car

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 \@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {3}Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {4}Arduino VReg Blowout}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {5}AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.1}Ground Isolator}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.2}Capacitor Audio Coupling}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {5.2.1}Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}{3}}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/4.log

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
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Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/4.tex

@@ -32,6 +32,24 @@ This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not ve
 \section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
 I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
 
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options. 1) Use a transformer to block DC. 2) Use capacitors to couple AC.
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. There were two issues. 1) I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf caps, and tried once more. Now I had sound.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR. It's not an issue in this case, if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture.
+
+
 
 
 \end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/5.aux

@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+\relax 
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {1}Overview}{1}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {2}Work Log}{1}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.1}I2C OLED display}{1}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.2}Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}{1}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {3}Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {4}Arduino VReg Blowout}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {5}AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.1}Ground Isolator}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.2}Capacitor Audio Coupling}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {5.2.1}Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}{3}}

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Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/5.tex

@@ -0,0 +1,56 @@
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{10/27/19}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo.
+\section{Work Log}
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and are going to use it to display something. Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+For starters I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options. 1) Use a transformer to block DC. 2) Use capacitors to couple AC.
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. There were two issues. 1) I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf caps, and tried once more. Now I had sound.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR. It's not an issue in this case, if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture.
+
+
+
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/5.tex~

@@ -0,0 +1,55 @@
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{10/27/19}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo.
+\section{Work Log}
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and are going to use it to display something. Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+For starters I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options. 1) Use a transformer to block DC. 2) Use capacitors to couple AC.
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. There were two issues. 1) I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf caps, and tried once more. Now I had sound.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR. It's not an issue in this case, if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture.
+
+
+
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/6.aux

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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {2}Work Log}{1}}
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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.2}Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {3}Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {4}Arduino VReg Blowout}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {5}AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}{2}}
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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.2}Capacitor Audio Coupling}{3}}
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Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/6.tex

@@ -0,0 +1,59 @@
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{10/27/19}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\section{Work Log}
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture.
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Different cap brands will have different impedances for a similar value.}
+
+
+
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/6.tex~

@@ -0,0 +1,58 @@
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{10/27/19}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo.
+\section{Work Log}
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and are going to use it to display something. Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+For starters I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options. 1) Use a transformer to block DC. 2) Use capacitors to couple AC.
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. There were two issues. 1) I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf caps, and tried once more. Now I had sound.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR. It's not an issue in this case, if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture.
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Different cap brands will have different impedances for a similar value.}
+
+
+
+\end{document}

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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.2}Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {3}Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}{2}}
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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.2}Capacitor Audio Coupling}{3}}
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Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/7.tex

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+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\section{Work Log}
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/7.tex~

@@ -0,0 +1,59 @@
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{10/27/19}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\section{Work Log}
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture.
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Different cap brands will have different impedances for a similar value.}
+
+
+
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/8.aux

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+\relax 
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {1}Overview}{1}}
+\@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {1}{\ignorespaces PCB rev 1\relax }}{1}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {2}Items Included}{1}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.1}I2C OLED display}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.2}Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {3}Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {4}Arduino VReg Blowout}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {5}Amplifier}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {6}AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {6.1}Ground Isolator}{4}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {6.2}Capacitor Audio Coupling}{4}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {6.2.1}Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}{4}}
+\@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {2}{\ignorespaces Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.\relax }}{5}}

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Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/8.tex

@@ -0,0 +1,82 @@
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+%\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Items Included}
+I thought I would include the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Arduino Nano
+\item Voltage and Gnd Breakout
+\item I2C Display
+\item Voltage Readout (of BAT)
+\item Current Readout (being drawn)
+\end{itemize}
+I also wanted to have the connectors that eurorack and synth designers use for mono audio cables, but the cables turned out too expensive. The current readout didn't work initially, and I haven't gotten to fixing it yet.
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{Amplifier}
+The amplifier I used is one of the cheapest avialable on ebay. I'm not proud. I'm poor. I had to take it apart, and reseat the amplifier ICs as the tab was not making contact with the chassis for one of them. I also added thermal paste. This amp is underpowered for my car, and may need replacing. It gets a bit hot.
+
+Some other issues with this amplifier are that the output connectors can get pushed back, there is only one output connector option, and it must run on battery power, as a 12V 1A or 2A will not power it. Finally, there is a 6V DC bias on output. No output audio isolation, which means you get car noise.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.\footnote{A third option would've been to use a second set of batteries, but that would be laborious.}
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/8.tex~

@@ -0,0 +1,68 @@
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Work Log}
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+\end{document}

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HomeSolarDataLogger_Two/docs/3.tex

@@ -0,0 +1,65 @@
+
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\usepackage{graphicx}
+\usepackage{caption}
+\title{\textbf{Solar Charger Project}}
+\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\tableofcontents
+
+
+\section{Solar Charger Project}
+Want to charge a lead battery from a solar panel, and run some load on the battery occasionally. Want to monitor the load, and the charge of the panel.
+\section{Chip Hunting}
+Sorting by cheapest buck boost regulators, I've found a micrel chip, MIC4680, which is a simple buck reg. It can be adjustable, so I will take advantage of that with another slide pot, and use it to charge different battery types. These regs are ~\$2. The next realistic option I see is around 5-6 which are the true buck/boost switching regs.
+
+Looking at the Mic4680, I want at least 10mA of current passing through to the device downstream, in order to be around 70\% efficient. Looking at the different graphs for output voltage: greatest efficiency is at 12V for low currents. As you lower output voltage, you need more current for equal efficiency. Good for my needs.
+
+Not sure how I will handle overcurrent. Probably a fuse, or ptc. Too much current will blow the fuse. Don't do that.
+
+Let's start building the board.
+
+\subsection{Board considerations}
+Input will be any number of solar cells, in series and or parallel. They will go to the vreg. The vreg will go to the battery, which in turn will have a load, of a micro (probably a nano on sleep mode). But actually, I might want a micro that can operate at up to 14 volts... So a nano might not work. Looks like there is a high voltage PIC and Atmega, but the Atmega is obsolete :/
+
+So cheapest is the Pic16. Might try that. It can handle up to 15 volts, which should be safe, with the regulator offering a float voltage (but only a float voltage. Unfortunately, the AVR was up to 18v...)
+
+Unfortunateyl the PIC is eprom (i.e. UV erasable) only or One time programmed OTP only. Ugh. There is another atmega, which is more expensive, but fully programmable. Let's run with that.
+
+The atmega406, programs through JTAG on PortB. Page 70 for jtag pinouts. It is a LQFP so a board will be needed, but I don't enjoy breadboarding anyways, (microcontrollers). 
+
+So this chip has an internal regulator, and can run off a wide range of voltages. What is lowest current usage? The data sheet in page 225 mentions the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Active 1.2mA
+\item idle 270uA
+\item ADC Noise Reduction 220 uA
+\item Power-save 35uA
+\item Power-down 20uA
+\item Power-off 1.5uA
+\end{itemize}
+
+Based on this, I'm thinking we can only run code when necessary and hopefully get somewhere between the 35uA and the 1.2mA with sleep states.
+
+\textbf{RECAP}
+
+Solar to vreg to battery, to low power micro with built in vreg with breakouts for pins so I can think of some sensor to attach. Since I do surveillance work, I think a motion sensor would be a good start. We will want to have something switch on and off a low power motion sensor. https://www.futurlec.com/PIR\_Sensors.shtml has a low power pir (relatively cheap) sensor. 50uA. That might be someplace to start. Though I know that these sensors need an external light sensor, or software magic to avoid false alarms. Breakouts for Vcc, Gnd. Breakouts for all pins. Slide pot for vreg (to use other batteries). Fuse to limit current. Switch on shutdown of vreg, for manual shutdown of power.
+
+
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/solarlogger_plan.jpg}
+\captionof{figure}{Solar Logger outline. Self sufficient sensors}
+\vspace{0.2in}
+Note that I will also have the capability to log this with the battery station. Which I will do in house. I think that is enough. I don't want to worry too much about the PIR. Anything else I'm forgetting...?
+
+The connectors I used on the battery station that had a perfect fit for my standard two pin blue screw terminals was the following:
+\begin{verbatim}
+Connectors_Molex:Molex_MiniFit-JR-5556-02A_2x01x4.20mm_Straight
+\end{verbatim}
+I will want to use that again for a few places. Except, that footprint doesn't scale past the 2x01, because all other footprints are 2x2 or 2x4 etc... I want single in line terminals. I'm going to need to look online.
+\end{document}
+

HomeSolarDataLogger_Two/docs/3.tex~

@@ -0,0 +1,65 @@
+
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\usepackage{graphicx}
+\usepackage{caption}
+\title{\textbf{Solar Charger Project}}
+\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\tableofcontents
+
+
+\section{Overview}
+Want to charge a lead battery from a solar panel, and run some load on the battery occasionally. Want to monitor the load, and the charge of the panel.
+\section{Chip Hunting}
+Sorting by cheapest buck boost regulators, I've found a micrel chip, MIC4680, which is a simple buck reg. It can be adjustable, so I will take advantage of that with another slide pot, and use it to charge different battery types. These regs are ~\$2. The next realistic option I see is around 5-6 which are the true buck/boost switching regs.
+
+Looking at the Mic4680, I want at least 10mA of current passing through to the device downstream, in order to be around 70\% efficient. Looking at the different graphs for output voltage: greatest efficiency is at 12V for low currents. As you lower output voltage, you need more current for equal efficiency. Good for my needs.
+
+Not sure how I will handle overcurrent. Probably a fuse, or ptc. Too much current will blow the fuse. Don't do that.
+
+Let's start building the board.
+
+\subsection{Board considerations}
+Input will be any number of solar cells, in series and or parallel. They will go to the vreg. The vreg will go to the battery, which in turn will have a load, of a micro (probably a nano on sleep mode). But actually, I might want a micro that can operate at up to 14 volts... So a nano might not work. Looks like there is a high voltage PIC and Atmega, but the Atmega is obsolete :/
+
+So cheapest is the Pic16. Might try that. It can handle up to 15 volts, which should be safe, with the regulator offering a float voltage (but only a float voltage. Unfortunately, the AVR was up to 18v...)
+
+Unfortunateyl the PIC is eprom (i.e. UV erasable) only or One time programmed OTP only. Ugh. There is another atmega, which is more expensive, but fully programmable. Let's run with that.
+
+The atmega406, programs through JTAG on PortB. Page 70 for jtag pinouts. It is a LQFP so a board will be needed, but I don't enjoy breadboarding anyways, (microcontrollers). 
+
+So this chip has an internal regulator, and can run off a wide range of voltages. What is lowest current usage? The data sheet in page 225 mentions the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Active 1.2mA
+\item idle 270uA
+\item ADC Noise Reduction 220 uA
+\item Power-save 35uA
+\item Power-down 20uA
+\item Power-off 1.5uA
+\end{itemize}
+
+Based on this, I'm thinking we can only run code when necessary and hopefully get somewhere between the 35uA and the 1.2mA with sleep states.
+
+\textbf{RECAP}
+
+Solar to vreg to battery, to low power micro with built in vreg with breakouts for pins so I can think of some sensor to attach. Since I do surveillance work, I think a motion sensor would be a good start. We will want to have something switch on and off a low power motion sensor. https://www.futurlec.com/PIR\_Sensors.shtml has a low power pir (relatively cheap) sensor. 50uA. That might be someplace to start. Though I know that these sensors need an external light sensor, or software magic to avoid false alarms. Breakouts for Vcc, Gnd. Breakouts for all pins. Slide pot for vreg (to use other batteries). Fuse to limit current. Switch on shutdown of vreg, for manual shutdown of power.
+
+
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/solarlogger_plan.jpg}
+\captionof{figure}{Solar Logger outline. Self sufficient sensors}
+\vspace{0.2in}
+Note that I will also have the capability to log this with the battery station. Which I will do in house. I think that is enough. I don't want to worry too much about the PIR. Anything else I'm forgetting...?
+
+The connectors I used on the battery station that had a perfect fit for my standard two pin blue screw terminals was the following:
+\begin{verbatim}
+Connectors_Molex:Molex_MiniFit-JR-5556-02A_2x01x4.20mm_Straight
+\end{verbatim}
+I will want to use that again for a few places. Except, that footprint doesn't scale past the 2x01, because all other footprints are 2x2 or 2x4 etc... I want single in line terminals. I'm going to need to look online.
+\end{document}
+

HomeSolarDataLogger_Two/docs/3.toc

@@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {1}Solar Charger Project}{1}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {2}Chip Hunting}{1}
+\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.1}Board considerations}{2}

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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.2}Current monitor}{6}}
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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.4}Using DMM probes, vs. direct wires}{14}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.5}Float Voltage for 6V SLA}{14}}

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@@ -188,13 +188,13 @@ Overfull \hbox (107.1064pt too wide) in paragraph at lines 46--49
 management/MAX1772.html
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-
+[2]
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 []\OT1/cmr/m/n/10.95 http://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/mc34063-battery-cha
 rger/msg1378671/#msg1378671
  []
 
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+
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 []\OT1/cmtt/m/n/10.95 I'd recommend just float charging. It takes only a little
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batterycharge_stationdata/docs/12.tex

@@ -319,6 +319,13 @@ The ones I have are flimsy. Next time I will use Barrier Strip that are pcb moun
 \includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../../../Teardowns_2019/AIPhone_JK-1MEDv2/pics/DSCN2572.JPG}
 \captionof{figure}{Barrier Strips that are PCB mount are stronger than terminal blocks.}
 
+\subsection{Using DMM probes, vs. direct wires}
+I had better results with direct wires into the current sense, as opposed to trying to use the DMM with its probes, and assumed high R cables.
+
+\subsection{Float Voltage for 6V SLA}
+
+https://www.powerstream.com/SLA.htm
+Gives 13.5 - 13.8, so 13.65 / 2 == 6.825
 
 
 

batterycharge_stationdata/docs/12.toc

@@ -1,7 +1,7 @@
-\contentsline {section}{\numberline {1}Overview}{1}
-\contentsline {section}{\numberline {2}Chip Hunting}{1}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {1}Overview}{2}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {2}Chip Hunting}{2}
 \contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.1}Part Selection Summary}{3}
-\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.2}Current monitor}{5}
+\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.2}Current monitor}{6}
 \contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.3}PCB Revision - Modular Parts}{6}
 \contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {2.3.1}Ripped off by temperature sensors}{7}
 \contentsline {section}{\numberline {3}Bom Notes}{8}
@@ -17,3 +17,5 @@
 \contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.1}Solution: Grounding Soldering Issue}{12}
 \contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.2}Vin Input Cap}{13}
 \contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.3}Terminal Blocks}{13}
+\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.4}Using DMM probes, vs. direct wires}{14}
+\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.5}Float Voltage for 6V SLA}{14}