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Compilations update.

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\documentclass[11pt]{article}
%Gummi|065|=)
\usepackage{graphicx}
\usepackage{caption}
\title{\textbf{NYNE Bass}}
\author{Steak Electronics}
\date{}
\begin{document}

\maketitle

\tableofcontents

\section{Overview}
User reports Bluetooth speaker is not responding. Unit powers on but is not responsive. No way to connect cell phone to speaker. User says unit was left out in slight rain conditions.

\section{Work Log}

\end{document}


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\documentclass[11pt]{article}
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\usepackage{caption}
\title{\textbf{BatteryMonitorBoard}}
\author{Steak Electronics}
\date{}
\begin{document}

\maketitle

\tableofcontents

\section{Overview}

\section{Chip Hunting}
Need to find a chip for battery charging. Some sheets have been saved. I looked at TI primarily. Though considered one AD/LTC. BQ2954 is out of the question as its too complex in its application circuit. THe BQ2000 is a 8 pin DIP and seems like a good start. That will cover nicad/nimh, and lithium batteries.

Though the BQ2000 is a bit of a mess as well. Data sheet has a complex circuit. There is a simpler one here:
http://www.ti.com/lit/pdf/sluu007
and
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/95970/how-to-use-battery-charge-controller-bq2002n
Regardless of the contents of that post, the fact is, the chip requires a lot of stuff.

https://www.st.com/content/ccc/resource/technical/document/datasheet/df/b9/e6/5b/ec/92/45/ed/CD00132951.pdf/files/CD00132951.pdf/jcr:content/translations/en.CD00132951.pdf
This chip: stc4054, is extremely simple. Limited to 1 lithium cell (so only 4.2 volts max) but application circuit is lean, and it has a shutdown pin, so you can turn off the charger. Price is the cheapest as well, at 1.50 for 1.

That looks hopeful. Why not multiple?
Need to remember to be careful of 4.1 lithium batteries. Most chargers are 4.2, and its easy to forget that there is a difference.

MCP73826 is another reasonable option. Slightly more complex, but not by much.
RT9526A is also simple. Let's start with the st chip.

Looks like the voltage on that pin should be between 1.2 and 2.4 in order to turn it off. Below 1.2 it is on, and monitoring current. Above 1.2 but below 2.4 it is off. above 2.4 it's putting 35ua into the battery. I think.

Also like the LTC1734, which is lithium / nicad. But expensive at 3-4 dollars. Don't see any lead acid battery chargers on digi that aren't being obsoleted. There's not one. I did see some on manufacturer's pages though. Just not here.

There is one microchip one (lead acid) based on a pic. App circuit is complex.
AN1015 is the app note.

So need a lead, and nicd charger still.

Tomorrow I'd like to look at maxim. I see this:

https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/products/power/battery-management/MAX1772.html
But the application circuit is too much for what I want to deal with.
Seems lead acid battery chargers are not as common as they must've been before.

Onsemi is only lithium batteries.

Mouser has only universal chargers, no lead. But universal includes lead.
let's check linear. LT1510 is an 8 pin simple device. Though it's nicad and lithium only. It says it can do lead in table, but not in datasheet.
lt1510 would work for nicad. data sheet figure 6 has a circuit for nicad.

What about lead?
lt1513 does the three main types: nicd,li-ion,lead
At a cost of \$10.
At digi, the bq2031 is the only lead battery chip (not multi type) that is in production. Not much choice. EDIT: actually that is not
recommended for new designs either.

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/mc34063-battery-charger/msg1378671/\#msg1378671
Here he uses a boost regulator to power a battery. Essentially just setting the voltage.
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/switching-lead-acid-battery-charger-ic/msg806972/\#msg806972
Here is some better advice.
quote:
\begin{verbatim}
I'd recommend just float charging. It takes only a little longer
and is easier on the batteries. You will need to limit the initial
charge current to about 0.1 C (so 2 A for a 20 AH battery). The
easiest way to do this is a constant current/ constant voltage
power supply. Set the current limit to the desired charge current,
and the voltage to the float voltage (13.8 V adjusted for
temperature if needed). The voltage on the battery will slowly
increase over time until it reaches ~13.8 V, then the current will
slowly drop over time until it reaches nearly zero. At that point,
the battery is fully charged and you can either remove the charger
or just leave it on.
\end{verbatim}
Which is what I did with my solar battery charger, and it worked well. So I suppose there is no need for anything more than a vreg for lead batteries. This time I will go to the recommended 13.8 instead of what I had before (around 12) and I will do the same trickle charge method. Simple. Done.

May use 1512 instead. \$5 in 150 quantity. Hm...
\$10 in single.
That would cover lead, nicad.
Will need jumpers on R1 and R2 depending on what battery type. According to data sheet, li-ion the divider is a float voltage. In nicd, it is a top limit.

OK, i've decided:

\subsection{Part Selection Summary}

LT1512, and STC4054.
For starters, I will use stc as lithium and lt as nicad / lead.

this will avoid the worry of jumpers, and what not. Later I can be flexible.

Now onto other parts. I need some way to monitor the current, and of course a voltage tap.

Where to put current sense? I think before the battery.

I should put some jumpers in, so I can isolate everything though. I dont' want to mix circuits at the start. So isolate the charger from the op amp and sense, at first.

Let's go with the basic differential op amp in microchip an1332. I need a vreg supply (linear) at 15.5 volts, for the op amp, so it's above the lead battery voltage. Simplest two switchers I see are lm2577 or the mk3608. The mk is easier to use.

With that we have:
\begin{itemize}
\item Battery charger x 2
\item voltage monitor x 2
\item current monitor x 2
\item ethernet (using off the shelf enc modules for now, but maybe
on board later).
\item microcontroller (nano)
\item temperature monitor (something like max6675 looks nice. can put on board, without difficulty).
\item additional taps into adc, and some op amps and current shunts not populated to be used as extra current - voltage converters. At least two. Put on modular schematic.
\end{itemize}
I also want a general current and voltage monitor. I want
to be able to watch the load on a battery, and record that as well...
Perhaps that will be separate. I might want to grab some off the shelf
current / voltage monitoring stuff, or just throw a few op amps with breakouts on the board.

Let's build.

Keep all schematics modular!








\end{document}


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\documentclass[11pt]{article}
%Gummi|065|=)
\usepackage{graphicx}
\usepackage{caption}
\title{\textbf{NYNE Bass}}
\author{Steak Electronics}
\date{}
\begin{document}
\textbf{NYNE Bass Bluetooth Speaker Repair}
%\maketitle

%\tableofcontents

\section{Overview}
User reports Bluetooth speaker is broken. Unit powers on but is not responsive. Power light, will light up but nothing else. Unit was damaged apparently by rain.

\section{Work Log}

\begin{center}
\includegraphics[scale=0.38]{../pics/DSCN0598.JPG}
\end{center}

I dismantled device. You must remove the grate on the speakers to access all screws. I didn't do this at first, and just bashed through a few screw supports. It's OK, this repair is for family, not a stranger.

After opening device, I unscrewed all boards, and connectors.\textbf{ I disconnected battery. After arranging board on table, I reconnected battery, and this seems to have fixed the speaker.} As the battery is internal, it appears that it was necessary to do a full power on/off of the device to get it working. As right after I powered it on, this second time, it made a sound. Before disconnecting the battery, no sound was made when powering (if my memory serves right). I connected aux audio in and it worked. bluetooth also works OK.

Some more waterproofing of the inside of this device is in order here. They market it to outdoor enthusiasts, but it can't handle water.

Capacitors are heating up on this board. There are four 220 caps near the speaker and sub outputs that have heated up. High ESR? I've never seen warm caps before...
(https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/51645/should-electrolytic-capacitors-get-hot – seems to say that caps only heat when current is going through them. So usually, they won't heatup, unless there is some ripple back and forth, alternately draining and powering the cap. These being AC speakers, I suppose that explains it.

\vspace{0.2in}
\emph{
``As a point of general reference, it is possible for an electrolytic capacitor to heat up even during normal operation, if the capacitor is exposed to ripple currents. This is a situation where the capacitor is rapidly charged and discharged, either partially or completely. For example, on the output of a rectifier, or in a switching power supply. Electrolytic capacitors have ripple current specs for just this reason.''}

\begin{center}
\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN0605.JPG}
\captionof{figure}{main board, note the rf module. The wire going off picture is for the 18650 Lithium Cells.}
\end{center}

Cap brands on this board, are questionable. I would not shell out the \$150 this device demands new if they are going to stock no-name caps on the board. Looking up Honcon now...(https://www.gmdu.net/corp-664938.html) Seems to be a small Hong Kong factory. Not giving me confidence about this speaker.

The sound quality is sub-par. I have a Bose Cinemate (original) next to me that I repaired this same week. That has a decent sound (although to be fair the price is a difference of 8:1 between the Bose and Nyne).

The quick user guide is 15MB. The datasheet is 1MB. Ha.
Data sheet is a f'ing ad. Not a data sheet at all. What an insult.
The quick start is the actual user manual. There is no real user manual. Oh, but there's a brochure. Shows up on bluetooth as NYNE Bass.

Some more pictures of the chips and I'm returning this back to the user. Simple fix.


\begin{center}
\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN0597.JPG}
\captionof{figure}{Imagine working your way to Silicon Valley just to design a bluetooth speaker.}
\end{center}

\end{document}


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\section{Overview}
User reports Bluetooth speaker is not responding. Unit powers on but is not responsive. No way to connect cell phone to speaker. User says unit was left out in slight rain conditions.

\section{Work Log}

\end{document}


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\documentclass[11pt]{article}
%Gummi|065|=)
\usepackage{graphicx}
\usepackage{caption}
\title{\textbf{NYNE Bass}}
\author{Steak Electronics}
\date{}
\begin{document}
\textbf{NYNE Bass Bluetooth Speaker Repair}
%\maketitle

%\tableofcontents

\section{Overview}
User reports Bluetooth speaker is broken. Unit powers on but is not responsive. Power light, will light up but nothing else. Unit was damaged apparently by rain.

\section{Work Log}

\begin{center}
\includegraphics[scale=0.38]{../pics/DSCN0598.JPG}
\end{center}

I dismantled device. You must remove the grate on the speakers to access all screws. I didn't do this at first, and just bashed through a few screw supports. It's OK, this repair is for family, not a stranger.

After opening device, I unscrewed all boards, and connectors.\textbf{ I disconnected battery. After arranging board on table, I reconnected battery, and this seems to have fixed the speaker.} As the battery is internal, it appears that it was necessary to do a full power on/off of the device to get it working. As right after I powered it on, this second time, it made a sound. Before disconnecting the battery, no sound was made when powering (if my memory serves right). I connected aux audio in and it worked. bluetooth also works OK.

Some more waterproofing of the inside of this device is in order here. They market it to outdoor enthusiasts, but it can't handle water.

Capacitors are heating up on this board. There are four 220 caps near the speaker and sub outputs that have heated up. High ESR? I've never seen warm caps before...
(https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/51645/should-electrolytic-capacitors-get-hot – seems to say that caps only heat when current is going through them. So usually, they won't heatup, unless there is some ripple back and forth, alternately draining and powering the cap. These being AC speakers, I suppose that explains it.

\vspace{0.2in}
\emph{
``As a point of general reference, it is possible for an electrolytic capacitor to heat up even during normal operation, if the capacitor is exposed to ripple currents. This is a situation where the capacitor is rapidly charged and discharged, either partially or completely. For example, on the output of a rectifier, or in a switching power supply. Electrolytic capacitors have ripple current specs for just this reason.''}

\begin{center}
\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN0605.JPG}
\captionof{figure}{main board, note the rf module. The wire going off picture is for the 18650 Lithium Cells.}
\end{center}

Cap brands on this board, are questionable. I would not shell out the \$150 this device demands new if they are going to stock no-name caps on the board. Looking up Honcon now...(https://www.gmdu.net/corp-664938.html) Seems to be a small Hong Kong factory. Not giving me confidence about this speaker.

The sound quality is sub-par. I have a Bose Cinemate (original) next to me that I repaired this same week. That has a decent sound (although to be fair the price is a difference of 8:1 between the Bose and Nyne).

The quick user guide is 15MB. The datasheet is 1MB. Ha.
Data sheet is a f'ing ad. Not a data sheet at all. What an insult.
The quick start is the actual user manual. There is no real user manual. Oh, but there's a brochure. Shows up on bluetooth as NYNE Bass.

Some more pictures of the chips and I'm returning this back to the user. Simple fix.


\begin{center}
\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN0597.JPG}
\captionof{figure}{Imagine working your way to Silicon Valley just to design a bluetooth speaker.}
\end{center}

\end{document}


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\documentclass[11pt]{article}
%Gummi|065|=)
\usepackage{graphicx}
\usepackage{caption}
\title{\textbf{Weller WSD51 Repair}}
\author{Steak Electronics}
\date{}
\begin{document}

\textbf{Weller WSD51 Repair}
%\maketitle

%\tableofcontents

\section{Overview}
I purchased a Weller WSD51 from Newark, and after about 8-9 months, it started displaying a temperature from 888-902 on its screen. It would not heat up. I contacted Newark whom said to contact weller. I contacted Weller via phone on the Apex tools webpage (I tried the web contact form on the weller site but never received a response)\footnote{EDIT: Eventually I did receive a response, but it was faster to call in.} The secretary was kind and sent me a UPS shipping label since the device was under warranty. I shipped the iron, with all original items, and a receipt from Newark in the box, and waited for the response.
\section{Work Log}
Before shipping, I read online (Guido, creator of Arduino ENC28J60 TCP/IP library and gnulinux user) that an 888 flashing error was solvable by adding another capacitor to the inside of the board. I tried this without success. In retrospect, his error was different than mine. I didn't have flashing, and my temperature changed between 888 and 902. I also checked the resistance on the iron and didn't get the values I expected, but didn't pursue further. It's under warranty – they should fix it.

\begin{center}
\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN0517.JPG}
\captionof{figure}{The board is a large power transistor with a Pic to control it. Here I added a capacitor per some online guides, but no dice. It turned out to be a failed iron.}
\end{center}

\section{Conclusion}
Weller has replaced and repaired the iron. I'm out of Warranty as of Dec. so I will avoid twirling the Iron like I used to when changing tips (spinning it to unscrew). I'm not sure if this is the cause, but just to be safe.

The temperature sensor on the end of irons is just a wire, and susceptible to breaking if not handled carefully. You can see it when changing tips.

They did end up getting back to me per my email, though took a few weeks. Contact by phone was faster. By the time they emailed me, they were able to confirm it was being sent to me via post.

It's a new iron, but I haven't checked to see if they replaced the base model. The small tip on the iron seems to move more than before (slight movement when pressing onto components, which I don't recall from before), I wonder if these were reject models. Anyhow, I've recently learned how to do SMD soldering with a toaster, so I don't see much of a need for the small tip, as it were. A new tip may also fix this.

Overall, pleased but if the iron breaks again...

One other note, When you are changing tips, you can see that there is a wire at the end of the iron. This wire is likely to be fragile when hot, so changing tips should not be done until the iron has cooled a reasonable amount. If you accidentally hit the wire enough, you could likely bend or break it...

\begin{center}
\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN0518.JPG}
%\captionof{figure}{Front of the base station.}
\end{center}

\end{document}


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\documentclass[11pt]{article}
%Gummi|065|=)
\usepackage{graphicx}
\usepackage{caption}
\title{\textbf{BatteryMonitorBoard}}
\author{Steak Electronics}
\date{}
\begin{document}

\maketitle

\tableofcontents

\section{Overview}

\section{Chip Hunting}
Need to find a chip for battery charging. Some sheets have been saved. I looked at TI primarily. Though considered one AD/LTC. BQ2954 is out of the question as its too complex in its application circuit. THe BQ2000 is a 8 pin DIP and seems like a good start. That will cover nicad/nimh, and lithium batteries.

Though the BQ2000 is a bit of a mess as well. Data sheet has a complex circuit. There is a simpler one here:
http://www.ti.com/lit/pdf/sluu007
and
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/95970/how-to-use-battery-charge-controller-bq2002n
Regardless of the contents of that post, the fact is, the chip requires a lot of stuff.

https://www.st.com/content/ccc/resource/technical/document/datasheet/df/b9/e6/5b/ec/92/45/ed/CD00132951.pdf/files/CD00132951.pdf/jcr:content/translations/en.CD00132951.pdf
This chip: stc4054, is extremely simple. Limited to 1 lithium cell (so only 4.2 volts max) but application circuit is lean, and it has a shutdown pin, so you can turn off the charger. Price is the cheapest as well, at 1.50 for 1.

That looks hopeful. Why not multiple?
Need to remember to be careful of 4.1 lithium batteries. Most chargers are 4.2, and its easy to forget that there is a difference.

MCP73826 is another reasonable option. Slightly more complex, but not by much.
RT9526A is also simple. Let's start with the st chip.

Looks like the voltage on that pin should be between 1.2 and 2.4 in order to turn it off. Below 1.2 it is on, and monitoring current. Above 1.2 but below 2.4 it is off. above 2.4 it's putting 35ua into the battery. I think.

Also like the LTC1734, which is lithium / nicad. But expensive at 3-4 dollars. Don't see any lead acid battery chargers on digi that aren't being obsoleted. There's not one. I did see some on manufacturer's pages though. Just not here.

There is one microchip one (lead acid) based on a pic. App circuit is complex.
AN1015 is the app note.

So need a lead, and nicd charger still.

Tomorrow I'd like to look at maxim. I see this:

https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/products/power/battery-management/MAX1772.html
But the application circuit is too much for what I want to deal with.
Seems lead acid battery chargers are not as common as they must've been before.

Onsemi is only lithium batteries.

Mouser has only universal chargers, no lead. But universal includes lead.
let's check linear. LT1510 is an 8 pin simple device. Though it's nicad and lithium only. It says it can do lead in table, but not in datasheet.
lt1510 would work for nicad. data sheet figure 6 has a circuit for nicad.

What about lead?
lt1513 does the three main types: nicd,li-ion,lead
At a cost of \$10.
At digi, the bq2031 is the only lead battery chip (not multi type) that is in production. Not much choice. EDIT: actually that is not
recommended for new designs either.

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/mc34063-battery-charger/msg1378671/\#msg1378671
Here he uses a boost regulator to power a battery. Essentially just setting the voltage.
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/switching-lead-acid-battery-charger-ic/msg806972/\#msg806972
Here is some better advice.
quote:
\begin{verbatim}
I'd recommend just float charging. It takes only a little longer
and is easier on the batteries. You will need to limit the initial
charge current to about 0.1 C (so 2 A for a 20 AH battery). The
easiest way to do this is a constant current/ constant voltage
power supply. Set the current limit to the desired charge current,
and the voltage to the float voltage (13.8 V adjusted for
temperature if needed). The voltage on the battery will slowly
increase over time until it reaches ~13.8 V, then the current will
slowly drop over time until it reaches nearly zero. At that point,
the battery is fully charged and you can either remove the charger
or just leave it on.
\end{verbatim}
Which is what I did with my solar battery charger, and it worked well. So I suppose there is no need for anything more than a vreg for lead batteries. This time I will go to the recommended 13.8 instead of what I had before (around 12) and I will do the same trickle charge method. Simple. Done.

May use 1512 instead. \$5 in 150 quantity. Hm...
\$10 in single.
That would cover lead, nicad.
Will need jumpers on R1 and R2 depending on what battery type. According to data sheet, li-ion the divider is a float voltage. In nicd, it is a top limit.

OK, i've decided:

\subsection{Part Selection Summary}

LT1512, and STC4054.
For starters, I will use stc as lithium and lt as nicad / lead.

this will avoid the worry of jumpers, and what not. Later I can be flexible.

Now onto other parts. I need some way to monitor the current, and of course a voltage tap.

Where to put current sense? I think before the battery.

I should put some jumpers in, so I can isolate everything though. I dont' want to mix circuits at the start. So isolate the charger from the op amp and sense, at first.

Let's go with the basic differential op amp in microchip an1332. I need a vreg supply (linear) at 15.5 volts, for the op amp, so it's above the lead battery voltage. Simplest two switchers I see are lm2577 or the mk3608. The mk is easier to use.

With that we have:
\begin{itemize}
\item Battery charger x 2
\item voltage monitor x 2
\item current monitor x 2
\item ethernet (using off the shelf enc modules for now, but maybe
on board later).
\item microcontroller (nano)
\item temperature monitor (something like max6675 looks nice. can put on board, without difficulty).
\item additional taps into adc, and some op amps and current shunts not populated to be used as extra current - voltage converters. At least two. Put on modular schematic.
\end{itemize}
I also want a general current and voltage monitor. I want
to be able to watch the load on a battery, and record that as well...
Perhaps that will be separate. I might want to grab some off the shelf
current / voltage monitoring stuff, or just throw a few op amps with breakouts on the board.

Let's build.

Keep all schematics modular!








\end{document}


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\documentclass[11pt]{article}
%Gummi|065|=)
\usepackage{graphicx}
\usepackage{caption}
\title{\textbf{Weller WSD51 Repair}}
\author{Steak Electronics}
\date{}
\begin{document}

\textbf{Weller WSD51 Repair}
%\maketitle

%\tableofcontents

\section{Overview}
I purchased a Weller WSD51 from Newark, and after about 8-9 months, it started displaying a temperature from 888-902 on its screen. It would not heat up. I contacted Newark whom said to contact weller. I contacted Weller via phone on the Apex tools webpage (I tried the web contact form on the weller site but never received a response)\footnote{EDIT: Eventually I did receive a response, but it was faster to call in.} The secretary was kind and sent me a UPS shipping label since the device was under warranty. I shipped the iron, with all original items, and a receipt from Newark in the box, and waited for the response.
\section{Work Log}
Before shipping, I read online (Guido, creator of Arduino ENC28J60 TCP/IP library and gnulinux user) that an 888 flashing error was solvable by adding another capacitor to the inside of the board. I tried this without success. In retrospect, his error was different than mine. I didn't have flashing, and my temperature changed between 888 and 902. I also checked the resistance on the iron and didn't get the values I expected, but didn't pursue further. It's under warranty – they should fix it.

\begin{center}
\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN0517.JPG}
\captionof{figure}{The board is a large power transistor with a Pic to control it. Here I added a capacitor per some online guides, but no dice. It turned out to be a failed iron.}
\end{center}

\section{Conclusion}
Weller has replaced and repaired the iron. I'm out of Warranty as of Dec. so I will avoid twirling the Iron like I used to when changing tips (spinning it to unscrew). I'm not sure if this is the cause, but just to be safe.

The temperature sensor on the end of irons is just a wire, and susceptible to breaking if not handled carefully. You can see it when changing tips.

They did end up getting back to me per my email, though took a few weeks. Contact by phone was faster. By the time they emailed me, they were able to confirm it was being sent to me via post.

It's a new iron, but I haven't checked to see if they replaced the base model. The small tip on the iron seems to move more than before (slight movement when pressing onto components, which I don't recall from before), I wonder if these were reject models. Anyhow, I've recently learned how to do SMD soldering with a toaster, so I don't see much of a need for the small tip, as it were. A new tip may also fix this.

Overall, pleased but if the iron breaks again...

One other note, When you are changing tips, you can see that there is a wire at the end of the iron. This wire is likely to be fragile when hot, so changing tips should not be done until the iron has cooled a reasonable amount. If you accidentally hit the wire enough, you could likely bend or break it...

\begin{center}
\includegraphics[scale=0.3]{../pics/DSCN0518.JPG}
%\captionof{figure}{Front of the base station.}
\end{center}

\end{document}


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\documentclass[11pt]{article}
%Gummi|065|=)
\usepackage{graphicx}
\usepackage{caption}
\title{\textbf{Bose Cinemate (Original) \\Repair}}
\author{Steak Electronics}
\date{}
\begin{document}
%\twocolumn
%\maketitle
\textbf{Bose Cinemate (Original) Repair}
%\tableofcontents

\section{Overview}
Find out why Bose speakers don't work. User reports possible lightning surge caused damage to device.
\section{Work Log}
No visible damage inside.
Power rails are all clean. Transformer outputs 22V AC. There is a switcher and a linear LDO Vreg both inside a can on the main board powering the ADSP (analog devices, in Woburn here) chip.
The clock is OK. CLKIN and XTAL both have 33.33MHz clocks. No visible CLKOUT found.
The board is reading external flash at boot, possibly, due to the appearance of such a chip. Checking pins of BMS and BSEL per ADSP data sheet... BMS is high, and BSEL is low, which means in data sheet... When BSEL is low, BMS and BSEL determine input. This appears to mean that BMS is an output, and its reading from external memory.
There is a JTAG on the bottom of the board. I don't have the appropriate reader.
There is a necessary delay after powering off the board, you have to wait for the caps to discharge, before powering back on. I found this by watching the Output enable pin of the flash on the scope (which seems to be working and apparently the flash is being read at bootup by the ADSP CPU). If you unplug power, and don't wait for the power to drop (about 5-10 seconds) it will not fully restart. The online docs say to wait one minute, hehe. That's why.
\begin{center}
\includegraphics[scale=0.2]{../pics/DSCN0558.JPG}
\captionof{figure}{Main Board. CPU / ADC is under shield.}
\end{center}
Pin DQ0 on the flash is constantly changing, in a set pattern. Perhaps flash is being accessed regularly?
G (bus read) is normally high, but low during periods at boot. Based on data sheet, G is high and W down, when writes occur, separately G is down when reads occur. Write is pin 11. Write is normally high, and goes down briefly during boot up sequence (much less than the G pin). Based on all this, I suspect the flash is operating OK, without checking jtag.

\begin{center}
\includegraphics[scale=0.4]{../pics/DSCN0559.JPG}
\captionof{figure}{Main CPU board under can. Starting from 12 o'clock going clockwise, Linear and Switching power regulator, Flash, RAM, ADSP CPU (SHARC), ADC (under blue).}
\end{center}

Checked the Remote control by viewing it via a digital camera. It is working.

Checking the user manual. No information of any real substance.
Checking the service manual. I found a similar model (not exactly the same). Let's see. Can't find the exact service model for this model. Service manual not available.
Facing the connector for the IR remote box, the ramps up, female side, the last two pins are audio in.
The green LED is the third on the top row.
IDC connector, looking at bottom, 2nd on top row is green led.
Two series caps at the power, connector, breakout board (with two DB-9 connectors), is the audio coupling between the RCA connectors of the IR remote box, and the rest of the board.
Looking at .1” ribbon cable, nub on the bottom, the 3rd from last column (top) is one audio connector, other is 2nd column from last, bottom. On the controller board, beneath the metal case, the two audio signals are fed into resistor dividers, one for each signal. From there they go (see picture) . From there the audio signal goes into that mysterious package, that has no label on it. Probably some ADC. EDIT: I can barely make out it is a Cirrus Logic chip. CS422BA
CS4228A
One of the pins on the ADC is going up and down. Connected to pin 4 of DSP (not adc).
That's serial clk (pin 5 adc). Very slow. Pin 4 of DSP is: RCLK0
RCLK is the serial receive clock.
The master clock is an input, PIN 10. It looks like the clock is not there. Data sheet says it must be between 4kHz to 24kHz, about. And the clock signal on Pin 10, is absent. It's like 2 Hz, or something slow. I'm going to trace where the master clock for the ADC comes from. It comes from around 25 or so on the DSP. I marked the DSP. I counted about 26, give or take one. Let's count again. I counted 25 this time. It looks like it goes to ground...? It's the one before ground. I realized I could just count down from continuity from ground. So it's PWM\_Event1. Let's boot up the device and see if it ever activates this PWM. It may be that the ADC is fine, and something else is broken. It looks like the ADC communicates with its CLOCK and the DSP during boot up, but goes into a sleep mode. I think it's something else.

Something with the infrared diode... I should also check that the infrared diode receiver recognizes the controller button presses.
I tested the remote, and the receiver. I can see output on the remote, but do not see any on the diode receiver. I'm going to do some research on what the waveform should be.

\begin{center}
\includegraphics[scale=0.7]{../pics/DSCN0577.JPG}
\captionof{figure}{Audio In Path}
\end{center}

Looks like there is no waveform. I will buy a new receiver diode, and if that doesn't fix it, I give up.

\subsection{Work Log 10/18}
Diode fixed it. 38KHz model from Radio Shack. Pinout was identical. There is a youtube video online that covers this repair also.

\begin{center}
\includegraphics[scale=0.28]{../pics/DSCN0579.JPG}
\captionof{figure}{ADC with logo visible: CS4228A }
\end{center}
\begin{center}
\includegraphics[scale=0.28]{../pics/DSCN0575.JPG}
\captionof{figure}{IR is normally invisible, however my digital camera picks it up. A Quick way to test IR is to take a picture. Alternatively, you can probe the diode leads with an oscilloscope.}
\end{center}
\footnote{An exception would be IR that is borderline visible spectrum as in some CCTV cameras. These give away the cameras position, but serve as a healthy reminder not to stare at the IR leds when you see the dim red light.}



\end{document}


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\documentclass[11pt]{article}
%Gummi|065|=)
\usepackage{graphicx}
\usepackage{caption}
\title{\textbf{BatteryMonitorBoard}}
\author{Steak Electronics}
\date{}
\begin{document}

\maketitle

\tableofcontents

\section{Overview}

\section{Chip Hunting}
Need to find a chip for battery charging. Some sheets have been saved. I looked at TI primarily. Though considered one AD/LTC. BQ2954 is out of the question as its too complex in its application circuit. THe BQ2000 is a 8 pin DIP and seems like a good start. That will cover nicad/nimh, and lithium batteries.

Though the BQ2000 is a bit of a mess as well. Data sheet has a complex circuit. There is a simpler one here:
http://www.ti.com/lit/pdf/sluu007
and
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/95970/how-to-use-battery-charge-controller-bq2002n
Regardless of the contents of that post, the fact is, the chip requires a lot of stuff.

https://www.st.com/content/ccc/resource/technical/document/datasheet/df/b9/e6/5b/ec/92/45/ed/CD00132951.pdf/files/CD00132951.pdf/jcr:content/translations/en.CD00132951.pdf
This chip: stc4054, is extremely simple. Limited to 1 lithium cell (so only 4.2 volts max) but application circuit is lean, and it has a shutdown pin, so you can turn off the charger. Price is the cheapest as well, at 1.50 for 1.

That looks hopeful. Why not multiple?
Need to remember to be careful of 4.1 lithium batteries. Most chargers are 4.2, and its easy to forget that there is a difference.

MCP73826 is another reasonable option. Slightly more complex, but not by much.
RT9526A is also simple. Let's start with the st chip.

Looks like the voltage on that pin should be between 1.2 and 2.4 in order to turn it off. Below 1.2 it is on, and monitoring current. Above 1.2 but below 2.4 it is off. above 2.4 it's putting 35ua into the battery. I think.

Also like the LTC1734, which is lithium / nicad. But expensive at 3-4 dollars. Don't see any lead acid battery chargers on digi that aren't being obsoleted. There's not one. I did see some on manufacturer's pages though. Just not here.

There is one microchip one (lead acid) based on a pic. App circuit is complex.
AN1015 is the app note.

So need a lead, and nicd charger still.

Tomorrow I'd like to look at maxim. I see this:

https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/products/power/battery-management/MAX1772.html
But the application circuit is too much for what I want to deal with.
Seems lead acid battery chargers are not as common as they must've been before.

Onsemi is only lithium batteries.

Mouser has only universal chargers, no lead. But universal includes lead.
let's check linear. LT1510 is an 8 pin simple device. Though it's nicad and lithium only. It says it can do lead in table, but not in datasheet.
lt1510 would work for nicad. data sheet figure 6 has a circuit for nicad.

What about lead?
lt1513 does the three main types: nicd,li-ion,lead
At a cost of \$10.
At digi, the bq2031 is the only lead battery chip (not multi type) that is in production. Not much choice. EDIT: actually that is not
recommended for new designs either.

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/mc34063-battery-charger/msg1378671/\#msg1378671
Here he uses a boost regulator to power a battery. Essentially just setting the voltage.
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/switching-lead-acid-battery-charger-ic/msg806972/\#msg806972
Here is some better advice.
quote:
\begin{verbatim}
I'd recommend just float charging. It takes only a little longer
and is easier on the batteries. You will need to limit the initial
charge current to about 0.1 C (so 2 A for a 20 AH battery). The
easiest way to do this is a constant current/ constant voltage
power supply. Set the current limit to the desired charge current,
and the voltage to the float voltage (13.8 V adjusted for
temperature if needed). The voltage on the battery will slowly
increase over time until it reaches ~13.8 V, then the current will
slowly drop over time until it reaches nearly zero. At that point,
the battery is fully charged and you can either remove the charger
or just leave it on.
\end{verbatim}
Which is what I did with my solar battery charger, and it worked well. So I suppose there is no need for anything more than a vreg for lead batteries. This time I will go to the recommended 13.8 instead of what I had before (around 12) and I will do the same trickle charge method. Simple. Done.

May use 1512 instead. \$5 in 150 quantity. Hm...
\$10 in single.
That would cover lead, nicad.
Will need jumpers on R1 and R2 depending on what battery type. According to data sheet, li-ion the divider is a float voltage. In nicd, it is a top limit.

OK, i've decided:

\subsection{Part Selection Summary}

LT1512, and STC4054.
For starters, I will use stc as lithium and lt as nicad / lead.

this will avoid the worry of jumpers, and what not. Later I can be flexible.

Now onto other parts. I need some way to monitor the current, and of course a voltage tap.

Where to put current sense? I think before the battery.

I should put some jumpers in, so I can isolate everything though. I dont' want to mix circuits at the start. So isolate the charger from the op amp and sense, at first.

Let's go with the basic differential op amp in microchip an1332. I need a vreg supply (linear) at 15.5 volts, for the op amp, so it's above the lead battery voltage. Simplest two switchers I see are lm2577 or the mk3608. The mk is easier to use.

With that we have:
\begin{itemize}
\item Battery charger x 2
\item voltage monitor x 2
\item current monitor x 2
\item ethernet (using off the shelf enc modules for now, but maybe
on board later).
\item microcontroller (nano)
\item temperature monitor (something like max6675 looks nice. can put on board, without difficulty).
\item additional taps into adc, and some op amps and current shunts not populated to be used as extra current - voltage converters. At least two. Put on modular schematic.
\end{itemize}
I also want a general current and voltage monitor. I want
to be able to watch the load on a battery, and record that as well...
Perhaps that will be separate. I might want to grab some off the shelf
current / voltage monitoring stuff, or just throw a few op amps with breakouts on the board.

Let's build.

Keep all schematics modular!