. I did try a few things, such as isolating the Mains input (i.e. cutting traces on a few spots, and caps) before it entered into the main Rectifier, but I did not find anything conclusive. +\vspace{0.2in} + +What I know is that there are two rails that are off, the 7V and -15V rails. The 7V rail doesn't appear to be used. I've decided to add in an additional -15V regulator using an LM337, to output 1.5A of -15V. I tried adding another cap on C629, the one of two electrolytics on the -15V rail, but no difference. There are two paths the -15V rail takes in from the mains. One is from the PWM pin B, which has a resistor divider go to S and then down to the pin of the transformer for -15V. One of these resistors might be underspec. +\vspace{0.2in} +\begin{center} +\includegraphics[scale=0.6]{../pics/15vrail.jpg} +\captionof{figure}{-15V Rail} +\end{center} + +R605 Measures 380, which may be right (due to it being on board when measuring. it IS close). R604 is .4K (390). Supposed to be 1.2K. But, measuring on board... R607 is .4K again. Seems measuring these in circuit is a losing game. C616 is not a short. R610 is 8.1K. Seems high. It's value should be no higher than 2.2K... Looks like this is a schematic error, as R608 and R609 are the same value resistors and both are similar readings. R610 is in spec. About all I can think, is pulling R604, R605, and R607 and measuring them. +\vspace{0.2in} + +I'm a bit confused whether the test probe measurements are AC or DC. It says 110, which is after a rectifier, (so DC) but I see AC also on this line, and as well, it's going through a transformer, so it must be AC that is coupling, but the AC is 22V, while the DC is 135V or so. Perhaps the fault is near the bridge diode, and with the coupling capacitors nearby... I tried removing them before, but I don't have equipment to test their values. I didn't see any shorts. I give up - I will put in the LM337 and call it a day. + +\vspace{0.2in} + +One thing that is interesting, is that I really shouldn't need to troubleshoot this at all. This kind of information should be found on a forum or document provided by the manufacturer. Surely they have had this failure mode on other Televisions. A true shortcoming of capitalism, and disposable electronics. It does not endear me to this company in any way. + +\vspace{0.2in} +\subsection{Day 3} + +I managed to get an LM337 tested and built up on perfboard. As I was soldering wires to the machine, (while unplugged) some caps discharged back into the 115 VOut of the STRS3115 chip as I accidentally moved the probe the wrong way. Oops. Too bad there wasn't a diode there. Now the chip won't output 115V DC. Upon turning the Television on, you can hear the tube attempt to start (sounds like a high voltage ping, which fails to complete, then repeatedly pings - see video). Not enough voltage. + +\vspace{0.2in} + +Good news is, a new chip should fix the 115V rail. There is nothing else on that rail that would've failed (although I can't speak for downstream), so a reasonably straightforward fix. The Television remains on the bench another few days. And some more good news, the LM337 seems to output a near clean -15V. It will be interesting to see what the repaired voltage rail does to the tv output once the 115V rail is back in order. + +\section{Conclusion} + +This was my first Television repair. After I replaced the new chip which I had shorted out earlier, I attempted to turn it on, but the tube would only start for a brief moment before turning itself off (after what seems to be the opto-coupler relay on the power board switched on). At this point, out of the need to clean my desk, I threw in the towel, and tore down the device for what I wanted, giving the rest to recyclers. All in all, it was a learning experience for televisions, and I'm not afraid of CRTs (maybe I should be, though) as much as I was... The lessons to learn in this experience are: +\begin{itemize} +\item Be careful of multiple grounds on power supplies like this +\item Fuses are good. Without a fuse on this, I would've burned something, my probe likely. +\item Be especially careful when checking voltages in a device like this. Any caps that are charged, will release a shock into other lines if you slip while probing, and that can be the end of your repair right there. Probe as little as possible. +\end{itemize} +Upon watching other videos online \footnote{Example being EEVblog \#378, where he attemps a repair of a Yamaha Stereo Amp.} I noticed a few other aspects which would've been useful for my setup (in terms of safety), and also one for repair success. +\begin{itemize} +\item Use an isolation transformer for the device under test +\item Use isolated probes (or make them from the math function and two probes with the ground leads disconnected... Look online if you are not familiar with this). +\item Use a GFCI on the outlet where the device is connected. (I need one of these for my lab bench). +\end{itemize} + +And the one note about repair success is, that if I systematically took all (or some of the early ones perhaps, or the ones in the target 15V rail) of the capacitors, and was able to measure with both ESR and a Capacitance meter - which I don't have - I might've been able to find a fault there. Not just electrolytics, but other caps, and of course as Michael Geier wrote in his book on diagnosing electronics, not just caps but anything can fail. TV Try \#1 was not a success but there's no telling what will happen next time. + +\vspace{0.2in} +Onto the next repair! + + +\end{document} diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/11.tex b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/11.tex new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7d5c73 --- /dev/null +++ b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/11.tex @@ -0,0 +1,94 @@ +\documentclass[11pt]{article} +%Gummi|065|=) +\usepackage{graphicx} +\usepackage{caption} +\title{\textbf{Sony PVM 14M4U Repair}} +\author{Steak Electronics} +\date{} +\begin{document} + +\maketitle +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1101.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Barely User Service-able!} + +\section{Start} + +Video 1105.webm shows the problem. Lines moving both vertically (obvious) and horizontally (less obvious, looks diagnolly). + +The second problem, which was more of a problem at the start, was disassembly, and then putting it in a way that it could be repaired. Video from botnet tube (Sony PVM-8041Q Monitor Teardown and Repair-iyJDam0blYA) Shows a repair of a smaller 10 inch model, and you can see, the user is able to easily access parts of the board to repair. However, the 14 inch models are not as simple. The board with all the processing on it (the A board), is on the bottom of the chassis, and to take that out... well video 1104.webm shows what I had to do to get access to the board, while it's powered on. + +\section{CAUTION} +The tube is extremely damgerous, and I get nervous anytime I go near it. Do NOT try this if you aren't careful. There is also 600V rails on the bottom of board A where the hi voltage (read flyback) transformer is. The only thing in our favor, is that there IS a service manual with some explanations of where everything is. The problem, as I already mentioned, is that actually servicing this device is damn near impossible. + +\section{Repair} +At first I suspected capacitors had gone bad - due to the failure mode. When it originally failed, it had been working, then suddenly failed. I used an ESR meter but was unable to find any bad caps. This ESR meter is untested, so it's either that there are no bad caps, the bad caps have failed in a way besides high ESR, or that the esr meter doesn't actually work. I do not have a capacitance meter. + +I poked around a bit, but after a few minutes, remembered that voltages should always be checked somewhere early in the repair. Lucky for me, a -15v voltage is showing -25 volts. It being a negative voltage (in my limited knowledge) points to it being for an op amp, and op amps that don't have the right voltage might fail the H and V sync. I will try to fix that and hope there is no other damage. + +\begin{center} +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1106.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{The Rail is listed as -15V...} + +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1107.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Fault. Later on I moved to a Fluke 27 for this, so please bear with the low quality DMM} +\end{center} + +I looked around, and the output from the PWM is fed into a transformer, where it's rectified into a number of different voltages. The service manual tells all of this. + +\includegraphics[scale=0.6]{../pics/powerboardschematicblockdiagram.jpg} +\captionof{figure}{PWM to Transformer to Zener} +It appears that the -15V rail (as well as the +7V rail, both have voltages slightly off. I thought at first, the diodes from the block diagram were zeners (being backwards) but it looks like instead, the problem is before the transformer. I'll have to delve a little deeper to see what is giving an incorrect value. + +\vspace{0.2in} +\section {Day 2} + +I did some more work on this, but was unable to determine the fault. I think that the fault is before the transformer, but I can't figure out which component has failed. There are not many electrolytic caps before the transformer, and I don't have equipment to check capacitance of other caps. The rail that is marked as 110V before the transformer reads 130, which 'might' be acceptable (my meter is also not true RMS). 110V would refer to Japan's 110V, and for it to be higher in US is expected. Add that to my non true RMS meter, and the error is not glaringly bad. On the other hand, the -22 Volts on the (spec'd) -15V rail definitely is out of spec. I did try a few things, such as isolating the Mains input (i.e. cutting traces on a few spots, and caps) before it entered into the main Rectifier, but I did not find anything conclusive. +\vspace{0.2in} + +What I know is that there are two rails that are off, the 7V and -15V rails. The 7V rail doesn't appear to be used. I've decided to add in an additional -15V regulator using an LM337, to output 1.5A of -15V. I tried adding another cap on C629, the one of two electrolytics on the -15V rail, but no difference. There are two paths the -15V rail takes in from the mains. One is from the PWM pin B, which has a resistor divider go to S and then down to the pin of the transformer for -15V. One of these resistors might be underspec. +\vspace{0.2in} +\begin{center} +\includegraphics[scale=0.6]{../pics/15vrail.jpg} +\captionof{figure}{-15V Rail} +\end{center} + +R605 Measures 380, which may be right (due to it being on board when measuring. it IS close). R604 is .4K (390). Supposed to be 1.2K. But, measuring on board... R607 is .4K again. Seems measuring these in circuit is a losing game. C616 is not a short. R610 is 8.1K. Seems high. It's value should be no higher than 2.2K... Looks like this is a schematic error, as R608 and R609 are the same value resistors and both are similar readings. R610 is in spec. About all I can think, is pulling R604, R605, and R607 and measuring them. +\vspace{0.2in} + +I'm a bit confused whether the test probe measurements are AC or DC. It says 110, which is after a rectifier, (so DC) but I see AC also on this line, and as well, it's going through a transformer, so it must be AC that is coupling, but the AC is 22V, while the DC is 135V or so. Perhaps the fault is near the bridge diode, and with the coupling capacitors nearby... I tried removing them before, but I don't have equipment to test their values. I didn't see any shorts. I give up - I will put in the LM337 and call it a day. + +\vspace{0.2in} + +One thing that is interesting, is that I really shouldn't need to troubleshoot this at all. This kind of information should be found on a forum or document provided by the manufacturer. Surely they have had this failure mode on other Televisions. A true shortcoming of capitalism, and disposable electronics. It does not endear me to this company in any way. + +\vspace{0.2in} +\subsection{Day 3} + +I managed to get an LM337 tested and built up on perfboard. As I was soldering wires to the machine, (while unplugged) some caps discharged back into the 115 VOut of the STRS3115 chip as I accidentally moved the probe the wrong way. Oops. Too bad there wasn't a diode there. Now the chip won't output 115V DC. Upon turning the Television on, you can hear the tube attempt to start (sounds like a high voltage ping, which fails to complete, then repeatedly pings - see video). Not enough voltage. + +\vspace{0.2in} + +Good news is, a new chip should fix the 115V rail. There is nothing else on that rail that would've failed (although I can't speak for downstream), so a reasonably straightforward fix. The Television remains on the bench another few days. And some more good news, the LM337 seems to output a near clean -15V. It will be interesting to see what the repaired voltage rail does to the tv output once the 115V rail is back in order. + +\section{Conclusion} + +This was my first Television repair. After I replaced the new chip which I had shorted out earlier, I attempted to turn it on, but the tube would only start for a brief moment before turning itself off (after what seems to be the opto-coupler relay on the power board switched on). At this point, out of the need to clean my desk, I threw in the towel, and tore down the device for what I wanted, giving the rest to recyclers. All in all, it was a learning experience for televisions, and I'm not afraid of CRTs (maybe I should be, though) as much as I was... The lessons to learn in this experience are: +\begin{itemize} +\item Be careful of multiple grounds on power supplies like this +\item Fuses are good. Without a fuse on this, I would've burned something, my probe likely. +\item Be especially careful when checking voltages in a device like this. Any caps that are charged, will release a shock into other lines if you slip while probing, and that can be the end of your repair right there. Probe as little as possible. +\end{itemize} +Upon watching other videos online \footnote{Example being EEVblog \#378, where he attemps a repair of a Yamaha Stereo Amp.} I noticed a few other aspects which would've been useful for my setup (in terms of safety), and also one for repair success. +\begin{itemize} +\item Use an isolation transformer for the device under test +\item Use isolated probes (or make them from the math function and two probes with the ground leads disconnected... Look online if you are not familiar with this). +\item Use a GFCI on the outlet where the device is connected. (I need one of these for my lab bench). +\end{itemize} + +And the one note about repair success is, that if I systematically took all (or some of the early ones perhaps, or the ones in the target 15V rail) of the capacitors, and was able to measure with both ESR and a Capacitance meter - which I don't have - I might've been able to find a fault there. Not just electrolytics, but other caps, and of course as Michael Geier wrote in his book on diagnosing electronics, not just caps but anything can fail. TV Try \#1 was not a success but there's no telling what will happen next time. + +\vspace{0.2in} +Onto the next repair! + + +\end{document} diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/2.tex b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/2.tex new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a008df7 --- /dev/null +++ b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/2.tex @@ -0,0 +1,35 @@ +\documentclass[11pt]{article} +%Gummi|065|=) +\usepackage{graphicx} +\usepackage{caption} +\title{\textbf{Sony PVM 14M4U Repair}} +\author{Steak Electronics} +\date{} +\begin{document} + +\maketitle +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1101.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Barely User Service-able!} + +\section{Start} + +Video 1105.webm shows the problem. Lines moving both vertically (obvious) and horizontally (less obvious, looks diagnolly). + +The second problem, which was more of a problem at the start, was disassembly, and then putting it in a way that it could be repaired. Video from botnet Sony PVM-8041Q Monitor Teardown and Repair-iyJDam0blYA) Shows a repair of a smaller 10 inch model, and you can see, the user is able to easily access parts of the board to repair. However, the 14 inch models are not nearly as simple to access. The board with all the processing on it (the A board), is on the bottom of the chassis, and to take that out... well video 1104.webm shows what I had to do to get access to the board, while it's powered on. + +\section{Repair} +At first I suspected capacitors had gone bad - due to the failure mode. When it originally failed, it had been working, then suddenly failed. I used an ESR meter but was unable to find any bad caps. This ESR meter is untested, so it's either that there are no bad caps, the bad caps have failed in a way besides high ESR, or that the esr meter doesn't actually work. + +I poked around a bit, but after a few minutes, remembered that voltages should always be checked somewhere early in the repair. Lucky for me, a -15v voltage is showing -25 volts. It being a negative voltage (in my limited knowledge) points to it being for an op amp, and op amps that don't have the right voltage might fail the H and V sync. I will try to fix that and hope there is no other damage. + + +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1106.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{-15V} + +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1107.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Fault!} + +\section{CAUTION} +The tube is extremely damgerous, and I get nervous anytime I go near it. Do NOT try this if you aren't careful. There is also 600V rails on the bottom of board A where the hi voltage (read flyback) transformer is. The only thing in our favor, is that there IS a service manual with some explanations of where everything is. The only problem, as I already mentioned, is that actually servicing this device is near impossible. + +\end{document} diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/3.tex b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/3.tex new file mode 100644 index 0000000..27fd8ce --- /dev/null +++ b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/3.tex @@ -0,0 +1,35 @@ +\documentclass[11pt]{article} +%Gummi|065|=) +\usepackage{graphicx} +\usepackage{caption} +\title{\textbf{Sony PVM 14M4U Repair}} +\author{Steak Electronics} +\date{} +\begin{document} + +\maketitle +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1101.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Barely User Service-able!} + +\section{Start} + +Video 1105.webm shows the problem. Lines moving both vertically (obvious) and horizontally (less obvious, looks diagnolly). + +The second problem, which was more of a problem at the start, was disassembly, and then putting it in a way that it could be repaired. Video from botnet Sony PVM-8041Q Monitor Teardown and Repair-iyJDam0blYA) Shows a repair of a smaller 10 inch model, and you can see, the user is able to easily access parts of the board to repair. However, the 14 inch models are not nearly as simple to access. The board with all the processing on it (the A board), is on the bottom of the chassis, and to take that out... well video 1104.webm shows what I had to do to get access to the board, while it's powered on. + +\section{Repair} +At first I suspected capacitors had gone bad - due to the failure mode. When it originally failed, it had been working, then suddenly failed. I used an ESR meter but was unable to find any bad caps. This ESR meter is untested, so it's either that there are no bad caps, the bad caps have failed in a way besides high ESR, or that the esr meter doesn't actually work. + +I poked around a bit, but after a few minutes, remembered that voltages should always be checked somewhere early in the repair. Lucky for me, a -15v voltage is showing -25 volts. It being a negative voltage (in my limited knowledge) points to it being for an op amp, and op amps that don't have the right voltage might fail the H and V sync. I will try to fix that and hope there is no other damage. + + +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1106.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{The Rail is listed as -15V...} + +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1107.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Fault!} + +\section{CAUTION} +The tube is extremely damgerous, and I get nervous anytime I go near it. Do NOT try this if you aren't careful. There is also 600V rails on the bottom of board A where the hi voltage (read flyback) transformer is. The only thing in our favor, is that there IS a service manual with some explanations of where everything is. The problem, as I already mentioned, is that actually servicing this device is near impossible. + +\end{document} diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/4.tex b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/4.tex new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3034291 --- /dev/null +++ b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/4.tex @@ -0,0 +1,44 @@ +\documentclass[11pt]{article} +%Gummi|065|=) +\usepackage{graphicx} +\usepackage{caption} +\title{\textbf{Sony PVM 14M4U Repair}} +\author{Steak Electronics} +\date{} +\begin{document} + +\maketitle +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1101.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Barely User Service-able!} + +\section{Start} + +Video 1105.webm shows the problem. Lines moving both vertically (obvious) and horizontally (less obvious, looks diagnolly). + +The second problem, which was more of a problem at the start, was disassembly, and then putting it in a way that it could be repaired. Video from botnet Sony PVM-8041Q Monitor Teardown and Repair-iyJDam0blYA) Shows a repair of a smaller 10 inch model, and you can see, the user is able to easily access parts of the board to repair. However, the 14 inch models are not nearly as simple to access. The board with all the processing on it (the A board), is on the bottom of the chassis, and to take that out... well video 1104.webm shows what I had to do to get access to the board, while it's powered on. + +\section{CAUTION} +The tube is extremely damgerous, and I get nervous anytime I go near it. Do NOT try this if you aren't careful. There is also 600V rails on the bottom of board A where the hi voltage (read flyback) transformer is. The only thing in our favor, is that there IS a service manual with some explanations of where everything is. The problem, as I already mentioned, is that actually servicing this device is near impossible. + +\section{Repair} +At first I suspected capacitors had gone bad - due to the failure mode. When it originally failed, it had been working, then suddenly failed. I used an ESR meter but was unable to find any bad caps. This ESR meter is untested, so it's either that there are no bad caps, the bad caps have failed in a way besides high ESR, or that the esr meter doesn't actually work. + +I poked around a bit, but after a few minutes, remembered that voltages should always be checked somewhere early in the repair. Lucky for me, a -15v voltage is showing -25 volts. It being a negative voltage (in my limited knowledge) points to it being for an op amp, and op amps that don't have the right voltage might fail the H and V sync. I will try to fix that and hope there is no other damage. + + +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1106.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{The Rail is listed as -15V...} + +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1107.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Fault!} + +I looked around, and the output from the PWM is fed into a transformer, where it's rectified into a number of different voltages. The service manual tells all of this. + +\includegraphics[scale=0.6]{../pics/powerboardschematicblockdiagram.jpg} +\captionof{figure}{PWM to Transformer to Zener} +It appears that the -15V rail (as well as the +7V rail) both have rectifiers that keep voltage at a steady level. \footnote{Funny how zeners are universally considered "rookie" when I was starting electronics, and here is Sony in 1997 with state of the art televisions putting a zener in...} If there is 7 Volts on the one rail, and -25 on the other, I know that the zener must be the source of the error. There is a ceramic (I think) and a rubycon electrolytic, which is unlikely to have failed. I have not tested it for high ESR yet. The replacement diode they recommend however, doesn't appear to be a zener. It is either an EGP20G or an RGP15G diode. Both of these appear to be standard diodes. I'm not sure why this is. + + + + +\end{document} diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/5.tex b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/5.tex new file mode 100644 index 0000000..886d611 --- /dev/null +++ b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/5.tex @@ -0,0 +1,44 @@ +\documentclass[11pt]{article} +%Gummi|065|=) +\usepackage{graphicx} +\usepackage{caption} +\title{\textbf{Sony PVM 14M4U Repair}} +\author{Steak Electronics} +\date{} +\begin{document} + +\maketitle +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1101.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Barely User Service-able!} + +\section{Start} + +Video 1105.webm shows the problem. Lines moving both vertically (obvious) and horizontally (less obvious, looks diagnolly). + +The second problem, which was more of a problem at the start, was disassembly, and then putting it in a way that it could be repaired. Video from botnet Sony PVM-8041Q Monitor Teardown and Repair-iyJDam0blYA) Shows a repair of a smaller 10 inch model, and you can see, the user is able to easily access parts of the board to repair. However, the 14 inch models are not nearly as simple to access. The board with all the processing on it (the A board), is on the bottom of the chassis, and to take that out... well video 1104.webm shows what I had to do to get access to the board, while it's powered on. + +\section{CAUTION} +The tube is extremely damgerous, and I get nervous anytime I go near it. Do NOT try this if you aren't careful. There is also 600V rails on the bottom of board A where the hi voltage (read flyback) transformer is. The only thing in our favor, is that there IS a service manual with some explanations of where everything is. The problem, as I already mentioned, is that actually servicing this device is near impossible. + +\section{Repair} +At first I suspected capacitors had gone bad - due to the failure mode. When it originally failed, it had been working, then suddenly failed. I used an ESR meter but was unable to find any bad caps. This ESR meter is untested, so it's either that there are no bad caps, the bad caps have failed in a way besides high ESR, or that the esr meter doesn't actually work. + +I poked around a bit, but after a few minutes, remembered that voltages should always be checked somewhere early in the repair. Lucky for me, a -15v voltage is showing -25 volts. It being a negative voltage (in my limited knowledge) points to it being for an op amp, and op amps that don't have the right voltage might fail the H and V sync. I will try to fix that and hope there is no other damage. + + +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1106.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{The Rail is listed as -15V...} + +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1107.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Fault!} + +I looked around, and the output from the PWM is fed into a transformer, where it's rectified into a number of different voltages. The service manual tells all of this. + +\includegraphics[scale=0.6]{../pics/powerboardschematicblockdiagram.jpg} +\captionof{figure}{PWM to Transformer to Zener} +It appears that the -15V rail (as well as the +7V rail, both have voltages slightly off. I thought at first, the diodes from the block diagram were zeners (being backwards) but it looks like instead, the problem is before the transformer. I'll have to delve a little deeper to see what is giving an incorrect value. + + + + +\end{document} diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/6.tex b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/6.tex new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5ac681f --- /dev/null +++ b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/6.tex @@ -0,0 +1,60 @@ +\documentclass[11pt]{article} +%Gummi|065|=) +\usepackage{graphicx} +\usepackage{caption} +\title{\textbf{Sony PVM 14M4U Repair}} +\author{Steak Electronics} +\date{} +\begin{document} + +\maketitle +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1101.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Barely User Service-able!} + +\section{Start} + +Video 1105.webm shows the problem. Lines moving both vertically (obvious) and horizontally (less obvious, looks diagnolly). + +The second problem, which was more of a problem at the start, was disassembly, and then putting it in a way that it could be repaired. Video from botnet Sony PVM-8041Q Monitor Teardown and Repair-iyJDam0blYA) Shows a repair of a smaller 10 inch model, and you can see, the user is able to easily access parts of the board to repair. However, the 14 inch models are not nearly as simple to access. The board with all the processing on it (the A board), is on the bottom of the chassis, and to take that out... well video 1104.webm shows what I had to do to get access to the board, while it's powered on. + +\section{CAUTION} +The tube is extremely damgerous, and I get nervous anytime I go near it. Do NOT try this if you aren't careful. There is also 600V rails on the bottom of board A where the hi voltage (read flyback) transformer is. The only thing in our favor, is that there IS a service manual with some explanations of where everything is. The problem, as I already mentioned, is that actually servicing this device is near impossible. + +\section{Repair} +At first I suspected capacitors had gone bad - due to the failure mode. When it originally failed, it had been working, then suddenly failed. I used an ESR meter but was unable to find any bad caps. This ESR meter is untested, so it's either that there are no bad caps, the bad caps have failed in a way besides high ESR, or that the esr meter doesn't actually work. + +I poked around a bit, but after a few minutes, remembered that voltages should always be checked somewhere early in the repair. Lucky for me, a -15v voltage is showing -25 volts. It being a negative voltage (in my limited knowledge) points to it being for an op amp, and op amps that don't have the right voltage might fail the H and V sync. I will try to fix that and hope there is no other damage. + + +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1106.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{The Rail is listed as -15V...} + +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1107.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Fault!} + +I looked around, and the output from the PWM is fed into a transformer, where it's rectified into a number of different voltages. The service manual tells all of this. + +\includegraphics[scale=0.6]{../pics/powerboardschematicblockdiagram.jpg} +\captionof{figure}{PWM to Transformer to Zener} +It appears that the -15V rail (as well as the +7V rail, both have voltages slightly off. I thought at first, the diodes from the block diagram were zeners (being backwards) but it looks like instead, the problem is before the transformer. I'll have to delve a little deeper to see what is giving an incorrect value. + +\vspace{0.2in} +\LARGE \textbf{Further Progress} \normalsize + +I did some more work on this, but was unable to determine the fault. I know that the fault is before the transformer, but I can't figure out which component has failed. There are not many electrolytic caps before the transformer, and I don't have equipment to check capacitance of other caps. The rail that is marked as 110V before the transformer reads 130, which 'might' be acceptable (my meter is also not true RMS). 110V would refer to Japan's 110V, and for it to be higher in US is expected. Add that to my non true RMS meter, and the error is not glaringly bad. On the other hand, the -22 Volts on the (spec'd) -15V rail definitely is out of spec. I did try a few things, such as isolating the Mains input (i.e. cutting traces on a few spots, and caps) before it entered into the main Rectifier, but I did not find anything conclusive. +\vspace{0.2in} + +What I know is that there are two rails that are off, the 7V and -15V rails. The 7V rail doesn't appear to be used. I've decided to add in an additional -15V regulator using an LM337, to output 1.5A of -15V. I tried adding another cap on C629, the one of two electrolytics on the -15V rail, but no difference. There are two paths the -15V rail takes in from the mains. One is from the PWM pin B, which has a resistor divider go to S and then down to the pin of the transformer for -15V. One of these resistors must be underspec. +\vspace{0.2in} +\begin{center} +\includegraphics[scale=0.6]{../pics/15vrail.jpg} +\captionof{figure}{-15V Rail} +\end{center} + +R605 Measures 380, which may be right (due to it being on board when measuring. it IS close). R604 is .4K (390). Supposed to be 1.2K. But, measuring on board... R607 is .4K again. Seems measuring these in circuit is a losing game. C616 is not a short. R610 is 8.1K. Seems high. It's value should be no higher than 2.2K... Looks like this is a schematic error, as R608 and R609 are the same value resistors and both are similar readings. R610 is in spec. About all I can think, is pulling R604, R605, and R607 and measuring them. If they are in spec, I'm out of ideas. + + + + + +\end{document} diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/7.tex b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/7.tex new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8c090cd --- /dev/null +++ b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/7.tex @@ -0,0 +1,64 @@ +\documentclass[11pt]{article} +%Gummi|065|=) +\usepackage{graphicx} +\usepackage{caption} +\title{\textbf{Sony PVM 14M4U Repair}} +\author{Steak Electronics} +\date{} +\begin{document} + +\maketitle +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1101.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Barely User Service-able!} + +\section{Start} + +Video 1105.webm shows the problem. Lines moving both vertically (obvious) and horizontally (less obvious, looks diagnolly). + +The second problem, which was more of a problem at the start, was disassembly, and then putting it in a way that it could be repaired. Video from botnet Sony PVM-8041Q Monitor Teardown and Repair-iyJDam0blYA) Shows a repair of a smaller 10 inch model, and you can see, the user is able to easily access parts of the board to repair. However, the 14 inch models are not nearly as simple to access. The board with all the processing on it (the A board), is on the bottom of the chassis, and to take that out... well video 1104.webm shows what I had to do to get access to the board, while it's powered on. + +\section{CAUTION} +The tube is extremely damgerous, and I get nervous anytime I go near it. Do NOT try this if you aren't careful. There is also 600V rails on the bottom of board A where the hi voltage (read flyback) transformer is. The only thing in our favor, is that there IS a service manual with some explanations of where everything is. The problem, as I already mentioned, is that actually servicing this device is near impossible. + +\section{Repair} +At first I suspected capacitors had gone bad - due to the failure mode. When it originally failed, it had been working, then suddenly failed. I used an ESR meter but was unable to find any bad caps. This ESR meter is untested, so it's either that there are no bad caps, the bad caps have failed in a way besides high ESR, or that the esr meter doesn't actually work. + +I poked around a bit, but after a few minutes, remembered that voltages should always be checked somewhere early in the repair. Lucky for me, a -15v voltage is showing -25 volts. It being a negative voltage (in my limited knowledge) points to it being for an op amp, and op amps that don't have the right voltage might fail the H and V sync. I will try to fix that and hope there is no other damage. + +\begin{center} +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1106.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{The Rail is listed as -15V...} + +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1107.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Fault!} +\end{center} + +I looked around, and the output from the PWM is fed into a transformer, where it's rectified into a number of different voltages. The service manual tells all of this. + +\includegraphics[scale=0.6]{../pics/powerboardschematicblockdiagram.jpg} +\captionof{figure}{PWM to Transformer to Zener} +It appears that the -15V rail (as well as the +7V rail, both have voltages slightly off. I thought at first, the diodes from the block diagram were zeners (being backwards) but it looks like instead, the problem is before the transformer. I'll have to delve a little deeper to see what is giving an incorrect value. + +\vspace{0.2in} +\LARGE \textbf{Further Progress} \normalsize + +I did some more work on this, but was unable to determine the fault. I think that the fault is before the transformer, but I can't figure out which component has failed. There are not many electrolytic caps before the transformer, and I don't have equipment to check capacitance of other caps. The rail that is marked as 110V before the transformer reads 130, which 'might' be acceptable (my meter is also not true RMS). 110V would refer to Japan's 110V, and for it to be higher in US is expected. Add that to my non true RMS meter, and the error is not glaringly bad. On the other hand, the -22 Volts on the (spec'd) -15V rail definitely is out of spec. I did try a few things, such as isolating the Mains input (i.e. cutting traces on a few spots, and caps) before it entered into the main Rectifier, but I did not find anything conclusive. +\vspace{0.2in} + +What I know is that there are two rails that are off, the 7V and -15V rails. The 7V rail doesn't appear to be used. I've decided to add in an additional -15V regulator using an LM337, to output 1.5A of -15V. I tried adding another cap on C629, the one of two electrolytics on the -15V rail, but no difference. There are two paths the -15V rail takes in from the mains. One is from the PWM pin B, which has a resistor divider go to S and then down to the pin of the transformer for -15V. One of these resistors must be underspec. +\vspace{0.2in} +\begin{center} +\includegraphics[scale=0.6]{../pics/15vrail.jpg} +\captionof{figure}{-15V Rail} +\end{center} + +R605 Measures 380, which may be right (due to it being on board when measuring. it IS close). R604 is .4K (390). Supposed to be 1.2K. But, measuring on board... R607 is .4K again. Seems measuring these in circuit is a losing game. C616 is not a short. R610 is 8.1K. Seems high. It's value should be no higher than 2.2K... Looks like this is a schematic error, as R608 and R609 are the same value resistors and both are similar readings. R610 is in spec. About all I can think, is pulling R604, R605, and R607 and measuring them. If they are in spec, I'm out of ideas. +\vspace{0.2in} + +I'm a bit confused whether the test probe measurements are AC or DC. It says 110, which is after a rectifier, (so DC) but I see AC also on this line, and as well, it's going through a transformer, so it must be AC that is coupling, but the AC is 22V, while the DC is 135V or so. Perhaps the fault is near the bridge diode, and with the coupling capacitors nearby... I tried removing them before, but I don't have equipment to test their values. I didn't see any shorts. I give up - I will put in the LM337 and call it a day. + + + + + +\end{document} diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/8.tex b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/8.tex new file mode 100644 index 0000000..20bdd52 --- /dev/null +++ b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/8.tex @@ -0,0 +1,72 @@ +\documentclass[11pt]{article} +%Gummi|065|=) +\usepackage{graphicx} +\usepackage{caption} +\title{\textbf{Sony PVM 14M4U Repair}} +\author{Steak Electronics} +\date{} +\begin{document} + +\maketitle +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1101.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Barely User Service-able!} + +\section{Start} + +Video 1105.webm shows the problem. Lines moving both vertically (obvious) and horizontally (less obvious, looks diagnolly). + +The second problem, which was more of a problem at the start, was disassembly, and then putting it in a way that it could be repaired. Video from botnet Sony PVM-8041Q Monitor Teardown and Repair-iyJDam0blYA) Shows a repair of a smaller 10 inch model, and you can see, the user is able to easily access parts of the board to repair. However, the 14 inch models are not nearly as simple to access. The board with all the processing on it (the A board), is on the bottom of the chassis, and to take that out... well video 1104.webm shows what I had to do to get access to the board, while it's powered on. + +\section{CAUTION} +The tube is extremely damgerous, and I get nervous anytime I go near it. Do NOT try this if you aren't careful. There is also 600V rails on the bottom of board A where the hi voltage (read flyback) transformer is. The only thing in our favor, is that there IS a service manual with some explanations of where everything is. The problem, as I already mentioned, is that actually servicing this device is near impossible. + +\section{Repair} +At first I suspected capacitors had gone bad - due to the failure mode. When it originally failed, it had been working, then suddenly failed. I used an ESR meter but was unable to find any bad caps. This ESR meter is untested, so it's either that there are no bad caps, the bad caps have failed in a way besides high ESR, or that the esr meter doesn't actually work. + +I poked around a bit, but after a few minutes, remembered that voltages should always be checked somewhere early in the repair. Lucky for me, a -15v voltage is showing -25 volts. It being a negative voltage (in my limited knowledge) points to it being for an op amp, and op amps that don't have the right voltage might fail the H and V sync. I will try to fix that and hope there is no other damage. + +\begin{center} +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1106.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{The Rail is listed as -15V...} + +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1107.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Fault!} +\end{center} + +I looked around, and the output from the PWM is fed into a transformer, where it's rectified into a number of different voltages. The service manual tells all of this. + +\includegraphics[scale=0.6]{../pics/powerboardschematicblockdiagram.jpg} +\captionof{figure}{PWM to Transformer to Zener} +It appears that the -15V rail (as well as the +7V rail, both have voltages slightly off. I thought at first, the diodes from the block diagram were zeners (being backwards) but it looks like instead, the problem is before the transformer. I'll have to delve a little deeper to see what is giving an incorrect value. + +\vspace{0.2in} +\LARGE \textbf{Further Progress} \normalsize + +I did some more work on this, but was unable to determine the fault. I think that the fault is before the transformer, but I can't figure out which component has failed. There are not many electrolytic caps before the transformer, and I don't have equipment to check capacitance of other caps. The rail that is marked as 110V before the transformer reads 130, which 'might' be acceptable (my meter is also not true RMS). 110V would refer to Japan's 110V, and for it to be higher in US is expected. Add that to my non true RMS meter, and the error is not glaringly bad. On the other hand, the -22 Volts on the (spec'd) -15V rail definitely is out of spec. I did try a few things, such as isolating the Mains input (i.e. cutting traces on a few spots, and caps) before it entered into the main Rectifier, but I did not find anything conclusive. +\vspace{0.2in} + +What I know is that there are two rails that are off, the 7V and -15V rails. The 7V rail doesn't appear to be used. I've decided to add in an additional -15V regulator using an LM337, to output 1.5A of -15V. I tried adding another cap on C629, the one of two electrolytics on the -15V rail, but no difference. There are two paths the -15V rail takes in from the mains. One is from the PWM pin B, which has a resistor divider go to S and then down to the pin of the transformer for -15V. One of these resistors must be underspec. +\vspace{0.2in} +\begin{center} +\includegraphics[scale=0.6]{../pics/15vrail.jpg} +\captionof{figure}{-15V Rail} +\end{center} + +R605 Measures 380, which may be right (due to it being on board when measuring. it IS close). R604 is .4K (390). Supposed to be 1.2K. But, measuring on board... R607 is .4K again. Seems measuring these in circuit is a losing game. C616 is not a short. R610 is 8.1K. Seems high. It's value should be no higher than 2.2K... Looks like this is a schematic error, as R608 and R609 are the same value resistors and both are similar readings. R610 is in spec. About all I can think, is pulling R604, R605, and R607 and measuring them. If they are in spec, I'm out of ideas. +\vspace{0.2in} + +I'm a bit confused whether the test probe measurements are AC or DC. It says 110, which is after a rectifier, (so DC) but I see AC also on this line, and as well, it's going through a transformer, so it must be AC that is coupling, but the AC is 22V, while the DC is 135V or so. Perhaps the fault is near the bridge diode, and with the coupling capacitors nearby... I tried removing them before, but I don't have equipment to test their values. I didn't see any shorts. I give up - I will put in the LM337 and call it a day. + +\vspace{0.2in} +\LARGE \textbf{Tonight's Work} \normalsize + +I managed to get an LM337 tested and built up on perfboard. As I was soldering wires to the machine, (while unplugged) some caps discharged back into the 115 VOut of the STRS3115 chip as I accidentally moved the probe the wrong way. Oops. Too bad there wasn't a diode there. Now the chip won't output 115V DC. Upon turning the Television on, you can hear the tube attempt to start (sounds like a high voltage ping, which fails to complete, then repeatedly pings - see video). Not enough voltage. + +\vspace{0.2in} + +Good news is, a new chip (which is available thankfully) should fix the 115V rail. There is nothing else on that rail that would've failed, so a reasonably straightforward fix. The Television remains on the bench another few days. And some more good news, the LM337 seems to output a near clean -15V. It will be interesting to see what the repaired voltage rail does to the tv output once the 115V rail is back in order. + + + + +\end{document} diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/9.tex b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/9.tex new file mode 100644 index 0000000..463c3ab --- /dev/null +++ b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/docs/9.tex @@ -0,0 +1,87 @@ +\documentclass[11pt]{article} +%Gummi|065|=) +\usepackage{graphicx} +\usepackage{caption} +\title{\textbf{Sony PVM 14M4U Repair}} +\author{Steak Electronics} +\date{} +\begin{document} + +\maketitle +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1101.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Barely User Service-able!} + +\section{Start} + +Video 1105.webm shows the problem. Lines moving both vertically (obvious) and horizontally (less obvious, looks diagnolly). + +The second problem, which was more of a problem at the start, was disassembly, and then putting it in a way that it could be repaired. Video from botnet Sony PVM-8041Q Monitor Teardown and Repair-iyJDam0blYA) Shows a repair of a smaller 10 inch model, and you can see, the user is able to easily access parts of the board to repair. However, the 14 inch models are not nearly as simple to access. The board with all the processing on it (the A board), is on the bottom of the chassis, and to take that out... well video 1104.webm shows what I had to do to get access to the board, while it's powered on. + +\section{CAUTION} +The tube is extremely damgerous, and I get nervous anytime I go near it. Do NOT try this if you aren't careful. There is also 600V rails on the bottom of board A where the hi voltage (read flyback) transformer is. The only thing in our favor, is that there IS a service manual with some explanations of where everything is. The problem, as I already mentioned, is that actually servicing this device is near impossible. + +\section{Repair} +At first I suspected capacitors had gone bad - due to the failure mode. When it originally failed, it had been working, then suddenly failed. I used an ESR meter but was unable to find any bad caps. This ESR meter is untested, so it's either that there are no bad caps, the bad caps have failed in a way besides high ESR, or that the esr meter doesn't actually work. + +I poked around a bit, but after a few minutes, remembered that voltages should always be checked somewhere early in the repair. Lucky for me, a -15v voltage is showing -25 volts. It being a negative voltage (in my limited knowledge) points to it being for an op amp, and op amps that don't have the right voltage might fail the H and V sync. I will try to fix that and hope there is no other damage. + +\begin{center} +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1106.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{The Rail is listed as -15V...} + +\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN1107.JPG} +\captionof{figure}{Fault!} +\end{center} + +I looked around, and the output from the PWM is fed into a transformer, where it's rectified into a number of different voltages. The service manual tells all of this. + +\includegraphics[scale=0.6]{../pics/powerboardschematicblockdiagram.jpg} +\captionof{figure}{PWM to Transformer to Zener} +It appears that the -15V rail (as well as the +7V rail, both have voltages slightly off. I thought at first, the diodes from the block diagram were zeners (being backwards) but it looks like instead, the problem is before the transformer. I'll have to delve a little deeper to see what is giving an incorrect value. + +\vspace{0.2in} +\LARGE \textbf{Further Progress} \normalsize + +I did some more work on this, but was unable to determine the fault. I think that the fault is before the transformer, but I can't figure out which component has failed. There are not many electrolytic caps before the transformer, and I don't have equipment to check capacitance of other caps. The rail that is marked as 110V before the transformer reads 130, which 'might' be acceptable (my meter is also not true RMS). 110V would refer to Japan's 110V, and for it to be higher in US is expected. Add that to my non true RMS meter, and the error is not glaringly bad. On the other hand, the -22 Volts on the (spec'd) -15V rail definitely is out of spec. I did try a few things, such as isolating the Mains input (i.e. cutting traces on a few spots, and caps) before it entered into the main Rectifier, but I did not find anything conclusive. +\vspace{0.2in} + +What I know is that there are two rails that are off, the 7V and -15V rails. The 7V rail doesn't appear to be used. I've decided to add in an additional -15V regulator using an LM337, to output 1.5A of -15V. I tried adding another cap on C629, the one of two electrolytics on the -15V rail, but no difference. There are two paths the -15V rail takes in from the mains. One is from the PWM pin B, which has a resistor divider go to S and then down to the pin of the transformer for -15V. One of these resistors must be underspec. +\vspace{0.2in} +\begin{center} +\includegraphics[scale=0.6]{../pics/15vrail.jpg} +\captionof{figure}{-15V Rail} +\end{center} + +R605 Measures 380, which may be right (due to it being on board when measuring. it IS close). R604 is .4K (390). Supposed to be 1.2K. But, measuring on board... R607 is .4K again. Seems measuring these in circuit is a losing game. C616 is not a short. R610 is 8.1K. Seems high. It's value should be no higher than 2.2K... Looks like this is a schematic error, as R608 and R609 are the same value resistors and both are similar readings. R610 is in spec. About all I can think, is pulling R604, R605, and R607 and measuring them. If they are in spec, I'm out of ideas. +\vspace{0.2in} + +I'm a bit confused whether the test probe measurements are AC or DC. It says 110, which is after a rectifier, (so DC) but I see AC also on this line, and as well, it's going through a transformer, so it must be AC that is coupling, but the AC is 22V, while the DC is 135V or so. Perhaps the fault is near the bridge diode, and with the coupling capacitors nearby... I tried removing them before, but I don't have equipment to test their values. I didn't see any shorts. I give up - I will put in the LM337 and call it a day. + +\vspace{0.2in} +\LARGE \textbf{Tonight's Work} \normalsize + +I managed to get an LM337 tested and built up on perfboard. As I was soldering wires to the machine, (while unplugged) some caps discharged back into the 115 VOut of the STRS3115 chip as I accidentally moved the probe the wrong way. Oops. Too bad there wasn't a diode there. Now the chip won't output 115V DC. Upon turning the Television on, you can hear the tube attempt to start (sounds like a high voltage ping, which fails to complete, then repeatedly pings - see video). Not enough voltage. + +\vspace{0.2in} + +Good news is, a new chip (which is available thankfully) should fix the 115V rail. There is nothing else on that rail that would've failed, so a reasonably straightforward fix. The Television remains on the bench another few days. And some more good news, the LM337 seems to output a near clean -15V. It will be interesting to see what the repaired voltage rail does to the tv output once the 115V rail is back in order. + +\section{Conclusion} + +This was my first Television repair. After I replaced the new chip which I had shorted out earlier, I attempted to turn it on, but the tube would only start for a brief moment before turning itself off (after what seems to be the opto-coupler relay on the power board switched on). At this point, out of the need to clean my desk, I threw in the towel, and tore down the device for what I wanted, giving the rest to recyclers. All in all, it was a learning experience for televisions, and I'm not afraid of CRTs (maybe I should be, though) as much as I was... The lessons to learn in this experience are: +\begin{itemize} +\item Be careful of multiple grounds on power supplies like this +\item Fuses are good. Without a fuse on this, I would've burned something, my probe likely. +\item Be especially careful when checking voltages in a device like this. Any caps that are charged, will release a shock into other lines if you slip while probing, and that can be the end of your repair right there. Probe as little as possible. +\end{itemize} +Upon watching other videos online \footnote{Example being EEVblog \#378, where he attemps a repair of a Yamaha Stereo Amp.} I noticed a few other aspects which would've been useful for my setup (in terms of safety), and also one for repair success. +\begin{itemize} +\item Use an isolation transformer for the device under test +\item Use isolated probes (or make them from the math function and two probes with the ground leads disconnected... Look online if you are not familiar with this). +\item Use a GFCI on the outlet where the device is connected. (I need one of these for my lab bench). +\end{itemize} + +And the one note about repair success is, that if I systematically took all (or some of the early ones perhaps, or the ones in the target 15V rail) of the capacitors, and was able to measure with both ESR and a Capacitance meter - which I don't have - I might've been able to find a fault there. Not just electrolytics, but other caps, and of course as Michael Geier wrote in his book on diagnosing electronics, not just caps but anything can fail. TV Try \#1 was not a success but there's no telling what will happen next time. + + +\end{document} diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/pics/15vrail.jpg b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/pics/15vrail.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..30c61eb Binary files /dev/null and b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/pics/15vrail.jpg differ diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/pics/15vrail_testing.jpg b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/pics/15vrail_testing.jpg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b3e9024 Binary files /dev/null and b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/pics/15vrail_testing.jpg differ diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/pics/15vrail_testing.xcf b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/pics/15vrail_testing.xcf new file mode 100644 index 0000000..58a0975 Binary files /dev/null and b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/pics/15vrail_testing.xcf differ diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/pics/DSCN1088.JPG b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/pics/DSCN1088.JPG new file mode 100644 index 0000000..aaf2450 Binary files /dev/null and b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/pics/DSCN1088.JPG differ diff --git a/Sony_PVM_14M4U/pics/DSCN1089.JPG b/Sony_PVM_14M4U/pics/DSCN1089.JPG new 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 Post subject: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 3:14 am 

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I took apart my PVM 20M2U and made an exhaustive capacitor list, and successfully re-capped it with success. I also re-capped a 1354Q with the same list, without any mismatches.

This covers the "A" board, and the CRT Neck board (I think the "C" board?)

Here's a digikey shopping cart list: http://www.digikey.com/short/3b0fcr
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 8:56 am 

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Did you notice much of a difference between before and after re-capping?
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 2:10 pm 

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xga wrote:
Did you notice much of a difference between before and after re-capping?

Huge difference. Minor geometry issues resolved, wrap-around on the top of the screen resolved (which also fixed the visible dim RGB calibration lines), and all ringing and moderate smearing of signals is now gone. The monitor now looks good when set to factory settings.

I also fixed a PVM 1354Q like this, which had completely broken geometry (unusably so). The 1354Q is more or less the 14M2, before the new naming scheme took over.

I will be applying this kit to my 14M4U soon as well.
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 5:08 pm 

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Thanks for posting this. This might sound dumb to the experts on this thread, but sometimes trying to figure out which caps to buy is a bit intimidating. There's a ton of options and it's easy to make a mistake. Stuff like this is a gigantic help.
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 12:34 am 

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How dangerous is recapping? After reading about how fatal working on a CRT can be, since I have no training or education in things electric, I am kind of scared.
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 1:36 am 

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Recapping arcade monitors is basically a necessity for the hobby. Yeah, the difference of hardware between an arcade monitor and a broadcast one is huge, but there is definitely overlap. Just as long as you discharge the monitor at the flyback you should be good to go (that is the part that can bite you and possibly kill you). Watch pretty much any video from a Youtuber called John @John's Arcade, hes always discharging and recapping monitors. He uses just a huge flathead that is grounded and puts one hand in his pocket in case something hairy happens.

Having a reliable repository of cap kits for a large spectrum of Broadcast monitors is definitely good to have as we are approaching a new decade of these things have been around. Cheers @retrorgb for (possibly) being that repository(?). :D
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2016 5:50 pm 

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Appreciate this. I have one of these but it has some geometry issues that I can't fix via the service menu. Might have to try this.
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2016 6:01 pm 

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my BVM 20G1E doesn't show any signs of needing recapped yet, but it's definitely something I would most likely end up doing in the future when issues start to arise. A repository for cap replacements would be most useful indeed.
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2016 8:05 pm 

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Agreed. If people can start making thorough cap lists for the monitors, it would be great going into the future.
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2016 12:52 am 

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I'm no expert, but I spent some serious time making a list for the PVM 2530. I put together a digikey cart (linked below). I've got one cart that is every electrolytic cap (all 232 of them!), and another that is all electrolytic caps for the geometry, convergence, and neck board. Hope this is helpful!

I also thought the spreadsheet I made (also linked below) could be useful (it's got every electrolytic in the set).

Carts:
Geometry, convergence, and neck board
http://www.digikey.com/short/jn837w

or

All electrolytics
https://www.digikey.com/short/jn8q4c


Excel List:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Mpa3z ... dtJxAEK2S-

Really hope this helps someone!

Cheers

Update 1: Updated digikey cart to replace obsolete/unavailable parts and to add caps for neck board
Update 2: Updated Spreadsheet to include all Electrolytic on all boards (some may not need replacement)
Update 3: Deleted board map photos. Don't think they were very useful in the end since I opted for shotgun approach to replacement.
Update 4: Added another cart that's the proper shotgun approach (it's got every single electrolytic cap in the set, all 232 of them!).
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+ Last edited by that1crzywhtguy on Sat Sep 29, 2018 10:48 am, edited 10 times in total. +

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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 1:26 pm 

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I'm right now in the process of changing the caps (tedious task...). I bought mikejmoffitt's list, only had to change some caps that weren't available at the time. I have 2 14M2U so I bought the kit x2. I have some geometry issues in one and the other is a bit blurry too, so I will post my findings when I finish one.
Thanks for the cap list.
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 3:25 am 

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Hi again,
I successfully changed all the caps of the A and C boards. The 14M2U works perfectly. There is some variation with the caps, specially the 47UF 25V, I used about 40 of them. I will count how many capacitors are left and order more for the other PVM. I will post some pictures of the A board and a comparison against my other PVM.
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 1:25 pm 

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Thanks for this resource. My 1954Q could use a recap and this will save me some time it comes time.
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 2:03 pm 

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If you have the service manual for you set, does that make it easy to figure out which capacitors you need? If you don't have the service manual, how do you figure out which caps you need? I have some consumer Trinitrons that I would eventually like to recap and I will probably get some more consumer CRTs from other brands that I will want to recap as well. I don't have any soldering experience; is learning how to replace a capacitor something that could be done in a short amount of time?
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 8:57 pm 

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The service manual may have the capacitors list. There are some variation in sizes that you might consider so they fit. Consumer TVs generally don't have as many caps as a PVM. You should inspect your CRTs to count the caps and their values if they are not on the service manual. Changing the caps is an easy task, just practice with something that you don't care too much. you should take care inside a CRT, there are mortal voltages in the fly back transformer and the tube itself. Electronic knowledge always help but this is a mere technical task.
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 9:26 pm 

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Here are some pics of the PVM A board with the new caps installed:

Spoiler: show
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The left monitor is the one with the new caps, great picture!. The other PVM has a blurry image and not too much brightness. I don't know if is the tube or the caps. I want to try that PVM with the board that have the caps replaced to know if it will improve or not.
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2017 10:30 pm 

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Thanks for your help. There are quite a few tight spots on your board where it looks like it would have been challenging to solder a new capacitor there.
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 12:55 am 

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Near the deflection stuff is a royal pain. Worth doing with high-temp caps and hoping to not do it again for a long time.
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 3:42 am 

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@mikejmoffitt hehehehe you're so right... I don't want to do this any time soon... but...
Do you think that the lack of brightness and focus is caused by the caps? It takes some time for the image on that PVM to stabilize (I think this might be the caps that aren't charging as fast as they used to) but I don't know if they will fix these issues.
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 12:23 pm 

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I sure would like to know what capacitors to buy for my PVM-14N6U!
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2017 3:00 pm 

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greenhawk84 wrote:
I sure would like to know what capacitors to buy for my PVM-14N6U!


Manual for you https://1drv.ms/b/s!ArJdQhcOk1dnllqDRD6QOszqUam4
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2017 7:46 pm 

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i think its about time to re-cap my Sony Wega because its starting to get an annoying curl on one side of the screen.

probably also time to change 2 ICs. its starting to take a long time to turn on. the power light flashes 9 times before it turns on.

Its from 2002.
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 9:20 pm 

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mikejmoffitt wrote:
I took apart my PVM 20M2U and made an exhaustive capacitor list, and successfully re-capped it with success. I also re-capped a 1354Q with the same list, without any mismatches.

This covers the "A" board, and the CRT Neck board (I think the "C" board?)

Here's a digikey shopping cart list: http://www.digikey.com/short/3b0fcr


So I'm looking into recapping a few of my PVM's but I noticed that some of the capacitors in your list are rated at 85°C. Wouldn't it be ideal to use all 105°C capacitors or is it not that big a difference over 85°C caps as long as their a quality brand like Nichicon?

Also apparently there was a service bulletin about the 2.2uF capacitor at C584 which recommends replacing that capacitor with a 1uF 160V 105°C high ripple capacitor.

Just copy and pasting from here

Spoiler: show
What problems are you having that you want to recap? I was researching this myself and it seems there was a service bulletin about one particular cap on the M2/M4 line so you might want to do that one single one first:
Model: OEV143, OEV203, PVM-14M2MDU, PVM-14M2U, PVM-14M4U, PVM-20M2U, PVM-20M4U, PVM-20M2MDU
Part required: Sony pt# 1-124-940-51 Cap, 1uF/160V, 105 degree C high ripple Qty: 1
Modification procedure:
Replace C584 (2.2uF) with 1UF high ripple capacitor. NOTE: Since the diameter of this new capacitor is larger than that of the previous capacitor, make sure the C584 capacitor does not touch the Q503 heat sink or the D527 lead wires.
Perform the deflection adjustment according to service manual.



It also appears this may be relevant to the 195X models as well

https://www.electronicspoint.com/thread ... sue.67832/
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 10:29 pm 

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I mostly went by brand, but I think a few of those might have been last-minute changes from one choice being unavailable. If you'd want to swap out any for higher-rated caps and/or better brands, go for it, I'd be down to change out the first post with an improved list.

This does cover the 195x/135x series too, I put it in the thread title.
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 11:10 pm 

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mikejmoffitt wrote:
I mostly went by brand, but I think a few of those might have been last-minute changes from one choice being unavailable. If you'd want to swap out any for higher-rated caps and/or better brands, go for it, I'd be down to change out the first post with an improved list.

This does cover the 195x/135x series too, I put it in the thread title.


What I meant to say by mentioning the 195x/135x models is that they may be prone to the same horizontal RGB lines that involve the capacitor at C584. There was apparently a service bulletin recommending that capacitor be replaced with a 1uF 160V 105°C high ripple capacitor. Here are two other threads mentioning the issue:

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=55802

viewtopic.php?p=1135021#p1135021
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 6:24 pm 

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Shit, the shopping list is gone now. Not sure what happened to it.
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 10:10 pm 

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Guys. You should consider putting a list together and giving it to console5.com

He has a great wiki to permanently store this info. His cap kits also cost less than digi-key/mouser because he buys the caps in huge bulk volumes and passes the savings to you!
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 3:21 pm 

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Appreciate this. Does anyone have the pvm 1354q service manual?
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 6:49 pm 

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kaedwood wrote:
Appreciate this. Does anyone have the pvm 1354q service manual?


https://1drv.ms/b/s!ArJdQhcOk1dngxmfZLXbxBSJpcuK
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 Post subject: Re: PVM 20M2/14M2/20M4/14M4/1954Q/1354Q cap kit list
PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 4:18 am 

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22point8 wrote:
kaedwood wrote:
Appreciate this. Does anyone have the pvm 1354q service manual?


https://1drv.ms/b/s!ArJdQhcOk1dngxmfZLXbxBSJpcuK


Thanks.
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