\relax \@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {1}Overview}{1}} \@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {1}{\ignorespaces Atmega2560 Maximums\relax }}{2}} \@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {2}PCB Revision 1}{2}} \@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {2}{\ignorespaces Board assembled with ENC, speaker, and pre-wired LEDs\relax }}{3}} \@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.1}Troubleshooting the board:}{3}} \@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {3}{\ignorespaces Cut plastic part off in pairs, then desolder. OR, design your board so you don't have to remove the pin headers!\relax }}{4}} \@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {4}{\ignorespaces If you are going to be soldering high gauge magnet wire, you should use a microscope. It makes the process much more enjoyable, and efficient.\relax }}{4}} \@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.2}Build Considerations}{4}} \@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {3}PCB - Revision 2}{5}} \@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {5}{\ignorespaces Revision 3 Back\relax }}{6}} \@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {4}PCB - Revision 3 Layout}{6}} \@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {4.1}PCB - Revision 3 Build}{7}} \@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {4.2}RGB Code, and Future Plans}{7}} \@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {4.3}Mounting the boards to look Professional}{7}} \@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {6}{\ignorespaces Instead, we will hide the micro behind the oak board, for a more professional look\relax }}{8}} \@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {5}480x320 TFT LCD Test}{8}} \@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.1}The deal with brightness on this ILI9486}{9}} \@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.2}External Links}{10}}