working

Car_Stereo_Replacement/bom/amp/bom1

@@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
+PTV09A-2020F-A104-ND  - logarithmic horizontal pot 100k
+
+LA6500-EOS-ND - generic power op amp

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/10.log

@@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
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Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/11.aux

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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {1}Overview}{1}}
+\@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {1}{\ignorespaces PCB rev 1\relax }}{1}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {2}Items Included}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.1}I2C OLED display}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.2}Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {3}Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {4}Arduino VReg Blowout}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {5}Amplifier}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {6}AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {6.1}Ground Isolator}{4}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {6.2}Capacitor Audio Coupling}{4}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {6.2.1}Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}{4}}
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+\bibcite{Scherz}{1}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {7}DIY Amp}{6}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {8}References}{6}}

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Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/11.tex

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+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+%\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\\
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Items Included}
+I thought I would include the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Arduino Nano
+\item Voltage and Gnd Breakout
+\item I2C Display
+\item Voltage Readout (of BAT)
+\item Current Readout (being drawn)
+\end{itemize}
+I also wanted to have the connectors that eurorack and synth designers use for mono audio cables, but the cables turned out too expensive. The current readout didn't work initially, and I haven't gotten to fixing it yet.
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{Amplifier}
+The amplifier I used is one of the cheapest avialable on ebay. I'm not proud. I'm poor. I had to take it apart, and reseat the amplifier ICs as the tab was not making contact with the chassis for one of them. I also added thermal paste. This amp is underpowered for my car, and may need replacing. It gets a bit hot.
+
+Some other issues with this amplifier are that the output connectors can get pushed back, there is only one output connector option, and it must run on battery power, as a 12V 1A or 2A will not power it. Finally, there is a 6V DC bias on output. No output audio isolation, which means you get car noise.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.\footnote{A third option would've been to use a second set of batteries, but that would be laborious.}
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+\subsubsection{Wikipedia on Impedance}
+
+\emph{In general, a capacitor is seen as a storage component for electric energy. But this is only one capacitor function. A capacitor can also act as an AC resistor. Especially aluminum electrolytic capacitors are used in many applications as a decoupling capacitors to filter or bypass undesired biased AC frequencies to the ground or for capacitive coupling of audio AC signals. Then the dielectric is used only for blocking DC. For such applications the AC resistance, the impedance is as important as the capacitance value. }
+\begin{verbatim} https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php\title=Aluminum_electrolytic
+_capacitor&oldid=940281525
+\end{verbatim}
+Essentially, what I learned today.
+
+\section{DIY Amp}
+I was flipping through Practical Electronics for Inventors\cite{Scherz}(page 959), when I came across an audio amplifier. He also gives one at the chapter on Semiconductors (pg. 467), although the former is more detailed. With a reasonably simple schematic available, and a high likelihood of it working, I say why not: let's build it up.
+
+\section{References}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Scherz}
+  Paul Scherz, and Simon Monk,
+  \emph{Practical Electronics for Inventors}, fourth edition - 2016, McGraw Hill.
+
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/11.tex~

@@ -0,0 +1,93 @@
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+%\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Items Included}
+I thought I would include the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Arduino Nano
+\item Voltage and Gnd Breakout
+\item I2C Display
+\item Voltage Readout (of BAT)
+\item Current Readout (being drawn)
+\end{itemize}
+I also wanted to have the connectors that eurorack and synth designers use for mono audio cables, but the cables turned out too expensive. The current readout didn't work initially, and I haven't gotten to fixing it yet.
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{Amplifier}
+The amplifier I used is one of the cheapest avialable on ebay. I'm not proud. I'm poor. I had to take it apart, and reseat the amplifier ICs as the tab was not making contact with the chassis for one of them. I also added thermal paste. This amp is underpowered for my car, and may need replacing. It gets a bit hot.
+
+Some other issues with this amplifier are that the output connectors can get pushed back, there is only one output connector option, and it must run on battery power, as a 12V 1A or 2A will not power it. Finally, there is a 6V DC bias on output. No output audio isolation, which means you get car noise.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.\footnote{A third option would've been to use a second set of batteries, but that would be laborious.}
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+\subsubsection{Wikipedia on Impedance}
+
+\emph{In general, a capacitor is seen as a storage component for electric energy. But this is only one capacitor function. A capacitor can also act as an AC resistor. Especially aluminum electrolytic capacitors are used in many applications as a decoupling capacitors to filter or bypass undesired biased AC frequencies to the ground or for capacitive coupling of audio AC signals. Then the dielectric is used only for blocking DC. For such applications the AC resistance, the impedance is as important as the capacitance value. }
+\begin{verbatim} https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php\title=Aluminum_electrolytic
+_capacitor&oldid=940281525
+\end{verbatim}
+Essentially, what I learned today.
+
+
+\section{References}}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Scherz}
+  Paul Scherz, and Simon Monk,
+  \emph{Practical Electronics for Inventors}, fourth edition - 2016, McGraw Hill.
+
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/12.aux

@@ -0,0 +1,20 @@
+\relax 
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {1}Overview}{1}}
+\@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {1}{\ignorespaces PCB rev 1\relax }}{1}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {2}Items Included}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.1}I2C OLED display}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.2}Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {3}Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {4}Arduino VReg Blowout}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {5}Amplifier}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {6}AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}{4}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {6.1}Ground Isolator}{4}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {6.2}Capacitor Audio Coupling}{4}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {6.2.1}Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}{5}}
+\@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {2}{\ignorespaces Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.\relax }}{5}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {6.2.2}Wikipedia on Impedance}{5}}
+\citation{Scherz}
+\bibcite{Scherz}{1}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {7}DIY Amp}{6}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {7.1}LM383 is Obsolete}{6}}
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Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/12.tex

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+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+%\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\\
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Items Included}
+I thought I would include the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Arduino Nano
+\item Voltage and Gnd Breakout
+\item I2C Display
+\item Voltage Readout (of BAT)
+\item Current Readout (being drawn)
+\item Amplifier ``Lvpin LP-838''
+\end{itemize}
+I also wanted to have the connectors that eurorack and synth designers use for mono audio cables, but the cables turned out too expensive. The current readout didn't work initially, and I haven't gotten to fixing it yet.
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{Amplifier}
+The amplifier I used is one of the cheapest avialable on ebay. I'm not proud. I'm poor. I had to take it apart, and reseat the amplifier ICs as the tab was not making contact with the chassis for one of them. I also added thermal paste. This amp is underpowered for my car, and may need replacing. It gets a bit hot.
+
+Some other issues with this amplifier are that the output connectors can get pushed back, there is only one output connector option, and it must run on battery power, as a 12V 1A or 2A will not power it. Finally, there is a 6V DC bias on output. No output audio isolation, which means you get car noise.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.\footnote{A third option would've been to use a second set of batteries, but that would be laborious.}
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+\subsubsection{Wikipedia on Impedance}
+
+\emph{In general, a capacitor is seen as a storage component for electric energy. But this is only one capacitor function. A capacitor can also act as an AC resistor. Especially aluminum electrolytic capacitors are used in many applications as a decoupling capacitors to filter or bypass undesired biased AC frequencies to the ground or for capacitive coupling of audio AC signals. Then the dielectric is used only for blocking DC. For such applications the AC resistance, the impedance is as important as the capacitance value. }
+\begin{verbatim} https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php\title=Aluminum_electrolytic
+_capacitor&oldid=940281525
+\end{verbatim}
+Essentially, what I learned today.
+
+\section{DIY Amp}
+I was flipping through Practical Electronics for Inventors\cite{Scherz}(page 959), when I came across an audio amplifier. He also gives one at the chapter on Semiconductors (pg. 467), although the former is more detailed. With a reasonably simple schematic available, and a high likelihood of it working, I say why not: let's build it up.
+
+I've noticed that the ``Lvpin LP-838'' amplifier I'm using is underpowered for my two front speakers \footnote{Although it seems it would work for one channel, so two of them might be enough. It's rated for 20W, so that is about 15-20W per channel req'd. It works at 20W for both, just that it heats up too much. Multiple ebay sellers have it misquoted at 200W. Just an extra 0, no biggie. Based on all this, it appears each channel of my car speaker needs about 15 watts to be on the safe side. The example schematic is 16 watts. Two should suffice.}, so I will make two of the provided 16 watt amps.
+
+\subsection{LM383 is Obsolete}
+That explains why I haven't heard of it. The chip is obsolete. Some sell it on ebay for about \$5 each.
+
+As a different route, could I use some other power amplifier op amp, with the same pinout? Hm...
+
+\section{References}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Scherz}
+  Paul Scherz, and Simon Monk,
+  \emph{Practical Electronics for Inventors}, fourth edition - 2016, McGraw Hill.
+
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/12.tex~

@@ -0,0 +1,98 @@
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+%\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\\
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Items Included}
+I thought I would include the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Arduino Nano
+\item Voltage and Gnd Breakout
+\item I2C Display
+\item Voltage Readout (of BAT)
+\item Current Readout (being drawn)
+\end{itemize}
+I also wanted to have the connectors that eurorack and synth designers use for mono audio cables, but the cables turned out too expensive. The current readout didn't work initially, and I haven't gotten to fixing it yet.
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{Amplifier}
+The amplifier I used is one of the cheapest avialable on ebay. I'm not proud. I'm poor. I had to take it apart, and reseat the amplifier ICs as the tab was not making contact with the chassis for one of them. I also added thermal paste. This amp is underpowered for my car, and may need replacing. It gets a bit hot.
+
+Some other issues with this amplifier are that the output connectors can get pushed back, there is only one output connector option, and it must run on battery power, as a 12V 1A or 2A will not power it. Finally, there is a 6V DC bias on output. No output audio isolation, which means you get car noise.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.\footnote{A third option would've been to use a second set of batteries, but that would be laborious.}
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+\subsubsection{Wikipedia on Impedance}
+
+\emph{In general, a capacitor is seen as a storage component for electric energy. But this is only one capacitor function. A capacitor can also act as an AC resistor. Especially aluminum electrolytic capacitors are used in many applications as a decoupling capacitors to filter or bypass undesired biased AC frequencies to the ground or for capacitive coupling of audio AC signals. Then the dielectric is used only for blocking DC. For such applications the AC resistance, the impedance is as important as the capacitance value. }
+\begin{verbatim} https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php\title=Aluminum_electrolytic
+_capacitor&oldid=940281525
+\end{verbatim}
+Essentially, what I learned today.
+
+\section{DIY Amp}
+I was flipping through Practical Electronics for Inventors\cite{Scherz}(page 959), when I came across an audio amplifier. He also gives one at the chapter on Semiconductors (pg. 467), although the former is more detailed. With a reasonably simple schematic available, and a high likelihood of it working, I say why not: let's build it up.
+
+I've noticed that the ``Lvpin LP-838'' amplifier I'm using is underpowered for my two front speakers \footnote{Although it seems it would work for one channel, so two of them might be enough. It's rated for 20W, so that is about 20W per channel. It works at 20W for both, just that it heats up too much. Multiple ebay sellers have it misquoted at 200W. Just an extra 0, no biggie. Based on all this, it appears each channel of my car speaker needs about 15 watts to be on the safe side. The example schematic is 16 watts. Two should suffice.}
+
+\section{References}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Scherz}
+  Paul Scherz, and Simon Monk,
+  \emph{Practical Electronics for Inventors}, fourth edition - 2016, McGraw Hill.
+
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/12tex

@@ -0,0 +1,98 @@
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+%\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\\
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Items Included}
+I thought I would include the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Arduino Nano
+\item Voltage and Gnd Breakout
+\item I2C Display
+\item Voltage Readout (of BAT)
+\item Current Readout (being drawn)
+\end{itemize}
+I also wanted to have the connectors that eurorack and synth designers use for mono audio cables, but the cables turned out too expensive. The current readout didn't work initially, and I haven't gotten to fixing it yet.
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{Amplifier}
+The amplifier I used is one of the cheapest avialable on ebay. I'm not proud. I'm poor. I had to take it apart, and reseat the amplifier ICs as the tab was not making contact with the chassis for one of them. I also added thermal paste. This amp is underpowered for my car, and may need replacing. It gets a bit hot.
+
+Some other issues with this amplifier are that the output connectors can get pushed back, there is only one output connector option, and it must run on battery power, as a 12V 1A or 2A will not power it. Finally, there is a 6V DC bias on output. No output audio isolation, which means you get car noise.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.\footnote{A third option would've been to use a second set of batteries, but that would be laborious.}
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+\subsubsection{Wikipedia on Impedance}
+
+\emph{In general, a capacitor is seen as a storage component for electric energy. But this is only one capacitor function. A capacitor can also act as an AC resistor. Especially aluminum electrolytic capacitors are used in many applications as a decoupling capacitors to filter or bypass undesired biased AC frequencies to the ground or for capacitive coupling of audio AC signals. Then the dielectric is used only for blocking DC. For such applications the AC resistance, the impedance is as important as the capacitance value. }
+\begin{verbatim} https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php\title=Aluminum_electrolytic
+_capacitor&oldid=940281525
+\end{verbatim}
+Essentially, what I learned today.
+
+\section{DIY Amp}
+I was flipping through Practical Electronics for Inventors\cite{Scherz}(page 959), when I came across an audio amplifier. He also gives one at the chapter on Semiconductors (pg. 467), although the former is more detailed. With a reasonably simple schematic available, and a high likelihood of it working, I say why not: let's build it up.
+
+I've noticed that the ``Lvpin LP-838'' amplifier I'm using is underpowered for my two front speakers \footnote{Although it seems it would work for one channel, so two of them might be enough. It's rated for 20W, so that is about 20W per channel. It works at 20W for both, just that it heats up too much. Multiple ebay sellers have it misquoted at 200W. Just an extra 0, no biggie. Based on all this, it appears each channel of my car speaker needs about 15 watts to be on the safe side. The example schematic is 16 watts. Two should suffice.}
+
+\section{References}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Scherz}
+  Paul Scherz, and Simon Monk,
+  \emph{Practical Electronics for Inventors}, fourth edition - 2016, McGraw Hill.
+
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/12tex.aux

@@ -0,0 +1,19 @@
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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {6}AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}{3}}
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+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+%\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\\
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Items Included}
+I thought I would include the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Arduino Nano
+\item Voltage and Gnd Breakout
+\item I2C Display
+\item Voltage Readout (of BAT)
+\item Current Readout (being drawn)
+\end{itemize}
+I also wanted to have the connectors that eurorack and synth designers use for mono audio cables, but the cables turned out too expensive. The current readout didn't work initially, and I haven't gotten to fixing it yet.
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{Amplifier}
+The amplifier I used is one of the cheapest avialable on ebay. I'm not proud. I'm poor. I had to take it apart, and reseat the amplifier ICs as the tab was not making contact with the chassis for one of them. I also added thermal paste. This amp is underpowered for my car, and may need replacing. It gets a bit hot.
+
+Some other issues with this amplifier are that the output connectors can get pushed back, there is only one output connector option, and it must run on battery power, as a 12V 1A or 2A will not power it. Finally, there is a 6V DC bias on output. No output audio isolation, which means you get car noise.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.\footnote{A third option would've been to use a second set of batteries, but that would be laborious.}
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+\subsubsection{Wikipedia on Impedance}
+
+\emph{In general, a capacitor is seen as a storage component for electric energy. But this is only one capacitor function. A capacitor can also act as an AC resistor. Especially aluminum electrolytic capacitors are used in many applications as a decoupling capacitors to filter or bypass undesired biased AC frequencies to the ground or for capacitive coupling of audio AC signals. Then the dielectric is used only for blocking DC. For such applications the AC resistance, the impedance is as important as the capacitance value. }
+\begin{verbatim} https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php\title=Aluminum_electrolytic
+_capacitor&oldid=940281525
+\end{verbatim}
+Essentially, what I learned today.
+
+\section{DIY Amp}
+I was flipping through Practical Electronics for Inventors\cite{Scherz}(page 959), when I came across an audio amplifier. He also gives one at the chapter on Semiconductors (pg. 467), although the former is more detailed. With a reasonably simple schematic available, and a high likelihood of it working, I say why not: let's build it up.
+
+I've noticed that the Lvpin LP-838 amplifier I'm using is underpowered for my two front speakers \footnote{Although it seems it would work for one channel, so two of them might be enough. It's rated for 20W, so that is about 20W per channel. It works at 20W for both, just that it heats up too much.}
+
+\section{References}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Scherz}
+  Paul Scherz, and Simon Monk,
+  \emph{Practical Electronics for Inventors}, fourth edition - 2016, McGraw Hill.
+
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+\end{document}

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+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+%\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\\
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Items Included}
+I thought I would include the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Arduino Nano
+\item Voltage and Gnd Breakout
+\item I2C Display
+\item Voltage Readout (of BAT)
+\item Current Readout (being drawn)
+\item Amplifier ``Lvpin LP-838''
+\end{itemize}
+I also wanted to have the connectors that eurorack and synth designers use for mono audio cables, but the cables turned out too expensive. The current readout didn't work initially, and I haven't gotten to fixing it yet.
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{Amplifier}
+The amplifier I used is one of the cheapest avialable on ebay. I'm not proud. I'm poor. I had to take it apart, and reseat the amplifier ICs as the tab was not making contact with the chassis for one of them. I also added thermal paste. This amp is underpowered for my car, and may need replacing. It gets a bit hot.
+
+Some other issues with this amplifier are that the output connectors can get pushed back, there is only one output connector option, and it must run on battery power, as a 12V 1A or 2A will not power it. Finally, there is a 6V DC bias on output. No output audio isolation, which means you get car noise.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.\footnote{A third option would've been to use a second set of batteries, but that would be laborious.}
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+\subsubsection{Wikipedia on Impedance}
+
+\emph{In general, a capacitor is seen as a storage component for electric energy. But this is only one capacitor function. A capacitor can also act as an AC resistor. Especially aluminum electrolytic capacitors are used in many applications as a decoupling capacitors to filter or bypass undesired biased AC frequencies to the ground or for capacitive coupling of audio AC signals. Then the dielectric is used only for blocking DC. For such applications the AC resistance, the impedance is as important as the capacitance value. }
+\begin{verbatim} https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php\title=Aluminum_electrolytic
+_capacitor&oldid=940281525
+\end{verbatim}
+Essentially, what I learned today.
+
+\section{DIY Amp}
+I was flipping through Practical Electronics for Inventors\cite{Scherz}(page 959), when I came across an audio amplifier. He also gives one at the chapter on Semiconductors (pg. 467), although the former is more detailed. With a reasonably simple schematic available, and a high likelihood of it working, I say why not: let's build it up.
+
+I've noticed that the ``Lvpin LP-838'' amplifier I'm using is underpowered for my two front speakers \footnote{Although it seems it would work for one channel, so two of them might be enough. It's rated for 20W, so that is about 15-20W per channel req'd. It works at 20W for both, just that it heats up too much. Multiple ebay sellers have it misquoted at 200W. Just an extra 0, no biggie. Based on all this, it appears each channel of my car speaker needs about 15 watts to be on the safe side. The example schematic is 16 watts. Two should suffice.}, so I will make two of the provided 16 watt amps.
+
+\subsection{LM383 is Obsolete}
+That explains why I haven't heard of it. The chip is obsolete. Some sell it on ebay for about \$5 each.
+
+As a different route, could I use some other power amplifier op amp, with the same pinout? Hm...
+
+\section{References}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Scherz}
+  Paul Scherz, and Simon Monk,
+  \emph{Practical Electronics for Inventors}, fourth edition - 2016, McGraw Hill.
+
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/14.aux

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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.1}I2C OLED display}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.2}Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {3}Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}{3}}
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Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/14.tex

@@ -0,0 +1,108 @@
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+%\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\\
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Items Included}
+I thought I would include the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Arduino Nano
+\item Voltage and Gnd Breakout
+\item I2C Display
+\item Voltage Readout (of BAT)
+\item Current Readout (being drawn)
+\item Amplifier ``Lvpin LP-838''
+\end{itemize}
+I also wanted to have the connectors that eurorack and synth designers use for mono audio cables, but the cables turned out too expensive. The current readout didn't work initially, and I haven't gotten to fixing it yet.
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{Amplifier}
+The amplifier I used is one of the cheapest avialable on ebay. I'm not proud. I'm poor. I had to take it apart, and reseat the amplifier ICs as the tab was not making contact with the chassis for one of them. I also added thermal paste. This amp is underpowered for my car, and may need replacing. It gets a bit hot.
+
+Some other issues with this amplifier are that the output connectors can get pushed back, there is only one output connector option, and it must run on battery power, as a 12V 1A or 2A will not power it. Finally, there is a 6V DC bias on output. No output audio isolation, which means you get car noise.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.\footnote{A third option would've been to use a second set of batteries, but that would be laborious.}
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+\subsubsection{Wikipedia on Impedance}
+
+\emph{In general, a capacitor is seen as a storage component for electric energy. But this is only one capacitor function. A capacitor can also act as an AC resistor. Especially aluminum electrolytic capacitors are used in many applications as a decoupling capacitors to filter or bypass undesired biased AC frequencies to the ground or for capacitive coupling of audio AC signals. Then the dielectric is used only for blocking DC. For such applications the AC resistance, the impedance is as important as the capacitance value. }
+\begin{verbatim} https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php\title=Aluminum_electrolytic
+_capacitor&oldid=940281525
+\end{verbatim}
+Essentially, what I learned today.
+
+\section{DIY Amp}
+I was flipping through Practical Electronics for Inventors\cite{Scherz}(page 959), when I came across an audio amplifier. He also gives one at the chapter on Semiconductors (pg. 467), although the former is more detailed. With a reasonably simple schematic available, and a high likelihood of it working, I say why not: let's build it up.
+
+I've noticed that the ``Lvpin LP-838'' amplifier I'm using is underpowered for my two front speakers \footnote{Although it seems it would work for one channel, so two of them might be enough. It's rated for 20W, so that is about 15-20W per channel req'd. It works at 20W for both, just that it heats up too much. Multiple ebay sellers have it misquoted at 200W. Just an extra 0, no biggie. Based on all this, it appears each channel of my car speaker needs about 15 watts to be on the safe side. The example schematic is 16 watts. Two should suffice.}, so I will make two of the provided 16 watt amps.
+
+\subsection{LM383 is Obsolete}
+That explains why I haven't heard of it. The chip is obsolete. Some sell it on ebay for about \$5 each.
+
+As a different route, could I use some other power amplifier op amp, with the same pinout? Hm... Aha, the LM1875 has the same pinout. Let's use that.\footnote{How did I find this? I searched Digikey for the LM383 sold by rochester, noted it was it the category of Linear - Amplifiers - Audio, chose that, then searched for everything in the same package (TO220-5). Came right up. If this hadn't worked, I would've wanted to try other sites: Farnells, Mouser, etc...}
+
+Will it work with the same schematic? Questionable. May still need to buy a LM383, along with the LM1875, as backup. Amplfiers are expensive bom item here.
+
+ 
+
+\section{References}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Scherz}
+  Paul Scherz, and Simon Monk,
+  \emph{Practical Electronics for Inventors}, fourth edition - 2016, McGraw Hill.
+
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/14.tex~

@@ -0,0 +1,107 @@
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+%\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\\
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Items Included}
+I thought I would include the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Arduino Nano
+\item Voltage and Gnd Breakout
+\item I2C Display
+\item Voltage Readout (of BAT)
+\item Current Readout (being drawn)
+\item Amplifier ``Lvpin LP-838''
+\end{itemize}
+I also wanted to have the connectors that eurorack and synth designers use for mono audio cables, but the cables turned out too expensive. The current readout didn't work initially, and I haven't gotten to fixing it yet.
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{Amplifier}
+The amplifier I used is one of the cheapest avialable on ebay. I'm not proud. I'm poor. I had to take it apart, and reseat the amplifier ICs as the tab was not making contact with the chassis for one of them. I also added thermal paste. This amp is underpowered for my car, and may need replacing. It gets a bit hot.
+
+Some other issues with this amplifier are that the output connectors can get pushed back, there is only one output connector option, and it must run on battery power, as a 12V 1A or 2A will not power it. Finally, there is a 6V DC bias on output. No output audio isolation, which means you get car noise.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.\footnote{A third option would've been to use a second set of batteries, but that would be laborious.}
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+\subsubsection{Wikipedia on Impedance}
+
+\emph{In general, a capacitor is seen as a storage component for electric energy. But this is only one capacitor function. A capacitor can also act as an AC resistor. Especially aluminum electrolytic capacitors are used in many applications as a decoupling capacitors to filter or bypass undesired biased AC frequencies to the ground or for capacitive coupling of audio AC signals. Then the dielectric is used only for blocking DC. For such applications the AC resistance, the impedance is as important as the capacitance value. }
+\begin{verbatim} https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php\title=Aluminum_electrolytic
+_capacitor&oldid=940281525
+\end{verbatim}
+Essentially, what I learned today.
+
+\section{DIY Amp}
+I was flipping through Practical Electronics for Inventors\cite{Scherz}(page 959), when I came across an audio amplifier. He also gives one at the chapter on Semiconductors (pg. 467), although the former is more detailed. With a reasonably simple schematic available, and a high likelihood of it working, I say why not: let's build it up.
+
+I've noticed that the ``Lvpin LP-838'' amplifier I'm using is underpowered for my two front speakers \footnote{Although it seems it would work for one channel, so two of them might be enough. It's rated for 20W, so that is about 15-20W per channel req'd. It works at 20W for both, just that it heats up too much. Multiple ebay sellers have it misquoted at 200W. Just an extra 0, no biggie. Based on all this, it appears each channel of my car speaker needs about 15 watts to be on the safe side. The example schematic is 16 watts. Two should suffice.}, so I will make two of the provided 16 watt amps.
+
+\subsection{LM383 is Obsolete}
+That explains why I haven't heard of it. The chip is obsolete. Some sell it on ebay for about \$5 each.
+
+As a different route, could I use some other power amplifier op amp, with the same pinout? Hm... Aha, the LM1875 has the same pinout. Let's use that.\footnote{How did I find this? I searched Digikey for the LM383 sold by rochester, noted it was it the category of Linear - Amplifiers - Audio, chose that, then searched for everything in the same package (TO220-5). Came right up.
+
+
+ 
+
+\section{References}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Scherz}
+  Paul Scherz, and Simon Monk,
+  \emph{Practical Electronics for Inventors}, fourth edition - 2016, McGraw Hill.
+
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/15.aux

@@ -0,0 +1,20 @@
+\relax 
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {1}Overview}{1}}
+\@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {1}{\ignorespaces PCB rev 1\relax }}{1}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {2}Items Included}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.1}I2C OLED display}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.2}Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {3}Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {4}Arduino VReg Blowout}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {5}Amplifier}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {6}AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}{4}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {6.1}Ground Isolator}{4}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {6.2}Capacitor Audio Coupling}{4}}
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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {6.2.2}Wikipedia on Impedance}{5}}
+\citation{Scherz}
+\bibcite{Scherz}{1}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {7}DIY Amp}{6}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {7.1}LM383 is Obsolete}{6}}
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Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/15.tex

@@ -0,0 +1,110 @@
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+%\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\\
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Items Included}
+I thought I would include the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Arduino Nano
+\item Voltage and Gnd Breakout
+\item I2C Display
+\item Voltage Readout (of BAT)
+\item Current Readout (being drawn)
+\item Amplifier ``Lvpin LP-838''
+\end{itemize}
+I also wanted to have the connectors that eurorack and synth designers use for mono audio cables, but the cables turned out too expensive. The current readout didn't work initially, and I haven't gotten to fixing it yet.
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{Amplifier}
+The amplifier I used is one of the cheapest avialable on ebay. I'm not proud. I'm poor. I had to take it apart, and reseat the amplifier ICs as the tab was not making contact with the chassis for one of them. I also added thermal paste. This amp is underpowered for my car, and may need replacing. It gets a bit hot.
+
+Some other issues with this amplifier are that the output connectors can get pushed back, there is only one output connector option, and it must run on battery power, as a 12V 1A or 2A will not power it. Finally, there is a 6V DC bias on output. No output audio isolation, which means you get car noise.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.\footnote{A third option would've been to use a second set of batteries, but that would be laborious.}
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+\subsubsection{Wikipedia on Impedance}
+
+\emph{In general, a capacitor is seen as a storage component for electric energy. But this is only one capacitor function. A capacitor can also act as an AC resistor. Especially aluminum electrolytic capacitors are used in many applications as a decoupling capacitors to filter or bypass undesired biased AC frequencies to the ground or for capacitive coupling of audio AC signals. Then the dielectric is used only for blocking DC. For such applications the AC resistance, the impedance is as important as the capacitance value. }
+\begin{verbatim} https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php\title=Aluminum_electrolytic
+_capacitor&oldid=940281525
+\end{verbatim}
+Essentially, what I learned today.
+
+\section{DIY Amp}
+I was flipping through Practical Electronics for Inventors\cite{Scherz}(page 959), when I came across an audio amplifier. He also gives one at the chapter on Semiconductors (pg. 467), although the former is more detailed. With a reasonably simple schematic available, and a high likelihood of it working, I say why not: let's build it up.
+
+I've noticed that the ``Lvpin LP-838'' amplifier I'm using is underpowered for my two front speakers \footnote{Although it seems it would work for one channel, so two of them might be enough. It's rated for 20W, so that is about 15-20W per channel req'd. It works at 20W for both, just that it heats up too much. Multiple ebay sellers have it misquoted at 200W. Just an extra 0, no biggie. Based on all this, it appears each channel of my car speaker needs about 15 watts to be on the safe side. The example schematic is 16 watts. Two should suffice.}, so I will make two of the provided 16 watt amps.
+
+\subsection{LM383 is Obsolete}
+That explains why I haven't heard of it. The chip is obsolete. Some sell it on ebay for about \$5 each.
+
+As a different route, could I use some other power amplifier op amp, with the same pinout? Hm... Aha, the LM1875 has the same pinout. Let's use that.\footnote{How did I find this? I searched Digikey for the LM383 sold by rochester, noted it was it the category of Linear - Amplifiers - Audio, chose that, then searched for everything in the same package (TO220-5). Came right up. If this hadn't worked, I would've wanted to try other sites: Farnells, Mouser, etc...}
+
+Will it work with the same schematic? Questionable. May still need to buy a LM383, along with the LM1875, as backup. I might also try a generic power op amp.
+
+Amplfiers are the expensive bom item here.
+
+ 
+
+\section{References}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Scherz}
+  Paul Scherz, and Simon Monk,
+  \emph{Practical Electronics for Inventors}, fourth edition - 2016, McGraw Hill.
+
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/15.tex~

@@ -0,0 +1,108 @@
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+%\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\\
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Items Included}
+I thought I would include the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Arduino Nano
+\item Voltage and Gnd Breakout
+\item I2C Display
+\item Voltage Readout (of BAT)
+\item Current Readout (being drawn)
+\item Amplifier ``Lvpin LP-838''
+\end{itemize}
+I also wanted to have the connectors that eurorack and synth designers use for mono audio cables, but the cables turned out too expensive. The current readout didn't work initially, and I haven't gotten to fixing it yet.
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{Amplifier}
+The amplifier I used is one of the cheapest avialable on ebay. I'm not proud. I'm poor. I had to take it apart, and reseat the amplifier ICs as the tab was not making contact with the chassis for one of them. I also added thermal paste. This amp is underpowered for my car, and may need replacing. It gets a bit hot.
+
+Some other issues with this amplifier are that the output connectors can get pushed back, there is only one output connector option, and it must run on battery power, as a 12V 1A or 2A will not power it. Finally, there is a 6V DC bias on output. No output audio isolation, which means you get car noise.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.\footnote{A third option would've been to use a second set of batteries, but that would be laborious.}
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+\subsubsection{Wikipedia on Impedance}
+
+\emph{In general, a capacitor is seen as a storage component for electric energy. But this is only one capacitor function. A capacitor can also act as an AC resistor. Especially aluminum electrolytic capacitors are used in many applications as a decoupling capacitors to filter or bypass undesired biased AC frequencies to the ground or for capacitive coupling of audio AC signals. Then the dielectric is used only for blocking DC. For such applications the AC resistance, the impedance is as important as the capacitance value. }
+\begin{verbatim} https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php\title=Aluminum_electrolytic
+_capacitor&oldid=940281525
+\end{verbatim}
+Essentially, what I learned today.
+
+\section{DIY Amp}
+I was flipping through Practical Electronics for Inventors\cite{Scherz}(page 959), when I came across an audio amplifier. He also gives one at the chapter on Semiconductors (pg. 467), although the former is more detailed. With a reasonably simple schematic available, and a high likelihood of it working, I say why not: let's build it up.
+
+I've noticed that the ``Lvpin LP-838'' amplifier I'm using is underpowered for my two front speakers \footnote{Although it seems it would work for one channel, so two of them might be enough. It's rated for 20W, so that is about 15-20W per channel req'd. It works at 20W for both, just that it heats up too much. Multiple ebay sellers have it misquoted at 200W. Just an extra 0, no biggie. Based on all this, it appears each channel of my car speaker needs about 15 watts to be on the safe side. The example schematic is 16 watts. Two should suffice.}, so I will make two of the provided 16 watt amps.
+
+\subsection{LM383 is Obsolete}
+That explains why I haven't heard of it. The chip is obsolete. Some sell it on ebay for about \$5 each.
+
+As a different route, could I use some other power amplifier op amp, with the same pinout? Hm... Aha, the LM1875 has the same pinout. Let's use that.\footnote{How did I find this? I searched Digikey for the LM383 sold by rochester, noted it was it the category of Linear - Amplifiers - Audio, chose that, then searched for everything in the same package (TO220-5). Came right up. If this hadn't worked, I would've wanted to try other sites: Farnells, Mouser, etc...}
+
+Will it work with the same schematic? Questionable. May still need to buy a LM383, along with the LM1875, as backup. Amplfiers are expensive bom item here.
+
+ 
+
+\section{References}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Scherz}
+  Paul Scherz, and Simon Monk,
+  \emph{Practical Electronics for Inventors}, fourth edition - 2016, McGraw Hill.
+
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/16.aux

@@ -0,0 +1,20 @@
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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {1}Overview}{1}}
+\@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {1}{\ignorespaces PCB rev 1\relax }}{1}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {2}Items Included}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.1}I2C OLED display}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.2}Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {3}Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {4}Arduino VReg Blowout}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {5}Amplifier}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {6}AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}{4}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {6.1}Ground Isolator}{4}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {6.2}Capacitor Audio Coupling}{4}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {6.2.1}Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}{5}}
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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {6.2.2}Wikipedia on Impedance}{5}}
+\citation{Scherz}
+\bibcite{Scherz}{1}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {7}DIY Amp}{6}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {7.1}LM383 is Obsolete}{6}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {8}References}{7}}

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+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+%\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\\
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Items Included}
+I thought I would include the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Arduino Nano
+\item Voltage and Gnd Breakout
+\item I2C Display
+\item Voltage Readout (of BAT)
+\item Current Readout (being drawn)
+\item Amplifier ``Lvpin LP-838''
+\end{itemize}
+I also wanted to have the connectors that eurorack and synth designers use for mono audio cables, but the cables turned out too expensive. The current readout didn't work initially, and I haven't gotten to fixing it yet.
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{Amplifier}
+The amplifier I used is one of the cheapest avialable on ebay. I'm not proud. I'm poor. I had to take it apart, and reseat the amplifier ICs as the tab was not making contact with the chassis for one of them. I also added thermal paste. This amp is underpowered for my car, and may need replacing. It gets a bit hot.
+
+Some other issues with this amplifier are that the output connectors can get pushed back, there is only one output connector option, and it must run on battery power, as a 12V 1A or 2A will not power it. Finally, there is a 6V DC bias on output. No output audio isolation, which means you get car noise.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.\footnote{A third option would've been to use a second set of batteries, but that would be laborious.}
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+\subsubsection{Wikipedia on Impedance}
+
+\emph{In general, a capacitor is seen as a storage component for electric energy. But this is only one capacitor function. A capacitor can also act as an AC resistor. Especially aluminum electrolytic capacitors are used in many applications as a decoupling capacitors to filter or bypass undesired biased AC frequencies to the ground or for capacitive coupling of audio AC signals. Then the dielectric is used only for blocking DC. For such applications the AC resistance, the impedance is as important as the capacitance value. }
+\begin{verbatim} https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php\title=Aluminum_electrolytic
+_capacitor&oldid=940281525
+\end{verbatim}
+Essentially, what I learned today.
+
+\section{DIY Amp}
+I was flipping through Practical Electronics for Inventors\cite{Scherz}(page 959), when I came across an audio amplifier. He also gives one at the chapter on Semiconductors (pg. 467), although the former is more detailed. With a reasonably simple schematic available, and a high likelihood of it working, I say why not: let's build it up.
+
+I've noticed that the ``Lvpin LP-838'' amplifier I'm using is underpowered for my two front speakers \footnote{Although it seems it would work for one channel, so two of them might be enough. It's rated for 20W, so that is about 15-20W per channel req'd. It works at 20W for both, just that it heats up too much. Multiple ebay sellers have it misquoted at 200W. Just an extra 0, no biggie. Based on all this, it appears each channel of my car speaker needs about 15 watts to be on the safe side. The example schematic is 16 watts. Two should suffice.}, so I will make two of the provided 16 watt amps.
+
+\subsection{LM383 is Obsolete}
+That explains why I haven't heard of it. The chip is obsolete. Some sell it on ebay for about \$5 each.
+
+As a different route, could I use some other power amplifier op amp, with the same pinout? Hm... Aha, the LM1875 has the same pinout. Let's use that.\footnote{How did I find this? I searched Digikey for the LM383 sold by rochester, noted it was it the category of Linear - Amplifiers - Audio, chose that, then searched for everything in the same package (TO220-5). Came right up. If this hadn't worked, I would've wanted to try other sites: Farnells, Mouser, etc...}
+
+Will it work with the same schematic? Questionable. May still need to buy a LM383, along with the LM1875, as backup. I might also try a generic power op amp.
+
+Amplfiers are the expensive bom item here.
+
+ 
+
+\section{References}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Scherz}
+  Paul Scherz, and Simon Monk,
+  \emph{Practical Electronics for Inventors}, fourth edition - 2016, McGraw Hill.
+
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+\end{document}

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+\citation{Scherz}
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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {7.1}LM383 is Obsolete}{6}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {8}Noise remains with Speaker Isolation}{6}}
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Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/17.tex

@@ -0,0 +1,119 @@
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+%\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\\
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Items Included}
+I thought I would include the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Arduino Nano
+\item Voltage and Gnd Breakout
+\item I2C Display
+\item Voltage Readout (of BAT)
+\item Current Readout (being drawn)
+\item Amplifier ``Lvpin LP-838''
+\end{itemize}
+I also wanted to have the connectors that eurorack and synth designers use for mono audio cables, but the cables turned out too expensive. The current readout didn't work initially, and I haven't gotten to fixing it yet.
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{Amplifier}
+The amplifier I used is one of the cheapest avialable on ebay. I'm not proud. I'm poor. I had to take it apart, and reseat the amplifier ICs as the tab was not making contact with the chassis for one of them. I also added thermal paste. This amp is underpowered for my car, and may need replacing. It gets a bit hot.
+
+Some other issues with this amplifier are that the output connectors can get pushed back, there is only one output connector option, and it must run on battery power, as a 12V 1A or 2A will not power it. Finally, there is a 6V DC bias on output. No output audio isolation, which means you get car noise.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.\footnote{A third option would've been to use a second set of batteries, but that would be laborious.}
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+\subsubsection{Wikipedia on Impedance}
+
+\emph{In general, a capacitor is seen as a storage component for electric energy. But this is only one capacitor function. A capacitor can also act as an AC resistor. Especially aluminum electrolytic capacitors are used in many applications as a decoupling capacitors to filter or bypass undesired biased AC frequencies to the ground or for capacitive coupling of audio AC signals. Then the dielectric is used only for blocking DC. For such applications the AC resistance, the impedance is as important as the capacitance value. }
+\begin{verbatim} https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php\title=Aluminum_electrolytic
+_capacitor&oldid=940281525
+\end{verbatim}
+Essentially, what I learned today.
+
+\section{DIY Amp}
+I was flipping through Practical Electronics for Inventors\cite{Scherz}(page 959), when I came across an audio amplifier. He also gives one at the chapter on Semiconductors (pg. 467), although the former is more detailed. With a reasonably simple schematic available, and a high likelihood of it working, I say why not: let's build it up.
+
+I've noticed that the ``Lvpin LP-838'' amplifier I'm using is underpowered for my two front speakers \footnote{Although it seems it would work for one channel, so two of them might be enough. It's rated for 20W, so that is about 15-20W per channel req'd. It works at 20W for both, just that it heats up too much. Multiple ebay sellers have it misquoted at 200W. Just an extra 0, no biggie. Based on all this, it appears each channel of my car speaker needs about 15 watts to be on the safe side. The example schematic is 16 watts. Two should suffice.}, so I will make two of the provided 16 watt amps.
+
+\subsection{LM383 is Obsolete}
+That explains why I haven't heard of it. The chip is obsolete. Some sell it on ebay for about \$5 each.
+
+As a different route, could I use some other power amplifier op amp, with the same pinout? Hm... Aha, the LM1875 has the same pinout. Let's use that.\footnote{How did I find this? I searched Digikey for the LM383 sold by rochester, noted it was it the category of Linear - Amplifiers - Audio, chose that, then searched for everything in the same package (TO220-5). Came right up. If this hadn't worked, I would've wanted to try other sites: Farnells, Mouser, etc...}
+
+Will it work with the same schematic? Questionable. May still need to buy a LM383, along with the LM1875, as backup. I might also try a generic power op amp.
+
+Amplfiers are the expensive bom item here.
+
+\section{Noise remains with Speaker Isolation}
+I've isolated the speakers from DC with the caps, but noise remains. My next idea was a DC-DC isolated supply. But, I found two threads on eevblog forums\cite{eevblog}, and they recommend a power line filter (they also mention the isolated supply). A filter with a coil and cap (2200uf even low enough) I can quickly build up.
+
+I also want to fix up my portable CRO, I obtained the other day. That needs batteries.
+ 
+
+\section{References}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Scherz}
+  Paul Scherz, and Simon Monk,
+  \emph{Practical Electronics for Inventors}, fourth edition - 2016, McGraw Hill.
+
+\bibitem{eevblog}
+  Various, \emph{https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/dreaded-alternator-whine-in-car-stereo/25/} Retrieved 2020-02-21. see also https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/car-engine-signal-interference-with-cell-phone/
+
+\bibitem{partofthe}
+  \emph{https://partofthething.com/thoughts/building-a-low-pass-filter-to-remove-alternator-whine-in-my-car/}. Picture guide and showing basic build in project box. Eevblog users mention you may be able to use the secondary of a transformer, to avoid building the coil.
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/17.tex~

@@ -0,0 +1,117 @@
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+%\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\\
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Items Included}
+I thought I would include the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Arduino Nano
+\item Voltage and Gnd Breakout
+\item I2C Display
+\item Voltage Readout (of BAT)
+\item Current Readout (being drawn)
+\item Amplifier ``Lvpin LP-838''
+\end{itemize}
+I also wanted to have the connectors that eurorack and synth designers use for mono audio cables, but the cables turned out too expensive. The current readout didn't work initially, and I haven't gotten to fixing it yet.
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{Amplifier}
+The amplifier I used is one of the cheapest avialable on ebay. I'm not proud. I'm poor. I had to take it apart, and reseat the amplifier ICs as the tab was not making contact with the chassis for one of them. I also added thermal paste. This amp is underpowered for my car, and may need replacing. It gets a bit hot.
+
+Some other issues with this amplifier are that the output connectors can get pushed back, there is only one output connector option, and it must run on battery power, as a 12V 1A or 2A will not power it. Finally, there is a 6V DC bias on output. No output audio isolation, which means you get car noise.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.\footnote{A third option would've been to use a second set of batteries, but that would be laborious.}
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+\subsubsection{Wikipedia on Impedance}
+
+\emph{In general, a capacitor is seen as a storage component for electric energy. But this is only one capacitor function. A capacitor can also act as an AC resistor. Especially aluminum electrolytic capacitors are used in many applications as a decoupling capacitors to filter or bypass undesired biased AC frequencies to the ground or for capacitive coupling of audio AC signals. Then the dielectric is used only for blocking DC. For such applications the AC resistance, the impedance is as important as the capacitance value. }
+\begin{verbatim} https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php\title=Aluminum_electrolytic
+_capacitor&oldid=940281525
+\end{verbatim}
+Essentially, what I learned today.
+
+\section{DIY Amp}
+I was flipping through Practical Electronics for Inventors\cite{Scherz}(page 959), when I came across an audio amplifier. He also gives one at the chapter on Semiconductors (pg. 467), although the former is more detailed. With a reasonably simple schematic available, and a high likelihood of it working, I say why not: let's build it up.
+
+I've noticed that the ``Lvpin LP-838'' amplifier I'm using is underpowered for my two front speakers \footnote{Although it seems it would work for one channel, so two of them might be enough. It's rated for 20W, so that is about 15-20W per channel req'd. It works at 20W for both, just that it heats up too much. Multiple ebay sellers have it misquoted at 200W. Just an extra 0, no biggie. Based on all this, it appears each channel of my car speaker needs about 15 watts to be on the safe side. The example schematic is 16 watts. Two should suffice.}, so I will make two of the provided 16 watt amps.
+
+\subsection{LM383 is Obsolete}
+That explains why I haven't heard of it. The chip is obsolete. Some sell it on ebay for about \$5 each.
+
+As a different route, could I use some other power amplifier op amp, with the same pinout? Hm... Aha, the LM1875 has the same pinout. Let's use that.\footnote{How did I find this? I searched Digikey for the LM383 sold by rochester, noted it was it the category of Linear - Amplifiers - Audio, chose that, then searched for everything in the same package (TO220-5). Came right up. If this hadn't worked, I would've wanted to try other sites: Farnells, Mouser, etc...}
+
+Will it work with the same schematic? Questionable. May still need to buy a LM383, along with the LM1875, as backup. I might also try a generic power op amp.
+
+Amplfiers are the expensive bom item here.
+
+\section{Noise remains with Speaker Isolation}
+I've isolated the speakers from DC with the caps, but noise remains. My next idea was a DC-DC isolated supply. But, I found two threads on eevblog forums\cite{eevblogforums}, and they recommend a power line filter (they also mention the isolated supply). A filter with a coil and cap (2200uf even low enough) I can quickly build up. 
+ 
+
+\section{References}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Scherz}
+  Paul Scherz, and Simon Monk,
+  \emph{Practical Electronics for Inventors}, fourth edition - 2016, McGraw Hill.
+
+\bibitem{eevblogforums}
+  Various, \emph{https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/dreaded-alternator-whine-in-car-stereo/25/} Retrieved 2020-02-21.
+
+  see also https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/car-engine-signal-interference-with-cell-phone/
+  
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/18.aux

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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {1}Overview}{1}}
+\@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {1}{\ignorespaces PCB rev 1\relax }}{1}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {2}Items Included}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.1}I2C OLED display}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.2}Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {3}Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {4}Arduino VReg Blowout}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {5}Amplifier}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {6}AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}{4}}
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+\@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {2}{\ignorespaces Ground Loop Isolator.\relax }}{4}}
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+\citation{Scherz}
+\@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {3}{\ignorespaces Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.\relax }}{6}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {6.2.2}Wikipedia on Impedance}{6}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {7}DIY Amp}{6}}
+\citation{eevblog}
+\bibcite{Scherz}{1}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {7.1}LM383 is Obsolete}{7}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {8}Noise remains with Speaker Isolation}{7}}
+\bibcite{eevblog}{2}
+\bibcite{partofthe}{3}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {9}References}{8}}

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Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/18.tex

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+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+%\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\\
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Items Included}
+I thought I would include the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Arduino Nano
+\item Voltage and Gnd Breakout
+\item I2C Display
+\item Voltage Readout (of BAT)
+\item Current Readout (being drawn)
+\item Amplifier ``Lvpin LP-838''
+\end{itemize}
+I also wanted to have the connectors that eurorack and synth designers use for mono audio cables, but the cables turned out too expensive. The current readout didn't work initially, and I haven't gotten to fixing it yet.
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{Amplifier}
+The amplifier I used is one of the cheapest avialable on ebay. I'm not proud. I'm poor. I had to take it apart, and reseat the amplifier ICs as the tab was not making contact with the chassis for one of them. I also added thermal paste. This amp is underpowered for my car, and may need replacing. It gets a bit hot.
+
+Some other issues with this amplifier are that the output connectors can get pushed back, there is only one output connector option, and it must run on battery power, as a 12V 1A or 2A will not power it. Finally, there is a 6V DC bias on output. No output audio isolation, which means you get car noise.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.\footnote{A third option would've been to use a second set of batteries, but that would be laborious.}
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+\\
+
+\begin{center}
+\includegraphics[scale=0.35]{../pics/DSCN2610.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{Ground Loop Isolator.}
+\end{center}
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+\subsubsection{Wikipedia on Impedance}
+
+\emph{In general, a capacitor is seen as a storage component for electric energy. But this is only one capacitor function. A capacitor can also act as an AC resistor. Especially aluminum electrolytic capacitors are used in many applications as a decoupling capacitors to filter or bypass undesired biased AC frequencies to the ground or for capacitive coupling of audio AC signals. Then the dielectric is used only for blocking DC. For such applications the AC resistance, the impedance is as important as the capacitance value. }
+\begin{verbatim} https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php\title=Aluminum_electrolytic
+_capacitor&oldid=940281525
+\end{verbatim}
+Essentially, what I learned today.
+
+\section{DIY Amp}
+I was flipping through Practical Electronics for Inventors\cite{Scherz}(page 959), when I came across an audio amplifier. He also gives one at the chapter on Semiconductors (pg. 467), although the former is more detailed. With a reasonably simple schematic available, and a high likelihood of it working, I say why not: let's build it up.
+
+I've noticed that the ``Lvpin LP-838'' amplifier I'm using is underpowered for my two front speakers \footnote{Although it seems it would work for one channel, so two of them might be enough. It's rated for 20W, so that is about 15-20W per channel req'd. It works at 20W for both, just that it heats up too much. Multiple ebay sellers have it misquoted at 200W. Just an extra 0, no biggie. Based on all this, it appears each channel of my car speaker needs about 15 watts to be on the safe side. The example schematic is 16 watts. Two should suffice.}, so I will make two of the provided 16 watt amps.
+
+\subsection{LM383 is Obsolete}
+That explains why I haven't heard of it. The chip is obsolete. Some sell it on ebay for about \$5 each.
+
+As a different route, could I use some other power amplifier op amp, with the same pinout? Hm... Aha, the LM1875 has the same pinout. Let's use that.\footnote{How did I find this? I searched Digikey for the LM383 sold by rochester, noted it was it the category of Linear - Amplifiers - Audio, chose that, then searched for everything in the same package (TO220-5). Came right up. If this hadn't worked, I would've wanted to try other sites: Farnells, Mouser, etc...}
+
+Will it work with the same schematic? Questionable. May still need to buy a LM383, along with the LM1875, as backup. I might also try a generic power op amp.
+
+Amplfiers are the expensive bom item here.
+
+\section{Noise remains with Speaker Isolation}
+I've isolated the speakers from DC with the caps, but noise remains. My next idea was a DC-DC isolated supply. But, I found two threads on eevblog forums\cite{eevblog}, and they recommend a power line filter (they also mention the isolated supply). A filter with a coil and cap (2200uf even low enough) I can quickly build up.
+
+I also want to fix up my portable CRO, I obtained the other day. That needs batteries.
+ 
+
+\section{References}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Scherz}
+  Paul Scherz, and Simon Monk,
+  \emph{Practical Electronics for Inventors}, fourth edition - 2016, McGraw Hill.
+
+\bibitem{eevblog}
+  Various, \emph{https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/dreaded-alternator-whine-in-car-stereo/25/} Retrieved 2020-02-21. see also https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/car-engine-signal-interference-with-cell-phone/
+
+\bibitem{partofthe}
+  \emph{https://partofthething.com/thoughts/building-a-low-pass-filter-to-remove-alternator-whine-in-my-car/}. Picture guide and showing basic build in project box. Eevblog users mention you may be able to use the secondary of a transformer, to avoid building the coil.
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+\end{document}

Car_Stereo_Replacement/docs/18.tex~

@@ -0,0 +1,123 @@
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\title{\textbf{Car Stereo Replacement}}
+\usepackage{graphicx,caption}
+%\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{02/13/20}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\section{Overview}
+Replacing a car stereo. I could just go to ebay, and buy a used car stereo, but where's the fun in that? Let's DIY a car stereo from a PCB used as a frontplate, a connector for my vehicle, and an audio amplifier. I'll connect in signal from an audio player.
+\\
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2180.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{PCB rev 1}
+
+\section{Items Included}
+I thought I would include the following:
+\begin{itemize}
+\item Arduino Nano
+\item Voltage and Gnd Breakout
+\item I2C Display
+\item Voltage Readout (of BAT)
+\item Current Readout (being drawn)
+\item Amplifier ``Lvpin LP-838''
+\end{itemize}
+I also wanted to have the connectors that eurorack and synth designers use for mono audio cables, but the cables turned out too expensive. The current readout didn't work initially, and I haven't gotten to fixing it yet.
+\subsection{I2C OLED display}
+Just for fun, I bought an I2C oled display and am going to use it to display something.\footnote{It's an Arduino Uno, you can put almost anything on this.} Notes on this:
+Using the adafruit SSD1306 and GFX library (this procedure is well covered in other places), you can load an example sketch and get it running. First thing to change is to remove the Adafruit logo and replace it with my own. Let's do that.
+
+From https://design.goeszen.com/convert-image-for-oled-display.html
+\begin{verbatim}
+I'm on Linux here and found that the readily-available 
+ImageMagick package will do the trick for you without
+ any scripting. And runs on the CLI! Simple as that:
+
+    convert some_image.png some.image.mono
+\end{verbatim}
+That's efficient. But it didn't really work out. Too much work, I don't need it that bad. Have to convert it to something the c compiler can read. I instead, just deleted their logo. Good enough for now.
+\subsection{Internal AVR Temperature Sensor}
+
+I setup the code to read from the internal temp sensor on the duino. However there is also this:
+
+https://thecavepearlproject.org/2019/02/25/no-parts-temperature-measurement-with-arduino-pro-mini-to-0-005c-or-better/
+
+This would be something to do for more resolution. The built in sensor is not very good, so this above link would be great. Hack a day also covers it. 
+
+\section{Wiring Pinout is wrong on Internet - Cable has labels}
+I looked at the picture I have detailing the pinout of my car connector (Delco Delphi radio wiring diagram.jpg in resources). It's close, but not 100\% correct. I found that the cable itself has small text labels on each wire which explain which everything does. I didn't notice earlier, as I didn't look close enough (and no one mentioned this).
+
+\section{Arduino VReg Blowout}
+I had a knock off Arduino Nano, and the vreg blew out. I have some other vregs to replace it. I didn't have this problem with an Uno that I use as a ceiling dome light. Although that one is not left on as long, usually. 
+
+\section{Amplifier}
+The amplifier I used is one of the cheapest avialable on ebay. I'm not proud. I'm poor. I had to take it apart, and reseat the amplifier ICs as the tab was not making contact with the chassis for one of them. I also added thermal paste. This amp is underpowered for my car, and may need replacing. It gets a bit hot.
+
+Some other issues with this amplifier are that the output connectors can get pushed back, there is only one output connector option, and it must run on battery power, as a 12V 1A or 2A will not power it. Finally, there is a 6V DC bias on output. No output audio isolation, which means you get car noise.
+
+\section{AC Audio Coupling to Remove DC Noise from Auto}
+I had some fun with this one. Many videos on this in the video folder. I started with the speakers being directly fed by the amplifier. This worked, but there was some noise coming through. Cars are noisy, this is not surprising. I would've preferred the amplifier to isolate the outputs, but no luck... At this point, I considered two options to block DC and allow AC. 1) Use a transformer. 2) Use capacitors.\footnote{A third option would've been to use a second set of batteries, but that would be laborious.}
+
+\subsection{Ground Isolator}
+I had been given a Ground isolator, which was two small transformers on a pcb intended to pass audio from a car powered signal source into the car speakers. I tried this isolator on the output of the speakers, and while it worked, the volume was lower, and it was impractical. I knew as soon as I heard the volume, that the issue was an impedance matching problem. The transformers were too small. They were intended for signal sources, not amplifier outputs. Onto option \#2.
+
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/DSCN2610.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{Ground Loop Isolator.}
+
+\subsection{Capacitor Audio Coupling}
+My initial thoughts here were: ``Let's be careful and use non polarized caps''. I bought some 0.22uf and 0.022uf polyester film capacitors at Electronics Plus, the local radioshack replacement, and tried them. No sound. After adjusting the connectors on the amp (which were admittedly loose - it's easy to push them back on the amplifier if you are not careful) I found that the capacitors didn't work. One problem was evident in the oscope. I only used one capacitor on the + output of the speaker amp, but the Amp biases the signal 6 volts. So I needed two. After that was resolved, the signal came through on the output of the capacitor, as viewed on the scope, however there was no sound output. I tried the safe way. It's time to break some rules. 
+
+I grabbed some 1uf (electrolytic polarized) caps I had, and tried these. Again, no sound. Not giving up, I grabbed some 1000uf 'lytics, and tried once more. Now it worked.
+
+\subsubsection{Impedance / ESR of capacitors failing to pass enough power of signal}
+Capacitors are rated for impedance. Some data sheets also call this ESR, it appears after a quick look. It's either in there as impedance or ESR. It's not initially an issue if you are using the capacitor as a DC reservoir, but if you use it in an AC coupling situation then things get interesting. A high impedance, or ESR will block what a low one won't. In this example, it's as simple as the Amplfier either being able to power a speaker or not. Higher capacity caps will have lower impedance. See the picture. Other brands put impedance in a graph, or just call it impedance. 
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/esr_impedance_capacitance.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Notice how impedance jumps very fast with a 1uf cap, compared to the higher values. Additionally, different brands will have different impedances for a similar value cap.}
+
+\subsubsection{Wikipedia on Impedance}
+
+\emph{In general, a capacitor is seen as a storage component for electric energy. But this is only one capacitor function. A capacitor can also act as an AC resistor. Especially aluminum electrolytic capacitors are used in many applications as a decoupling capacitors to filter or bypass undesired biased AC frequencies to the ground or for capacitive coupling of audio AC signals. Then the dielectric is used only for blocking DC. For such applications the AC resistance, the impedance is as important as the capacitance value. }
+\begin{verbatim} https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php\title=Aluminum_electrolytic
+_capacitor&oldid=940281525
+\end{verbatim}
+Essentially, what I learned today.
+
+\section{DIY Amp}
+I was flipping through Practical Electronics for Inventors\cite{Scherz}(page 959), when I came across an audio amplifier. He also gives one at the chapter on Semiconductors (pg. 467), although the former is more detailed. With a reasonably simple schematic available, and a high likelihood of it working, I say why not: let's build it up.
+
+I've noticed that the ``Lvpin LP-838'' amplifier I'm using is underpowered for my two front speakers \footnote{Although it seems it would work for one channel, so two of them might be enough. It's rated for 20W, so that is about 15-20W per channel req'd. It works at 20W for both, just that it heats up too much. Multiple ebay sellers have it misquoted at 200W. Just an extra 0, no biggie. Based on all this, it appears each channel of my car speaker needs about 15 watts to be on the safe side. The example schematic is 16 watts. Two should suffice.}, so I will make two of the provided 16 watt amps.
+
+\subsection{LM383 is Obsolete}
+That explains why I haven't heard of it. The chip is obsolete. Some sell it on ebay for about \$5 each.
+
+As a different route, could I use some other power amplifier op amp, with the same pinout? Hm... Aha, the LM1875 has the same pinout. Let's use that.\footnote{How did I find this? I searched Digikey for the LM383 sold by rochester, noted it was it the category of Linear - Amplifiers - Audio, chose that, then searched for everything in the same package (TO220-5). Came right up. If this hadn't worked, I would've wanted to try other sites: Farnells, Mouser, etc...}
+
+Will it work with the same schematic? Questionable. May still need to buy a LM383, along with the LM1875, as backup. I might also try a generic power op amp.
+
+Amplfiers are the expensive bom item here.
+
+\section{Noise remains with Speaker Isolation}
+I've isolated the speakers from DC with the caps, but noise remains. My next idea was a DC-DC isolated supply. But, I found two threads on eevblog forums\cite{eevblog}, and they recommend a power line filter (they also mention the isolated supply). A filter with a coil and cap (2200uf even low enough) I can quickly build up.
+
+I also want to fix up my portable CRO, I obtained the other day. That needs batteries.
+ 
+
+\section{References}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Scherz}
+  Paul Scherz, and Simon Monk,
+  \emph{Practical Electronics for Inventors}, fourth edition - 2016, McGraw Hill.
+
+\bibitem{eevblog}
+  Various, \emph{https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/dreaded-alternator-whine-in-car-stereo/25/} Retrieved 2020-02-21. see also https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/car-engine-signal-interference-with-cell-phone/
+
+\bibitem{partofthe}
+  \emph{https://partofthething.com/thoughts/building-a-low-pass-filter-to-remove-alternator-whine-in-my-car/}. Picture guide and showing basic build in project box. Eevblog users mention you may be able to use the secondary of a transformer, to avoid building the coil.
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+\end{document}

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Car_Stereo_Replacement/pcb_amp/gerbers/pcb_amp.drl

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Car_Stereo_Replacement/pcb_amp/pcb_amp-cache.lib

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+EESchema-LIBRARY Version 2.4
+#encoding utf-8
+#
+# Connector_Barrel_Jack
+#
+DEF Connector_Barrel_Jack J 0 40 Y Y 1 F N
+F0 "J" 0 210 50 H V C CNN
+F1 "Connector_Barrel_Jack" 0 -200 50 H V C CNN
+F2 "" 50 -40 50 H I C CNN
+F3 "" 50 -40 50 H I C CNN
+ALIAS Jack-DC
+$FPLIST
+ BarrelJack*
+$ENDFPLIST
+DRAW
+A -130 100 25 901 -901 0 1 10 F -130 125 -130 75
+A -130 100 25 901 -901 0 1 10 N -130 125 -130 75
+S -200 150 200 -150 0 1 10 f
+S 145 125 -130 75 0 1 10 F
+P 2 0 1 10 200 100 150 100 N
+P 6 0 1 10 -150 -100 -100 -100 -50 -50 0 -100 100 -100 200 -100 N
+X ~ 1 300 100 100 L 50 50 1 1 P
+X ~ 2 300 -100 100 L 50 50 1 1 P
+ENDDRAW
+ENDDEF
+#
+# Connector_Conn_Coaxial
+#
+DEF Connector_Conn_Coaxial J 0 40 Y N 1 F N
+F0 "J" 10 120 50 H V C CNN
+F1 "Connector_Conn_Coaxial" 115 0 50 V V C CNN
+F2 "" 0 0 50 H I C CNN
+F3 "" 0 0 50 H I C CNN
+$FPLIST
+ *BNC*
+ *SMA*
+ *SMB*
+ *SMC*
+ *Cinch*
+$ENDFPLIST
+DRAW
+A -2 0 71 1636 0 0 1 10 N -70 20 70 0
+A -1 0 71 0 -1638 0 1 10 N 70 0 -70 -20
+C 0 0 20 0 1 8 N
+P 2 0 1 0 -100 0 -20 0 N
+P 2 0 1 0 0 -100 0 -70 N
+X In 1 -200 0 100 R 50 50 1 1 P
+X Ext 2 0 -200 100 U 50 50 1 1 P
+ENDDRAW
+ENDDEF
+#
+# Device_CP
+#
+DEF Device_CP C 0 10 N Y 1 F N
+F0 "C" 25 100 50 H V L CNN
+F1 "Device_CP" 25 -100 50 H V L CNN
+F2 "" 38 -150 50 H I C CNN
+F3 "" 0 0 50 H I C CNN
+$FPLIST
+ CP_*
+$ENDFPLIST
+DRAW
+S -90 20 -90 40 0 1 0 N
+S -90 20 90 20 0 1 0 N
+S 90 -20 -90 -40 0 1 0 F
+S 90 40 -90 40 0 1 0 N
+S 90 40 90 20 0 1 0 N
+P 2 0 1 0 -70 90 -30 90 N
+P 2 0 1 0 -50 110 -50 70 N
+X ~ 1 0 150 110 D 50 50 1 1 P
+X ~ 2 0 -150 110 U 50 50 1 1 P
+ENDDRAW
+ENDDEF
+#
+# Device_R
+#
+DEF Device_R R 0 0 N Y 1 F N
+F0 "R" 80 0 50 V V C CNN
+F1 "Device_R" 0 0 50 V V C CNN
+F2 "" -70 0 50 V I C CNN
+F3 "" 0 0 50 H I C CNN
+$FPLIST
+ R_*
+$ENDFPLIST
+DRAW
+S -40 -100 40 100 0 1 10 N
+X ~ 1 0 150 50 D 50 50 1 1 P
+X ~ 2 0 -150 50 U 50 50 1 1 P
+ENDDRAW
+ENDDEF
+#
+# Device_R_POT
+#
+DEF Device_R_POT RV 0 40 Y N 1 F N
+F0 "RV" -175 0 50 V V C CNN
+F1 "Device_R_POT" -100 0 50 V V C CNN
+F2 "" 0 0 50 H I C CNN
+F3 "" 0 0 50 H I C CNN
+$FPLIST
+ Potentiometer*
+$ENDFPLIST
+DRAW
+S 40 100 -40 -100 0 1 10 N
+P 2 0 1 0 100 0 60 0 N
+P 4 0 1 0 45 0 90 20 90 -20 45 0 F
+X 1 1 0 150 50 D 50 50 1 1 P
+X 2 2 150 0 50 L 50 50 1 1 P
+X 3 3 0 -150 50 U 50 50 1 1 P
+ENDDRAW
+ENDDEF
+#
+# power_+12V
+#
+DEF power_+12V #PWR 0 0 Y Y 1 F P
+F0 "#PWR" 0 -150 50 H I C CNN
+F1 "power_+12V" 0 140 50 H V C CNN
+F2 "" 0 0 50 H I C CNN
+F3 "" 0 0 50 H I C CNN
+DRAW
+P 2 0 1 0 -30 50 0 100 N
+P 2 0 1 0 0 0 0 100 N
+P 2 0 1 0 0 100 30 50 N
+X +12V 1 0 0 0 U 50 50 1 1 W N
+ENDDRAW
+ENDDEF
+#
+# power_GND
+#
+DEF power_GND #PWR 0 0 Y Y 1 F P
+F0 "#PWR" 0 -250 50 H I C CNN
+F1 "power_GND" 0 -150 50 H V C CNN
+F2 "" 0 0 50 H I C CNN
+F3 "" 0 0 50 H I C CNN
+DRAW
+P 6 0 1 0 0 0 0 -50 50 -50 0 -100 -50 -50 0 -50 N
+X GND 1 0 0 0 D 50 50 1 1 W N
+ENDDRAW
+ENDDEF
+#
+# pspice_OPAMP
+#
+DEF pspice_OPAMP U 0 10 Y Y 1 F N
+F0 "U" 150 125 50 H V L CNN
+F1 "pspice_OPAMP" 150 -125 50 H V L CNN
+F2 "" 0 0 50 H I C CNN
+F3 "" 0 0 50 H I C CNN
+DRAW
+P 4 0 1 10 200 0 -200 200 -200 -200 200 0 f
+X + 1 -300 100 100 R 50 50 1 1 I
+X - 2 -300 -100 100 R 50 50 1 1 I
+X ~ 3 300 0 100 L 50 50 1 1 O
+X V+ 4 -100 300 150 D 50 50 1 1 W
+X V- 5 -100 -300 150 U 50 50 1 1 W
+ENDDRAW
+ENDDEF
+#
+#End Library

Car_Stereo_Replacement/pcb_amp/pcb_amp.bak

@@ -0,0 +1,545 @@
+EESchema Schematic File Version 4
+EELAYER 26 0
+EELAYER END
+$Descr USLetter 11000 8500
+encoding utf-8
+Sheet 1 1
+Title ""
+Date ""
+Rev ""
+Comp ""
+Comment1 ""
+Comment2 ""
+Comment3 ""
+Comment4 ""
+$EndDescr
+$Comp
+L Connector:Conn_Coaxial J1
+U 1 1 5E4CB6F5
+P 2350 3350
+F 0 "J1" V 2587 3280 50  0000 C CNN
+F 1 "Conn_Coaxial" V 2496 3280 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "Connector_PinHeader_2.54mm:PinHeader_1x02_P2.54mm_Vertical" H 2350 3350 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 " ~" H 2350 3350 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    2350 3350
+	0    -1   -1   0   
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L power:GND #PWR0101
+U 1 1 5E4CB7A8
+P 2350 3550
+F 0 "#PWR0101" H 2350 3300 50  0001 C CNN
+F 1 "GND" H 2355 3377 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 2350 3550 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 2350 3550 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    2350 3550
+	1    0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L Device:CP C2
+U 1 1 5E4CB80B
+P 2900 3350
+F 0 "C2" V 3155 3350 50  0000 C CNN
+F 1 "10uf" V 3064 3350 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm" H 2900 3350 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 2900 3350 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    2900 3350
+	0    -1   -1   0   
+$EndComp
+Wire Wire Line
+	2550 3350 2750 3350
+Text Notes 1800 1725 0    50   ~ 0
+Schematic from Page 959 of\nPractical Electronics for\nInventors (Scherz, and Monk)\n4th Edition\n
+Text Notes 850  4550 0    50   ~ 0
+They recommend a 10uf Polarized\ncap. The cap MUST be high enough\nso that its impedance does not cut\ndown the audio signal. See my docs.\nA 10uf (or higher) is OK. a 1uf will NOT\nwork. Impedance increases exponentially or\nlogarithmicly\nas values go down in capacitance.\nValues even as high as 1000uf will be ok.\n(possibly higher). Being too low, will\nresult in impedance / esr (or aging of \ncap).\n\n
+$Comp
+L pspice:OPAMP U1
+U 1 1 5E4CBEC8
+P 3350 3450
+F 0 "U1" H 3650 3625 50  0000 L CNN
+F 1 "LM383" H 3675 3300 50  0000 L CNN
+F 2 "Package_TO_SOT_THT:TO-220-5_P3.4x3.7mm_StaggerOdd_Lead3.8mm_Vertical" H 3350 3450 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 3350 3450 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    3350 3450
+	1    0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L Device:CP C1
+U 1 1 5E4CC090
+P 2875 3925
+F 0 "C1" H 2993 3971 50  0000 L CNN
+F 1 "470uf" H 2993 3880 50  0000 L CNN
+F 2 "Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm" H 2913 3775 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 2875 3925 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    2875 3925
+	1    0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+Wire Wire Line
+	3050 3550 2875 3550
+Wire Wire Line
+	2875 3550 2875 3775
+Wire Wire Line
+	2875 4075 3650 4075
+$Comp
+L Device:R R1
+U 1 1 5E4CC157
+P 3650 3725
+F 0 "R1" H 3720 3771 50  0000 L CNN
+F 1 "R220" H 3720 3680 50  0000 L CNN
+F 2 "Resistor_SMD:R_0805_2012Metric_Pad1.15x1.40mm_HandSolder" V 3580 3725 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 3650 3725 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    3650 3725
+	1    0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L Device:R R2
+U 1 1 5E4CC1AE
+P 3650 4350
+F 0 "R2" H 3720 4396 50  0000 L CNN
+F 1 "R2.2" H 3720 4305 50  0000 L CNN
+F 2 "Resistor_SMD:R_0805_2012Metric_Pad1.15x1.40mm_HandSolder" V 3580 4350 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 3650 4350 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    3650 4350
+	1    0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+Wire Wire Line
+	3650 4200 3650 4075
+Connection ~ 3650 4075
+Wire Wire Line
+	3650 4075 3650 3875
+Wire Wire Line
+	3650 3575 3650 3450
+$Comp
+L power:GND #PWR0102
+U 1 1 5E4CC495
+P 3250 3750
+F 0 "#PWR0102" H 3250 3500 50  0001 C CNN
+F 1 "GND" H 3255 3577 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 3250 3750 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 3250 3750 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    3250 3750
+	1    0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L power:GND #PWR0103
+U 1 1 5E4CC570
+P 3650 4500
+F 0 "#PWR0103" H 3650 4250 50  0001 C CNN
+F 1 "GND" H 3655 4327 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 3650 4500 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 3650 4500 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    3650 4500
+	1    0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L Device:CP C3
+U 1 1 5E4CC659
+P 3400 2950
+F 0 "C3" V 3655 2950 50  0000 C CNN
+F 1 "0.2uf" V 3564 2950 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm" H 3438 2800 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 3400 2950 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    3400 2950
+	0    -1   -1   0   
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L power:+12V #PWR0104
+U 1 1 5E4CC70B
+P 3250 2550
+F 0 "#PWR0104" H 3250 2400 50  0001 C CNN
+F 1 "+12V" H 3265 2723 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 3250 2550 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 3250 2550 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    3250 2550
+	1    0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+Wire Wire Line
+	3250 2550 3250 2950
+Connection ~ 3250 2950
+Wire Wire Line
+	3250 2950 3250 3150
+$Comp
+L power:GND #PWR0105
+U 1 1 5E4CC7DD
+P 3550 2950
+F 0 "#PWR0105" H 3550 2700 50  0001 C CNN
+F 1 "GND" H 3555 2777 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 3550 2950 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 3550 2950 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    3550 2950
+	1    0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+Text Notes 3550 2100 0    50   ~ 0
+V+ can be\n+5 to 20V
+$Comp
+L power:GND #PWR0106
+U 1 1 5E4CCBDF
+P 7475 4200
+F 0 "#PWR0106" H 7475 3950 50  0001 C CNN
+F 1 "GND" H 7480 4027 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 7475 4200 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 7475 4200 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    7475 4200
+	-1   0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L Device:CP C10
+U 1 1 5E4CCBE5
+P 7475 3750
+F 0 "C10" H 7357 3796 50  0000 R CNN
+F 1 "100uf" H 7357 3705 50  0000 R CNN
+F 2 "Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm" H 7475 3750 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 7475 3750 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    7475 3750
+	-1   0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L pspice:OPAMP U2
+U 1 1 5E4CCBED
+P 6450 3400
+F 0 "U2" H 6775 3575 50  0000 L CNN
+F 1 "LM383" H 6775 3250 50  0000 L CNN
+F 2 "Package_TO_SOT_THT:TO-220-5_P3.4x3.7mm_StaggerOdd_Lead3.8mm_Vertical" H 6450 3400 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 6450 3400 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    6450 3400
+	-1   0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L Device:CP C9
+U 1 1 5E4CCBF3
+P 6925 3875
+F 0 "C9" H 7043 3921 50  0000 L CNN
+F 1 "470uf" H 7043 3830 50  0000 L CNN
+F 2 "Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm" H 6963 3725 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 6925 3875 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    6925 3875
+	-1   0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+Wire Wire Line
+	6750 3500 6925 3500
+Wire Wire Line
+	6925 3500 6925 3725
+Wire Wire Line
+	6925 4025 6150 4025
+$Comp
+L Device:R R4
+U 1 1 5E4CCBFC
+P 6150 3675
+F 0 "R4" H 6220 3721 50  0000 L CNN
+F 1 "R220" H 6220 3630 50  0000 L CNN
+F 2 "Resistor_SMD:R_0805_2012Metric_Pad1.15x1.40mm_HandSolder" V 6080 3675 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 6150 3675 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    6150 3675
+	-1   0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L Device:R R5
+U 1 1 5E4CCC02
+P 6150 4300
+F 0 "R5" H 6220 4346 50  0000 L CNN
+F 1 "R2.2" H 6220 4255 50  0000 L CNN
+F 2 "Resistor_SMD:R_0805_2012Metric_Pad1.15x1.40mm_HandSolder" V 6080 4300 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 6150 4300 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    6150 4300
+	-1   0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+Wire Wire Line
+	6150 4150 6150 4050
+Connection ~ 6150 4025
+Wire Wire Line
+	6150 4025 6150 3825
+Wire Wire Line
+	6150 3525 6150 3450
+$Comp
+L power:GND #PWR0107
+U 1 1 5E4CCC0C
+P 6550 3700
+F 0 "#PWR0107" H 6550 3450 50  0001 C CNN
+F 1 "GND" H 6555 3527 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 6550 3700 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 6550 3700 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    6550 3700
+	-1   0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L power:GND #PWR0108
+U 1 1 5E4CCC12
+P 6150 4450
+F 0 "#PWR0108" H 6150 4200 50  0001 C CNN
+F 1 "GND" H 6155 4277 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 6150 4450 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 6150 4450 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    6150 4450
+	-1   0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L Device:CP C8
+U 1 1 5E4CCC18
+P 6400 2900
+F 0 "C8" V 6655 2900 50  0000 C CNN
+F 1 "0.2uf" V 6564 2900 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm" H 6438 2750 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 6400 2900 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    6400 2900
+	0    1    -1   0   
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L power:+12V #PWR0109
+U 1 1 5E4CCC1E
+P 6550 2500
+F 0 "#PWR0109" H 6550 2350 50  0001 C CNN
+F 1 "+12V" H 6565 2673 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 6550 2500 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 6550 2500 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    6550 2500
+	-1   0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+Wire Wire Line
+	6550 2500 6550 2775
+Connection ~ 6550 2900
+Wire Wire Line
+	6550 2900 6550 3100
+$Comp
+L power:GND #PWR0110
+U 1 1 5E4CCC27
+P 6250 2900
+F 0 "#PWR0110" H 6250 2650 50  0001 C CNN
+F 1 "GND" H 6255 2727 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 6250 2900 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 6250 2900 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    6250 2900
+	-1   0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+Text Notes 4950 2500 0    50   ~ 0
+Additional\nOutput Caps\nare used to\nblock auto DC\nnoise.
+Wire Wire Line
+	7475 3300 7475 3600
+Wire Wire Line
+	7475 3900 7475 4200
+Wire Wire Line
+	6750 3300 7475 3300
+$Comp
+L Device:R R6
+U 1 1 5E4CE830
+P 7100 2775
+F 0 "R6" V 6893 2775 50  0000 C CNN
+F 1 "R1M" V 6984 2775 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "Resistor_SMD:R_0805_2012Metric_Pad1.15x1.40mm_HandSolder" V 7030 2775 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 7100 2775 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    7100 2775
+	0    1    1    0   
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L Device:R_POT RV1
+U 1 1 5E4CEB50
+P 7825 2975
+F 0 "RV1" H 7755 3021 50  0000 R CNN
+F 1 "R_POT" H 7755 2930 50  0000 R CNN
+F 2 "Potentiometer_THT:Potentiometer_Bourns_PTV09A-2_Single_Horizontal" H 7825 2975 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 7825 2975 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    7825 2975
+	-1   0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+Wire Wire Line
+	7250 2775 7825 2775
+Wire Wire Line
+	7825 2775 7825 2825
+$Comp
+L power:GND #PWR0111
+U 1 1 5E4CF924
+P 7825 3125
+F 0 "#PWR0111" H 7825 2875 50  0001 C CNN
+F 1 "GND" H 7830 2952 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 7825 3125 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 7825 3125 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    7825 3125
+	1    0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+Wire Wire Line
+	7675 2975 7475 2975
+Wire Wire Line
+	7475 2975 7475 3300
+Connection ~ 7475 3300
+Wire Wire Line
+	6950 2775 6550 2775
+Connection ~ 6550 2775
+Wire Wire Line
+	6550 2775 6550 2900
+Text Notes 7975 2600 0    50   ~ 0
+Volume\nCTRL\n(logarithmic type\npot)
+$Comp
+L Connector:Barrel_Jack J2
+U 1 1 5E4D048A
+P 4950 3150
+F 0 "J2" V 4959 2970 50  0000 R CNN
+F 1 "Barrel_Jack" V 4600 3025 50  0000 R CNN
+F 2 "Connector_BarrelJack:BarrelJack_Horizontal" H 5000 3110 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 5000 3110 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    4950 3150
+	0    -1   1    0   
+$EndComp
+Text Notes 4275 2700 0    50   ~ 0
+Barrel Plug\nIs Speaker\n(or just solder\nwire direct)
+$Comp
+L Device:CP C5
+U 1 1 5E4D0BE3
+P 4600 3450
+F 0 "C5" V 4855 3450 50  0000 C CNN
+F 1 "100uf" V 4764 3450 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm" H 4638 3300 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 4600 3450 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    4600 3450
+	0    -1   -1   0   
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L Device:CP C6
+U 1 1 5E4D0C8A
+P 5300 3450
+F 0 "C6" V 5045 3450 50  0000 C CNN
+F 1 "100uf" V 5136 3450 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm" H 5338 3300 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 5300 3450 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    5300 3450
+	0    1    1    0   
+$EndComp
+Wire Wire Line
+	5150 3450 5050 3450
+Wire Wire Line
+	4850 3450 4750 3450
+$Comp
+L Device:CP C4
+U 1 1 5E4D137E
+P 4325 3600
+F 0 "C4" H 4443 3646 50  0000 L CNN
+F 1 "0.2uf" H 4443 3555 50  0000 L CNN
+F 2 "Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm" H 4363 3450 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 4325 3600 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    4325 3600
+	1    0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L Device:CP C7
+U 1 1 5E4D1407
+P 5575 3600
+F 0 "C7" H 5693 3646 50  0000 L CNN
+F 1 "0.2uf" H 5693 3555 50  0000 L CNN
+F 2 "Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm" H 5613 3450 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 5575 3600 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    5575 3600
+	1    0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+Wire Wire Line
+	4450 3450 4325 3450
+Wire Wire Line
+	5450 3450 5575 3450
+$Comp
+L power:GND #PWR0112
+U 1 1 5E4D2210
+P 4325 3750
+F 0 "#PWR0112" H 4325 3500 50  0001 C CNN
+F 1 "GND" H 4330 3577 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 4325 3750 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 4325 3750 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    4325 3750
+	1    0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L power:GND #PWR0113
+U 1 1 5E4D226E
+P 5575 3750
+F 0 "#PWR0113" H 5575 3500 50  0001 C CNN
+F 1 "GND" H 5580 3577 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 5575 3750 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 5575 3750 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    5575 3750
+	1    0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+Wire Wire Line
+	4325 3450 4000 3450
+Connection ~ 4325 3450
+Connection ~ 3650 3450
+$Comp
+L Device:R R3
+U 1 1 5E4D2CE3
+P 4775 4050
+F 0 "R3" V 4568 4050 50  0000 C CNN
+F 1 "R220" V 4659 4050 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "Resistor_SMD:R_0805_2012Metric_Pad1.15x1.40mm_HandSolder" V 4705 4050 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 4775 4050 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    4775 4050
+	0    1    1    0   
+$EndComp
+Wire Wire Line
+	4625 4050 4000 4050
+Wire Wire Line
+	4000 4050 4000 3450
+Connection ~ 4000 3450
+Wire Wire Line
+	4000 3450 3650 3450
+Text Notes 3800 1250 0    150  ~ 0
+16 Watt Amplifier
+Wire Wire Line
+	5575 3450 6150 3450
+Connection ~ 5575 3450
+Connection ~ 6150 3450
+Wire Wire Line
+	6150 3450 6150 3400
+Text Label 3775 3450 0    50   ~ 0
+OP1OUT
+Text Label 5800 3450 0    50   ~ 0
+OP2OUT
+Text Label 7225 3300 0    50   ~ 0
+OP2NONINV
+Text Label 6850 3500 0    50   ~ 0
+OP2INV
+Text Label 3050 3350 1    50   ~ 0
+OP1NONINV
+Text Label 2875 3750 2    50   ~ 0
+OP1INV
+Text Label 2650 3350 0    50   ~ 0
+INPUT
+Text Label 4750 3450 0    50   ~ 0
+SPKOUT1
+Text Label 5125 3450 0    50   ~ 0
+SPKOUT2
+Wire Wire Line
+	4925 4050 6150 4050
+Connection ~ 6150 4050
+Wire Wire Line
+	6150 4050 6150 4025
+Text Label 7400 2775 0    50   ~ 0
+VOLPOT
+$Comp
+L Connector:Barrel_Jack J?
+U 1 1 5E4D7487
+P 6150 1650
+F 0 "J?" H 6205 1975 50  0000 C CNN
+F 1 "Barrel_Jack" H 6205 1884 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 6200 1610 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 6200 1610 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    6150 1650
+	1    0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L power:+12V #PWR?
+U 1 1 5E4D762B
+P 6450 1550
+F 0 "#PWR?" H 6450 1400 50  0001 C CNN
+F 1 "+12V" H 6465 1723 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 6450 1550 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 6450 1550 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    6450 1550
+	1    0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+$Comp
+L power:GND #PWR?
+U 1 1 5E4D7696
+P 6450 1750
+F 0 "#PWR?" H 6450 1500 50  0001 C CNN
+F 1 "GND" H 6455 1577 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 6450 1750 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 6450 1750 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    6450 1750
+	1    0    0    -1  
+$EndComp
+$EndSCHEMATC

Car_Stereo_Replacement/pcb_amp/pcb_amp.net

@@ -0,0 +1,319 @@
+(export (version D)
+  (design
+    (source /home/layoutdev/Desktop/code/documentation_general/Electronics_Projects_2019/Car_Stereo_Replacement/pcb_amp/pcb_amp.sch)
+    (date "Wed 19 Feb 2020 12:32:48 AM EST")
+    (tool "Eeschema 5.0.2+dfsg1-1~bpo9+1")
+    (sheet (number 1) (name /) (tstamps /)
+      (title_block
+        (title)
+        (company)
+        (rev)
+        (date)
+        (source pcb_amp.sch)
+        (comment (number 1) (value ""))
+        (comment (number 2) (value ""))
+        (comment (number 3) (value ""))
+        (comment (number 4) (value "")))))
+  (components
+    (comp (ref J1)
+      (value Conn_Coaxial)
+      (footprint Connector_PinHeader_2.54mm:PinHeader_1x02_P2.54mm_Vertical)
+      (datasheet " ~")
+      (libsource (lib Connector) (part Conn_Coaxial) (description "coaxial connector (BNC, SMA, SMB, SMC, Cinch/RCA, ...)"))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4CB6F5))
+    (comp (ref C2)
+      (value 10uf)
+      (footprint Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Device) (part CP) (description "Polarized capacitor"))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4CB80B))
+    (comp (ref U1)
+      (value LM383)
+      (footprint Package_TO_SOT_THT:TO-220-5_P3.4x3.7mm_StaggerOdd_Lead3.8mm_Vertical)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib pspice) (part OPAMP) (description "OPAmp symbol for simulation only"))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4CBEC8))
+    (comp (ref C1)
+      (value 470uf)
+      (footprint Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Device) (part CP) (description "Polarized capacitor"))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4CC090))
+    (comp (ref R1)
+      (value R220)
+      (footprint Resistor_SMD:R_0805_2012Metric_Pad1.15x1.40mm_HandSolder)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Device) (part R) (description Resistor))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4CC157))
+    (comp (ref R2)
+      (value R2.2)
+      (footprint Resistor_SMD:R_0805_2012Metric_Pad1.15x1.40mm_HandSolder)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Device) (part R) (description Resistor))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4CC1AE))
+    (comp (ref C3)
+      (value 0.2uf)
+      (footprint Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Device) (part CP) (description "Polarized capacitor"))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4CC659))
+    (comp (ref C10)
+      (value 100uf)
+      (footprint Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Device) (part CP) (description "Polarized capacitor"))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4CCBE5))
+    (comp (ref U2)
+      (value LM383)
+      (footprint Package_TO_SOT_THT:TO-220-5_P3.4x3.7mm_StaggerOdd_Lead3.8mm_Vertical)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib pspice) (part OPAMP) (description "OPAmp symbol for simulation only"))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4CCBED))
+    (comp (ref C9)
+      (value 470uf)
+      (footprint Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Device) (part CP) (description "Polarized capacitor"))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4CCBF3))
+    (comp (ref R4)
+      (value R220)
+      (footprint Resistor_SMD:R_0805_2012Metric_Pad1.15x1.40mm_HandSolder)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Device) (part R) (description Resistor))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4CCBFC))
+    (comp (ref R5)
+      (value R2.2)
+      (footprint Resistor_SMD:R_0805_2012Metric_Pad1.15x1.40mm_HandSolder)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Device) (part R) (description Resistor))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4CCC02))
+    (comp (ref C8)
+      (value 0.2uf)
+      (footprint Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Device) (part CP) (description "Polarized capacitor"))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4CCC18))
+    (comp (ref R6)
+      (value R1M)
+      (footprint Resistor_SMD:R_0805_2012Metric_Pad1.15x1.40mm_HandSolder)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Device) (part R) (description Resistor))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4CE830))
+    (comp (ref RV1)
+      (value R_POT)
+      (footprint Potentiometer_THT:Potentiometer_Bourns_PTV09A-2_Single_Horizontal)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Device) (part R_POT) (description Potentiometer))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4CEB50))
+    (comp (ref J2)
+      (value Barrel_Jack)
+      (footprint Connector_BarrelJack:BarrelJack_Horizontal)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Connector) (part Barrel_Jack) (description "DC Barrel Jack"))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4D048A))
+    (comp (ref C5)
+      (value 100uf)
+      (footprint Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Device) (part CP) (description "Polarized capacitor"))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4D0BE3))
+    (comp (ref C6)
+      (value 100uf)
+      (footprint Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Device) (part CP) (description "Polarized capacitor"))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4D0C8A))
+    (comp (ref C4)
+      (value 0.2uf)
+      (footprint Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Device) (part CP) (description "Polarized capacitor"))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4D137E))
+    (comp (ref C7)
+      (value 0.2uf)
+      (footprint Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Device) (part CP) (description "Polarized capacitor"))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4D1407))
+    (comp (ref R3)
+      (value R220)
+      (footprint Resistor_SMD:R_0805_2012Metric_Pad1.15x1.40mm_HandSolder)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Device) (part R) (description Resistor))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4D2CE3))
+    (comp (ref J3)
+      (value Barrel_Jack)
+      (footprint Connector_BarrelJack:BarrelJack_Horizontal)
+      (datasheet ~)
+      (libsource (lib Connector) (part Barrel_Jack) (description "DC Barrel Jack"))
+      (sheetpath (names /) (tstamps /))
+      (tstamp 5E4D7487)))
+  (libparts
+    (libpart (lib Connector) (part Barrel_Jack)
+      (aliases
+        (alias Jack-DC))
+      (description "DC Barrel Jack")
+      (docs ~)
+      (footprints
+        (fp BarrelJack*))
+      (fields
+        (field (name Reference) J)
+        (field (name Value) Barrel_Jack))
+      (pins
+        (pin (num 1) (name ~) (type passive))
+        (pin (num 2) (name ~) (type passive))))
+    (libpart (lib Connector) (part Conn_Coaxial)
+      (description "coaxial connector (BNC, SMA, SMB, SMC, Cinch/RCA, ...)")
+      (docs " ~")
+      (footprints
+        (fp *BNC*)
+        (fp *SMA*)
+        (fp *SMB*)
+        (fp *SMC*)
+        (fp *Cinch*))
+      (fields
+        (field (name Reference) J)
+        (field (name Value) Conn_Coaxial))
+      (pins
+        (pin (num 1) (name In) (type passive))
+        (pin (num 2) (name Ext) (type passive))))
+    (libpart (lib Device) (part CP)
+      (description "Polarized capacitor")
+      (docs ~)
+      (footprints
+        (fp CP_*))
+      (fields
+        (field (name Reference) C)
+        (field (name Value) CP))
+      (pins
+        (pin (num 1) (name ~) (type passive))
+        (pin (num 2) (name ~) (type passive))))
+    (libpart (lib Device) (part R)
+      (description Resistor)
+      (docs ~)
+      (footprints
+        (fp R_*))
+      (fields
+        (field (name Reference) R)
+        (field (name Value) R))
+      (pins
+        (pin (num 1) (name ~) (type passive))
+        (pin (num 2) (name ~) (type passive))))
+    (libpart (lib Device) (part R_POT)
+      (description Potentiometer)
+      (docs ~)
+      (footprints
+        (fp Potentiometer*))
+      (fields
+        (field (name Reference) RV)
+        (field (name Value) R_POT))
+      (pins
+        (pin (num 1) (name 1) (type passive))
+        (pin (num 2) (name 2) (type passive))
+        (pin (num 3) (name 3) (type passive))))
+    (libpart (lib pspice) (part OPAMP)
+      (description "OPAmp symbol for simulation only")
+      (docs ~)
+      (fields
+        (field (name Reference) U)
+        (field (name Value) OPAMP))
+      (pins
+        (pin (num 1) (name +) (type input))
+        (pin (num 2) (name -) (type input))
+        (pin (num 3) (name ~) (type output))
+        (pin (num 4) (name V+) (type power_in))
+        (pin (num 5) (name V-) (type power_in)))))
+  (libraries
+    (library (logical Connector)
+      (uri /usr/share/kicad/library/Connector.lib))
+    (library (logical Device)
+      (uri /usr/share/kicad/library/Device.lib))
+    (library (logical pspice)
+      (uri /usr/share/kicad/library/pspice.lib)))
+  (nets
+    (net (code 1) (name /SPKOUT1)
+      (node (ref J2) (pin 1))
+      (node (ref C5) (pin 2)))
+    (net (code 2) (name GND)
+      (node (ref C8) (pin 2))
+      (node (ref J3) (pin 2))
+      (node (ref C10) (pin 2))
+      (node (ref R2) (pin 2))
+      (node (ref R5) (pin 2))
+      (node (ref U1) (pin 5))
+      (node (ref C3) (pin 2))
+      (node (ref U2) (pin 5))
+      (node (ref C7) (pin 2))
+      (node (ref C4) (pin 2))
+      (node (ref J1) (pin 1))
+      (node (ref RV1) (pin 3)))
+    (net (code 3) (name /OP2NONINV)
+      (node (ref C10) (pin 1))
+      (node (ref U2) (pin 1))
+      (node (ref RV1) (pin 2)))
+    (net (code 4) (name /SPKOUT2)
+      (node (ref J2) (pin 2))
+      (node (ref C6) (pin 2)))
+    (net (code 5) (name /OP2OUT)
+      (node (ref U2) (pin 3))
+      (node (ref R4) (pin 1))
+      (node (ref C7) (pin 1))
+      (node (ref C6) (pin 1)))
+    (net (code 6) (name /VOLPOT)
+      (node (ref RV1) (pin 1))
+      (node (ref R6) (pin 1)))
+    (net (code 7) (name +12V)
+      (node (ref C3) (pin 1))
+      (node (ref R6) (pin 2))
+      (node (ref U1) (pin 4))
+      (node (ref U2) (pin 4))
+      (node (ref J3) (pin 1))
+      (node (ref C8) (pin 1)))
+    (net (code 8) (name /OP1OUT)
+      (node (ref C5) (pin 1))
+      (node (ref C4) (pin 1))
+      (node (ref U1) (pin 3))
+      (node (ref R1) (pin 1))
+      (node (ref R3) (pin 2)))
+    (net (code 9) (name /INPUT)
+      (node (ref C2) (pin 1))
+      (node (ref J1) (pin 2)))
+    (net (code 10) (name /OP1NONINV)
+      (node (ref C2) (pin 2))
+      (node (ref U1) (pin 1)))
+    (net (code 11) (name /OP1INV)
+      (node (ref U1) (pin 2))
+      (node (ref C1) (pin 1)))
+    (net (code 12) (name "Net-(C1-Pad2)")
+      (node (ref C1) (pin 2))
+      (node (ref R1) (pin 2))
+      (node (ref R2) (pin 1)))
+    (net (code 13) (name /OP2INV)
+      (node (ref C9) (pin 1))
+      (node (ref U2) (pin 2)))
+    (net (code 14) (name "Net-(C9-Pad2)")
+      (node (ref R3) (pin 1))
+      (node (ref R5) (pin 1))
+      (node (ref C9) (pin 2))
+      (node (ref R4) (pin 2)))))

Car_Stereo_Replacement/pcb_amp/pcb_amp.pro

@@ -0,0 +1,41 @@
+update=Tue 11 Oct 2016 05:25:07 PM PDT
+version=1
+last_client=kicad
+[cvpcb]
+version=1
+NetIExt=net
+[pcbnew]
+version=1
+PageLayoutDescrFile=
+LastNetListRead=
+PadDrill=0.600000000000
+PadDrillOvalY=0.600000000000
+PadSizeH=1.500000000000
+PadSizeV=1.500000000000
+PcbTextSizeV=1.016000000000
+PcbTextSizeH=1.016000000000
+PcbTextThickness=0.152400000000
+ModuleTextSizeV=1.016000000000
+ModuleTextSizeH=1.016000000000
+ModuleTextSizeThickness=0.152400000000
+SolderMaskClearance=0.003000000000
+SolderMaskMinWidth=0.004000000000
+DrawSegmentWidth=0.152400000000
+BoardOutlineThickness=0.152400000000
+ModuleOutlineThickness=0.152400000000
+[eeschema]
+version=1
+LibDir=
+[eeschema/libraries]
+[schematic_editor]
+version=1
+PageLayoutDescrFile=
+PlotDirectoryName=
+SubpartIdSeparator=0
+SubpartFirstId=65
+NetFmtName=
+SpiceForceRefPrefix=0
+SpiceUseNetNumbers=0
+LabSize=50
+[general]
+version=1

Car_Stereo_Replacement/pcb_amp/pcb_amp.sch

@@ -0,0 +1,545 @@
+EESchema Schematic File Version 4
+EELAYER 26 0
+EELAYER END
+$Descr USLetter 11000 8500
+encoding utf-8
+Sheet 1 1
+Title ""
+Date ""
+Rev ""
+Comp ""
+Comment1 ""
+Comment2 ""
+Comment3 ""
+Comment4 ""
+$EndDescr
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+F 3 " ~" H 2350 3350 50  0001 C CNN
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+F 2 "" H 2350 3550 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 2350 3550 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    2350 3550
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+P 2900 3350
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+F 1 "10uf" V 3064 3350 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm" H 2900 3350 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 2900 3350 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    2900 3350
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+$EndComp
+Wire Wire Line
+	2550 3350 2750 3350
+Text Notes 1800 1725 0    50   ~ 0
+Schematic from Page 959 of\nPractical Electronics for\nInventors (Scherz, and Monk)\n4th Edition\n
+Text Notes 850  4550 0    50   ~ 0
+They recommend a 10uf Polarized\ncap. The cap MUST be high enough\nso that its impedance does not cut\ndown the audio signal. See my docs.\nA 10uf (or higher) is OK. a 1uf will NOT\nwork. Impedance increases exponentially or\nlogarithmicly\nas values go down in capacitance.\nValues even as high as 1000uf will be ok.\n(possibly higher). Being too low, will\nresult in impedance / esr (or aging of \ncap).\n\n
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+F 3 "~" H 3350 3450 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    3350 3450
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+F 2 "Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm" H 2913 3775 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 2875 3925 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    2875 3925
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+Wire Wire Line
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+F 3 "~" H 3650 3725 50  0001 C CNN
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+F 0 "R2" H 3720 4396 50  0000 L CNN
+F 1 "R2.2" H 3720 4305 50  0000 L CNN
+F 2 "Resistor_SMD:R_0805_2012Metric_Pad1.15x1.40mm_HandSolder" V 3580 4350 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 3650 4350 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    3650 4350
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+Wire Wire Line
+	3650 4075 3650 3875
+Wire Wire Line
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+L power:GND #PWR0102
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+F 0 "#PWR0102" H 3250 3500 50  0001 C CNN
+F 1 "GND" H 3255 3577 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 3250 3750 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 3250 3750 50  0001 C CNN
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+F 0 "C3" V 3655 2950 50  0000 C CNN
+F 1 "0.2uf" V 3564 2950 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm" H 3438 2800 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 3400 2950 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    3400 2950
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+$EndComp
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+F 0 "#PWR0104" H 3250 2400 50  0001 C CNN
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+	1    3250 2550
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+Wire Wire Line
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+F 1 "GND" H 3555 2777 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 3550 2950 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 3550 2950 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    3550 2950
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+Text Notes 3550 2100 0    50   ~ 0
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+F 2 "Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm" H 7475 3750 50  0001 C CNN
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+F 2 "Package_TO_SOT_THT:TO-220-5_P3.4x3.7mm_StaggerOdd_Lead3.8mm_Vertical" H 6450 3400 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 6450 3400 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    6450 3400
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+F 2 "Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm" H 6963 3725 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 6925 3875 50  0001 C CNN
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+F 3 "~" H 6150 3675 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    6150 3675
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+F 1 "R2.2" H 6220 4255 50  0000 L CNN
+F 2 "Resistor_SMD:R_0805_2012Metric_Pad1.15x1.40mm_HandSolder" V 6080 4300 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 6150 4300 50  0001 C CNN
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+F 2 "Capacitor_THT:CP_Radial_D5.0mm_P2.50mm" H 6438 2750 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "~" H 6400 2900 50  0001 C CNN
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+F 1 "GND" H 6255 2727 50  0000 C CNN
+F 2 "" H 6250 2900 50  0001 C CNN
+F 3 "" H 6250 2900 50  0001 C CNN
+	1    6250 2900
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+Text Notes 4950 2500 0    50   ~ 0
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+F 3 "~" H 7100 2775 50  0001 C CNN
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+F 3 "~" H 7825 2975 50  0001 C CNN
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+F 3 "~" H 5000 3110 50  0001 C CNN
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+
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+l-
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+
+
+Underfull \hbox (badness 10000) in paragraph at lines 153--155
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FlammableGasSensor/docs/15.tex

@@ -0,0 +1,164 @@
+
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\usepackage{graphicx}
+\usepackage{caption}
+\usepackage{xcolor}
+\usepackage[vcentering,dvips]{geometry}
+\geometry{papersize={6in,9in},total={4.5in,6.8in}}
+
+\title{\textbf{Flammable Gas Sensor}}
+\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\tableofcontents
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Overview}}
+Shop needs a flammable gas sensor, for safety.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Chip Hunting}}
+I'm looking at the following:
+
+\begin{itemize}
+\item SGAS711
+\item 200K fixed resistor
+\item 1M potentiometer
+\item Arduino Nano (for speed)
+\item Ample Power Supply  They are recommending 7 Volts for the heater. So, one rated for 1A.
+\item led notifiers
+  \item Long cables to separate sensor from device. (optional)
+  
+\end{itemize}
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsection{Gas Sensor Tuning}}
+The flammable gas sensor has different sensitivities for different gases (see data sheet, Figure 8). I'm going to need to test for something specific, i.e. if the shop needs to watch out for acetone, I should test acetone. Of course, if enough of a flammable gas is in the air, it will set it off no matter what, but I should focus on what the danger is for calibrating.
+
+Based on the resistance chart, I'm going to use a fixed 200K and a 1M pot. Pots are to be avoided, but here we need to calibrate over time. For the response of the v divider, the sensor is not linear, but closer (though not quite) logarithmic. So what I will do, is have to use some math on the micro, and use the formula they give in the Datasheet, to get a logarithmic output that appears linear (figure 5). For my needs, it is good enough.
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.55]{../pics/resistances.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Application Note resistance table}
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsubsection{Fixed resistors}}
+If these sensors are consistent enough, possibly I could use fixed resistors later.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsubsection{Gas Sensor Power Usage}}
+Rated at 900mW for 7V, so about 150mA (128mA). I know from prior experience these things heat up, so we need plenty of power.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsubsection{PCB Layout}}
+The gas sensor must be sideways, as there is excessive dust in the shop so, the holes will be on the side. I will do a 90 degree edge mount pcb.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsection{Switcher}}
+STS1024S6V5 Seems like a fair option for now. Output is 6.5 volts which is enough. Will use a module. Need to make a footprint.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsection{Enclosure}}
+We need a box that is tall enough to be a cube. Also want square, not rectangular. I plan to have the leds light from the back of the pcb. The pcb will be the top cover / front. The top cover / front will be the box, put on its side, so dust doesn't collect on the leds. Need a cube.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{CAD Layout}}
+I found that Kicad step up in Freecad is helpful for making sure your board will fit the enclosure. A very helpful addition to an arsenal. Although I didn't test it until after rev 1. 
+\begin{center}
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/kicadstepup1.jpg}
+\captionof{figure}{Freecad has the ability to pull in boards from Kicad. Even without step file dependencies you can see how the PCB will fit a case}
+\end{center}
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{PCB Assembly}}
+Most of the board came out ok. Power section is routed right. I need to move the barrel plug further out of the board, so it fits with the case better. The one issue I overlooked
+was the A6, and A7 pins, which have no digital circuitry behind them. So I have some pins that can't light up. I'll have to bodge wires in, or respin the board. Simple fix. Oversight on my part, that's all. I assumed GPIO on all pins, but here are two analog pins that can't function as GPIO.
+
+\vspace{0.2in}
+
+I'll use D7, and D8. Looks like I also missed the wire from VSenseOut of the Gas sensor to the board. So that will go to A6. Technically, I missed a net on the schematic. 
+
+\vspace{0.2in}
+
+One other fail of the enclosure, is that the Arduino nano won't fit with female pin headers holding it in. This means, instead of easily being socketable, I'll have to solder the board in. Not a deal-breaker, but I would prefer the nano to be easily removable. I don't like soldering it on the board. In the future, I need to find a taller enclosure.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsection{Place Sensors on the Floor}}
+Being that at least some flammable gases are heavier than air\footnote{Reference: Plumbing, Rex Cauldwell, 2006, page 137 - Gas Heater Awareness - Great book.}(in our case, they are, your situation may vary) it is logical for us to put them on the floor. There are no rules, though so why not both? It would be interesting to see the LEDs responding differently at say waist height, and at your feet. That would indicate different gas in the air.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{In Consideration of ``Hazardous Locations''}}
+Up to this point, I have not paid any attention to official rules or standards regarding safety\footnote{Our environment is only dangerous when there is a gas leak (extremely rarely), so we are the least strict of the hazardous location types. In the US, this is Class 1, Division 2. Gas (class 1) can be present, but is not normally (division 2). We regularly have dust in our air, however it is silica and therefore inert / not explosive.}. The search term for a device like this that may be in an environment that can dangerous is \textbf{hazardous locations}. There are a few books on the subject I found (specifically for electronics in hazardous locations). I downloaded the PDF of a few online, but was not impressed with the writing quality enough to buy them with the exception of \emph{Electrical Installations in Hazardous Locations} by Peter Schram \cite{Schram}. There is also a succint Application note which covers a general overview in Linear Technology Magazine September 2009, also accessible online \cite{Pickard}. As a launchoff point, some discussion can also be found online in various forums \cite{EEVBlog}.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsection{What Class is my Company?}}
+Based on \cite{Fuchs}, we are a Class 1, Division 2. With the Class 1, being Group D, as we would have leaks of those gases. It's possible that certain areas (inside the reactors for example) may be a higher class.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsubsection{Encapsulated Fuses}}
+Encapsulated fuses are also referred to as UL913 online (e.g. in stores). UL913 is UL's \emph{Standard for Intrinsically Safe Apparatus and Associated Apparatus for Use in Class I, II, III, Division 1, Hazardous (Classified) Locations}. Another term to search for is \emph{intrinsically safe} on the parametric search for fuses. The cheapest intrinsically safe fuse in 1 quantity on Digikey is currently \$4.50. Ouch. Safety requirements sure help some people, just not the buyers. I see a market, for a blobbed fuse at \$1.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Existing Gas Detectors}}
+We have already purchased a commercial gas detector. This particular model is designed so that the control box is kept separated from the sensor. The sensor has a 30 foot cable. The control box is installed in the ceiling. \footnote{See in the git: teardowns 2019, the RKI instruments combustible gas sensor.}
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Switching Power Supply}}
+In search of a low part count, simple to deploy switcher I came across this in my rss (https://hackaday.com/2019/08/11/switching-over-to-smps-for-efficiency/). The LM2576 is easy enough to use instead of a lm317, and requires only a diode and inductor more. Here I need more power efficiency from the 12V input so that should work. A simple go-to switcher.
+
+\begin{center}
+\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN2209.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{Prototype}
+\end{center}
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Connecting the Sensor by a Wire}}
+Upon showing this to my family co. who wanted it, they mentioned they wanted a cable going to the sensor. I looked at the RKI Instruments flammable gas sensor, which we have a few of, and these used a 22 Gauge 4 conductor cable. That is \$50 for 100' of cable. A more DIY solution is to grab some 4 pair CAT5E or CAT6 and connect two wires to each screw terminal on the board. That is what I will do. Saves money, and should work no issue, up to the 30 feet max that I need. Any small box can be used for the sensors. I might build a pcb mount for those, or perhaps just some hot glue. Depends on what works the best, while being efficient.
+\\
+
+\begin{center}
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2193.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{A simple solution.}
+\end{center}
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Calibration}}
+This is the real task of this project. Making a gas sensor is easy, calibrating it, is another step. Thankfully, some companies sell calibration tanks. For calibration you might calibrate on the LEL or the lowest acceptable level before an alarm should be fired off for a given chemical. 
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{References}}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Schram}
+  Peter Schram,
+  \emph{Electrical Installations in Hazardous Locations}, first edition - 1991, National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), ISBN-13: 9780877653561.
+
+\bibitem{Pickard}
+  Murphy Pickard,
+  \emph{Surge Stopper IC Simplifies Design of Intrinsic Safety Barrier for Electronics Destined for Hazardous Environments}, Linear Technology Magazine September 2009, https://www.analog.com/en/technical-articles/surge-stopper-ic-simplifies-design-of-intrinsic-safety-barrier-for-electronics.html .
+
+\bibitem{EEVBlog}
+  Various,
+  \emph{Electronics Design for Explosive Envirionment}, EEVBlog Forums, https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/electronics-design-for-explosive-environment/?all, http://web.archive.org/web/20190410172437/http://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/electronics-design-for-explosive-environment/?all.
+
+\bibitem{Fuchs}
+  Various,
+  \emph{Explosion Protection and Intrinsic Safety 101}, Pepperl Fuchs, https://www.pepperl-fuchs.com/usa/downloads\_USA/explosion-protection-and-intrinsic-safety-101.pdf, http://web.archive.org/web/20190721221654/https://www.pepperl-fuchs.com/usa/downloads\_USA/explosion-protection-and-intrinsic-safety-101.pdf.
+
+  \bibitem{}
+  
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+
+
+
+\end{document}
+

FlammableGasSensor/docs/15.tex~

@@ -0,0 +1,164 @@
+
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\usepackage{graphicx}
+\usepackage{caption}
+\usepackage{xcolor}
+\usepackage[vcentering,dvips]{geometry}
+\geometry{papersize={6in,9in},total={4.5in,6.8in}}
+
+\title{\textbf{Flammable Gas Sensor}}
+\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\tableofcontents
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Overview}}
+Shop needs a flammable gas sensor, for safety.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Chip Hunting}}
+I'm looking at the following:
+
+\begin{itemize}
+\item SGAS711
+\item 200K fixed resistor
+\item 1M potentiometer
+\item Arduino Nano (for speed)
+\item Ample Power Supply  They are recommending 7 Volts for the heater. So, one rated for 1A.
+\item led notifiers
+  \item Long cables to separate sensor from device. (optional)
+  
+\end{itemize}
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsection{Gas Sensor Tuning}}
+The flammable gas sensor has different sensitivities for different gases (see data sheet, Figure 8). I'm going to need to test for something specific, i.e. if the shop needs to watch out for acetone, I should test acetone. Of course, if enough of a flammable gas is in the air, it will set it off no matter what, but I should focus on what the danger is for calibrating.
+
+Based on the resistance chart, I'm going to use a fixed 200K and a 1M pot. Pots are to be avoided, but here we need to calibrate over time. For the response of the v divider, the sensor is not linear, but closer (though not quite) logarithmic. So what I will do, is have to use some math on the micro, and use the formula they give in the Datasheet, to get a logarithmic output that appears linear (figure 5). For my needs, it is good enough.
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.65]{../pics/resistances.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Application Note resistance table}
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsubsection{Fixed resistors}}
+If these sensors are consistent enough, possibly I could use fixed resistors later.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsubsection{Gas Sensor Power Usage}}
+Rated at 900mW for 7V, so about 150mA (128mA). I know from prior experience these things heat up, so we need plenty of power.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsubsection{PCB Layout}}
+The gas sensor must be sideways, as there is excessive dust in the shop so, the holes will be on the side. I will do a 90 degree edge mount pcb.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsection{Switcher}}
+STS1024S6V5 Seems like a fair option for now. Output is 6.5 volts which is enough. Will use a module. Need to make a footprint.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsection{Enclosure}}
+We need a box that is tall enough to be a cube. Also want square, not rectangular. I plan to have the leds light from the back of the pcb. The pcb will be the top cover / front. The top cover / front will be the box, put on its side, so dust doesn't collect on the leds. Need a cube.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{CAD Layout}}
+I found that Kicad step up in Freecad is helpful for making sure your board will fit the enclosure. A very helpful addition to an arsenal. Although I didn't test it until after rev 1. 
+\begin{center}
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/kicadstepup1.jpg}
+\captionof{figure}{Freecad has the ability to pull in boards from Kicad. Even without step file dependencies you can see how the PCB will fit a case}
+\end{center}
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{PCB Assembly}}
+Most of the board came out ok. Power section is routed right. I need to move the barrel plug further out of the board, so it fits with the case better. The one issue I overlooked
+was the A6, and A7 pins, which have no digital circuitry behind them. So I have some pins that can't light up. I'll have to bodge wires in, or respin the board. Simple fix. Oversight on my part, that's all. I assumed GPIO on all pins, but here are two analog pins that can't function as GPIO.
+
+\vspace{0.2in}
+
+I'll use D7, and D8. Looks like I also missed the wire from VSenseOut of the Gas sensor to the board. So that will go to A6. Technically, I missed a net on the schematic. 
+
+\vspace{0.2in}
+
+One other fail of the enclosure, is that the Arduino nano won't fit with female pin headers holding it in. This means, instead of easily being socketable, I'll have to solder the board in. Not a deal-breaker, but I would prefer the nano to be easily removable. I don't like soldering it on the board. In the future, I need to find a taller enclosure.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsection{Place Sensors on the Floor}}
+Being that at least some flammable gases are heavier than air\footnote{Reference: Plumbing, Rex Cauldwell, 2006, page 137 - Gas Heater Awareness - Great book.}(in our case, they are, your situation may vary) it is logical for us to put them on the floor. There are no rules, though so why not both? It would be interesting to see the LEDs responding differently at say waist height, and at your feet. That would indicate different gas in the air.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{In Consideration of ``Hazardous Locations''}}
+Up to this point, I have not paid any attention to official rules or standards regarding safety\footnote{Our environment is only dangerous when there is a gas leak (extremely rarely), so we are the least strict of the hazardous location types. In the US, this is Class 1, Division 2. Gas (class 1) can be present, but is not normally (division 2). We regularly have dust in our air, however it is silica and therefore inert / not explosive.}. The search term for a device like this that may be in an environment that can dangerous is \textbf{hazardous locations}. There are a few books on the subject I found (specifically for electronics in hazardous locations). I downloaded the PDF of a few online, but was not impressed with the writing quality enough to buy them with the exception of \emph{Electrical Installations in Hazardous Locations} by Peter Schram \cite{Schram}. There is also a succint Application note which covers a general overview in Linear Technology Magazine September 2009, also accessible online \cite{Pickard}. As a launchoff point, some discussion can also be found online in various forums \cite{EEVBlog}.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsection{What Class is my Company?}}
+Based on \cite{Fuchs}, we are a Class 1, Division 2. With the Class 1, being Group D, as we would have leaks of those gases. It's possible that certain areas (inside the reactors for example) may be a higher class.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsubsection{Encapsulated Fuses}}
+Encapsulated fuses are also referred to as UL913 online (e.g. in stores). UL913 is UL's \emph{Standard for Intrinsically Safe Apparatus and Associated Apparatus for Use in Class I, II, III, Division 1, Hazardous (Classified) Locations}. Another term to search for is \emph{intrinsically safe} on the parametric search for fuses. The cheapest intrinsically safe fuse in 1 quantity on Digikey is currently \$4.50. Ouch. Safety requirements sure help some people, just not the buyers. I see a market, for a blobbed fuse at \$1.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Existing Gas Detectors}}
+We have already purchased a commercial gas detector. This particular model is designed so that the control box is kept separated from the sensor. The sensor has a 30 foot cable. The control box is installed in the ceiling. \footnote{See in the git: teardowns 2019, the RKI instruments combustible gas sensor.}
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Switching Power Supply}}
+In search of a low part count, simple to deploy switcher I came across this in my rss (https://hackaday.com/2019/08/11/switching-over-to-smps-for-efficiency/). The LM2576 is easy enough to use instead of a lm317, and requires only a diode and inductor more. Here I need more power efficiency from the 12V input so that should work. A simple go-to switcher.
+
+\begin{center}
+\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN2209.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{Prototype}
+\end{center}
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Connecting the Sensor by a Wire}}
+Upon showing this to my family co. who wanted it, they mentioned they wanted a cable going to the sensor. I looked at the RKI Instruments flammable gas sensor, which we have a few of, and these used a 22 Gauge 4 conductor cable. That is \$50 for 100' of cable. A more DIY solution is to grab some 4 pair CAT5E or CAT6 and connect two wires to each screw terminal on the board. That is what I will do. Saves money, and should work no issue, up to the 30 feet max that I need. Any small box can be used for the sensors. I might build a pcb mount for those, or perhaps just some hot glue. Depends on what works the best, while being efficient.
+\\
+
+\begin{center}
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2193.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{A simple solution.}
+\end{center}
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Calibration}}
+This is the real task of this project. Making a gas sensor is easy, calibrating it, is another step. Thankfully, some companies sell calibration tanks. For calibration you might calibrate on the LEL or the lowest acceptable level before an alarm should be fired off for a given chemical. 
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{References}}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Schram}
+  Peter Schram,
+  \emph{Electrical Installations in Hazardous Locations}, first edition - 1991, National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), ISBN-13: 9780877653561.
+
+\bibitem{Pickard}
+  Murphy Pickard,
+  \emph{Surge Stopper IC Simplifies Design of Intrinsic Safety Barrier for Electronics Destined for Hazardous Environments}, Linear Technology Magazine September 2009, https://www.analog.com/en/technical-articles/surge-stopper-ic-simplifies-design-of-intrinsic-safety-barrier-for-electronics.html .
+
+\bibitem{EEVBlog}
+  Various,
+  \emph{Electronics Design for Explosive Envirionment}, EEVBlog Forums, https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/electronics-design-for-explosive-environment/?all, http://web.archive.org/web/20190410172437/http://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/electronics-design-for-explosive-environment/?all.
+
+\bibitem{Fuchs}
+  Various,
+  \emph{Explosion Protection and Intrinsic Safety 101}, Pepperl Fuchs, https://www.pepperl-fuchs.com/usa/downloads\_USA/explosion-protection-and-intrinsic-safety-101.pdf, http://web.archive.org/web/20190721221654/https://www.pepperl-fuchs.com/usa/downloads\_USA/explosion-protection-and-intrinsic-safety-101.pdf.
+
+  \bibitem{}
+  
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+
+
+
+\end{document}
+

FlammableGasSensor/docs/15.toc

@@ -0,0 +1,19 @@
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {1}Overview}{2}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {2}Chip Hunting}{2}
+\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.1}Gas Sensor Tuning}{2}
+\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {2.1.1}Fixed resistors}{3}
+\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {2.1.2}Gas Sensor Power Usage}{3}
+\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {2.1.3}PCB Layout}{3}
+\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.2}Switcher}{3}
+\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.3}Enclosure}{3}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {3}CAD Layout}{4}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {4}PCB Assembly}{4}
+\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {4.1}Place Sensors on the Floor}{5}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {5}In Consideration of ``Hazardous Locations''}{5}
+\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.1}What Class is my Company?}{6}
+\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {5.1.1}Encapsulated Fuses}{6}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {6}Existing Gas Detectors}{6}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {7}Switching Power Supply}{6}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {8}Connecting the Sensor by a Wire}{7}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {9}Calibration}{8}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {10}References}{8}

FlammableGasSensor/docs/16.aux

@@ -0,0 +1,32 @@
+\relax 
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {1}Overview}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {2}Chip Hunting}{2}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.1}Gas Sensor Tuning}{2}}
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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {2.1.2}Gas Sensor Power Usage}{3}}
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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.2}Switcher}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.3}Enclosure}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {3}CAD Layout}{4}}
+\@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {2}{\ignorespaces Freecad has the ability to pull in boards from Kicad. Even without step file dependencies you can see how the PCB will fit a case\relax }}{4}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {4}PCB Assembly}{4}}
+\citation{Schram}
+\citation{Pickard}
+\citation{EEVBlog}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {4.1}Place Sensors on the Floor}{5}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {5}In Consideration of ``Hazardous Locations''}{5}}
+\citation{Fuchs}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.1}What Class is my Company?}{6}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {5.1.1}Encapsulated Fuses}{6}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {6}Existing Gas Detectors}{6}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {7}Switching Power Supply}{6}}
+\@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {3}{\ignorespaces Prototype\relax }}{7}}
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+\@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {4}{\ignorespaces A simple solution.\relax }}{8}}
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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {10}References}{8}}
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+\bibcite{EEVBlog}{3}
+\bibcite{Fuchs}{4}

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FlammableGasSensor/docs/16.tex

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+
+\documentclass[11pt]{article}
+%Gummi|065|=)
+\usepackage{graphicx}
+\usepackage{caption}
+\usepackage{xcolor}
+\usepackage[vcentering,dvips]{geometry}
+\geometry{papersize={6in,9in},total={4.5in,6.8in}}
+
+\title{\textbf{Flammable Gas Sensor}}
+\author{Steak Electronics}
+\date{}
+\begin{document}
+
+\maketitle
+
+\tableofcontents
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Overview}}
+Shop needs a flammable gas sensor, for safety.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Chip Hunting}}
+I'm looking at the following:
+
+\begin{itemize}
+\item SGAS711
+\item 200K fixed resistor
+\item 1M potentiometer
+\item Arduino Nano (for speed)
+\item Ample Power Supply  They are recommending 7 Volts for the heater. So, one rated for 1A.
+\item led notifiers
+  \item Long cables to separate sensor from device. (optional)
+  
+\end{itemize}
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsection{Gas Sensor Tuning}}
+The flammable gas sensor has different sensitivities for different gases (see data sheet, Figure 8). I'm going to need to test for something specific, i.e. if the shop needs to watch out for acetone, I should test acetone. Of course, if enough of a flammable gas is in the air, it will set it off no matter what, but I should focus on what the danger is for calibrating.
+
+Based on the resistance chart, I'm going to use a fixed 200K and a 1M pot. Pots are to be avoided, but here we need to calibrate over time. For the response of the v divider, the sensor is not linear, but closer (though not quite) logarithmic. So what I will do, is have to use some math on the micro, and use the formula they give in the Datasheet, to get a logarithmic output that appears linear (figure 5). For my needs, it is good enough.
+
+\includegraphics[scale=0.55]{../pics/resistances.png}
+\captionof{figure}{Application Note resistance table}
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsubsection{Fixed resistors}}
+If these sensors are consistent enough, possibly I could use fixed resistors later.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsubsection{Gas Sensor Power Usage}}
+Rated at 900mW for 7V, so about 150mA (128mA). I know from prior experience these things heat up, so we need plenty of power.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsubsection{PCB Layout}}
+The gas sensor must be sideways, as there is excessive dust in the shop so, the holes will be on the side. I will do a 90 degree edge mount pcb.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsection{Switcher}}
+STS1024S6V5 Seems like a fair option for now. Output is 6.5 volts which is enough. Will use a module. Need to make a footprint.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsection{Enclosure}}
+We need a box that is tall enough to be a cube. Also want square, not rectangular. I plan to have the leds light from the back of the pcb. The pcb will be the top cover / front. The top cover / front will be the box, put on its side, so dust doesn't collect on the leds. Need a cube.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{CAD Layout}}
+I found that Kicad step up in Freecad is helpful for making sure your board will fit the enclosure. A very helpful addition to an arsenal. Although I didn't test it until after rev 1. 
+\begin{center}
+\includegraphics[scale=0.5]{../pics/kicadstepup1.jpg}
+\captionof{figure}{Freecad has the ability to pull in boards from Kicad. Even without step file dependencies you can see how the PCB will fit a case}
+\end{center}
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{PCB Assembly}}
+Most of the board came out ok. Power section is routed right. I need to move the barrel plug further out of the board, so it fits with the case better. The one issue I overlooked
+was the A6, and A7 pins, which have no digital circuitry behind them. So I have some pins that can't light up. I'll have to bodge wires in, or respin the board. Simple fix. Oversight on my part, that's all. I assumed GPIO on all pins, but here are two analog pins that can't function as GPIO.
+
+\vspace{0.2in}
+
+I'll use D7, and D8. Looks like I also missed the wire from VSenseOut of the Gas sensor to the board. So that will go to A6. Technically, I missed a net on the schematic. 
+
+\vspace{0.2in}
+
+One other fail of the enclosure, is that the Arduino nano won't fit with female pin headers holding it in. This means, instead of easily being socketable, I'll have to solder the board in. Not a deal-breaker, but I would prefer the nano to be easily removable. I don't like soldering it on the board. In the future, I need to find a taller enclosure.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsection{Place Sensors on the Floor}}
+Being that at least some flammable gases are heavier than air\footnote{Reference: Plumbing, Rex Cauldwell, 2006, page 137 - Gas Heater Awareness - Great book.}(in our case, they are, your situation may vary) it is logical for us to put them on the floor. There are no rules, though so why not both? It would be interesting to see the LEDs responding differently at say waist height, and at your feet. That would indicate different gas in the air.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{In Consideration of ``Hazardous Locations''}}
+Up to this point, I have not paid any attention to official rules or standards regarding safety\footnote{Our environment is only dangerous when there is a gas leak (extremely rarely), so we are the least strict of the hazardous location types. In the US, this is Class 1, Division 2. Gas (class 1) can be present, but is not normally (division 2). We regularly have dust in our air, however it is silica and therefore inert / not explosive.}. The search term for a device like this that may be in an environment that can dangerous is \textbf{hazardous locations}. There are a few books on the subject I found (specifically for electronics in hazardous locations). I downloaded the PDF of a few online, but was not impressed with the writing quality enough to buy them with the exception of \emph{Electrical Installations in Hazardous Locations} by Peter Schram \cite{Schram}. There is also a succint Application note which covers a general overview in Linear Technology Magazine September 2009, also accessible online \cite{Pickard}. As a launchoff point, some discussion can also be found online in various forums \cite{EEVBlog}.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsection{What Class is my Company?}}
+Based on \cite{Fuchs}, we are a Class 1, Division 2. With the Class 1, being Group D, as we would have leaks of those gases. It's possible that certain areas (inside the reactors for example) may be a higher class.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\subsubsection{Encapsulated Fuses}}
+Encapsulated fuses are also referred to as UL913 online (e.g. in stores). UL913 is UL's \emph{Standard for Intrinsically Safe Apparatus and Associated Apparatus for Use in Class I, II, III, Division 1, Hazardous (Classified) Locations}. Another term to search for is \emph{intrinsically safe} on the parametric search for fuses. The cheapest intrinsically safe fuse in 1 quantity on Digikey is currently \$4.50. Ouch. Safety requirements sure help some people, just not the buyers. I see a market, for a blobbed fuse at \$1.
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Existing Gas Detectors}}
+We have already purchased a commercial gas detector. This particular model is designed so that the control box is kept separated from the sensor. The sensor has a 30 foot cable. The control box is installed in the ceiling. \footnote{See in the git: teardowns 2019, the RKI instruments combustible gas sensor.}
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Switching Power Supply}}
+In search of a low part count, simple to deploy switcher I came across this in my rss (https://hackaday.com/2019/08/11/switching-over-to-smps-for-efficiency/). The LM2576 is easy enough to use instead of a lm317, and requires only a diode and inductor more. Here I need more power efficiency from the 12V input so that should work. A simple go-to switcher.
+
+\begin{center}
+\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN2209.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{Prototype}
+\end{center}
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Connecting the Sensor by a Wire}}
+Upon showing this to my family co. who wanted it, they mentioned they wanted a cable going to the sensor. I looked at the RKI Instruments flammable gas sensor, which we have a few of, and these used a 22 Gauge 4 conductor cable. That is \$50 for 100' of cable. A more DIY solution is to grab some 4 pair CAT5E or CAT6 and connect two wires to each screw terminal on the board. That is what I will do. Saves money, and should work no issue, up to the 30 feet max that I need. Any small box can be used for the sensors. I might build a pcb mount for those, or perhaps just some hot glue. Depends on what works the best, while being efficient.
+\\
+
+\begin{center}
+\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN2193.JPG}
+\captionof{figure}{A simple solution.}
+\end{center}
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{Calibration}}
+This is the real task of this project. Making a gas sensor is easy, calibrating it, is another step. Thankfully, some companies sell calibration tanks. For calibration you might calibrate on the LEL or the lowest acceptable level before an alarm should be fired off for a given chemical. 
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+\textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
+\section{References}}
+\begin{thebibliography}{99}
+\bibitem{Schram}
+  Peter Schram,
+  \emph{Electrical Installations in Hazardous Locations}, first edition - 1991, National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), ISBN-13: 9780877653561.
+
+\bibitem{Pickard}
+  Murphy Pickard,
+  \emph{Surge Stopper IC Simplifies Design of Intrinsic Safety Barrier for Electronics Destined for Hazardous Environments}, Linear Technology Magazine September 2009, https://www.analog.com/en/technical-articles/surge-stopper-ic-simplifies-design-of-intrinsic-safety-barrier-for-electronics.html .
+
+\bibitem{EEVBlog}
+  Various,
+  \emph{Electronics Design for Explosive Envirionment}, EEVBlog Forums, https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/electronics-design-for-explosive-environment/?all, http://web.archive.org/web/20190410172437/http://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/electronics-design-for-explosive-environment/?all.
+
+\bibitem{Fuchs}
+  Various,
+  \emph{Explosion Protection and Intrinsic Safety 101}, Pepperl Fuchs, https://www.pepperl-fuchs.com/usa/downloads\_USA/explosion-protection-and-intrinsic-safety-101.pdf, http://web.archive.org/web/20190721221654/https://www.pepperl-fuchs.com/usa/downloads\_USA/explosion-protection-and-intrinsic-safety-101.pdf.
+  \end{thebibliography}
+
+
+
+
+\end{document}
+

FlammableGasSensor/docs/16.toc

@@ -0,0 +1,19 @@
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {1}Overview}{2}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {2}Chip Hunting}{2}
+\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.1}Gas Sensor Tuning}{2}
+\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {2.1.1}Fixed resistors}{3}
+\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {2.1.2}Gas Sensor Power Usage}{3}
+\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {2.1.3}PCB Layout}{3}
+\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.2}Switcher}{3}
+\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {2.3}Enclosure}{3}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {3}CAD Layout}{4}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {4}PCB Assembly}{4}
+\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {4.1}Place Sensors on the Floor}{5}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {5}In Consideration of ``Hazardous Locations''}{5}
+\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.1}What Class is my Company?}{6}
+\contentsline {subsubsection}{\numberline {5.1.1}Encapsulated Fuses}{6}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {6}Existing Gas Detectors}{6}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {7}Switching Power Supply}{6}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {8}Connecting the Sensor by a Wire}{7}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {9}Calibration}{8}
+\contentsline {section}{\numberline {10}References}{8}

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ZMHW_Modector/docs/20.tex

@@ -17,7 +17,10 @@
 
 \textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{
 \section{Overview}}
-Making and deploying a Motion Sensor for Zoneminder CCTV software installations. These sensors use ZMTrigger.pl (wiki.zoneminder.com/ZMTrigger) to activate an alarm on a camera for a period of time. The advantage of hardware motion sensors over the software detection of Zoneminder, is that the hardware motion sensors avoid some of the problems inherent in software detection, such as false positives from day-to-night, bugs, missed detections, and others.
+Making and deploying a Motion Sensor for Zoneminder CCTV software installations. These sensors use ZMTrigger.pl (
+\\
+wiki.zoneminder.com/ZMTrigger
+) to activate an alarm on a camera for a period of time. The advantage of hardware motion sensors over the software detection of Zoneminder, is that the hardware motion sensors avoid some of the problems inherent in software detection, such as false positives from day-to-night, bugs, missed detections, and others.
 
 I've tried different motion sensors. Let's start with the Infrared Laser Diode.
 \textcolor{green!60!blue!70}{

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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {3}Work Log}{3}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {3.1}Sick Motion Sensor}{3}}
+\@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {1}{\ignorespaces Testing the Sick IR Diode Tripwire \relax }}{4}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {3.2}Diode on Output of Sick Sensor instead of Transistor (Hack)}{4}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {3.3}Broken ENC28J60 Module}{5}}
+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {3.4}Installation Log in Pictures}{5}}
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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {section}{\numberline {4}Omrom Photoelectric IR Emitter/Receiver}{8}}
+\@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {7}{\ignorespaces Omrom 'Photoelectric' IR Emitter and Receiver Pair. Notice the two diodes behind the black cover on the right side.\relax }}{9}}
+\@writefile{lof}{\contentsline {figure}{\numberline {8}{\ignorespaces IR in action. (without a reflective sticker, it doesn't go very far!)\relax }}{10}}
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+\@writefile{toc}{\contentsline {subsection}{\numberline {5.1}Uno Memory Limitations}{10}}
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+ 0 named destinations out of 1000 (max. 500000)
+ 46 words of extra memory for PDF output out of 10000 (max. 10000000)
+